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Old 06-11-2016, 09:53 AM   #113
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You don't have to have a degree in metallurgical engineering to realize bear metal rubbing against similar bear metal substantially increases wear.
You mean like when 23K is pushing and pulling on the pin?
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Old 06-11-2016, 02:08 PM   #114
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You don't have to have a degree in metallurgical engineering to realize bear metal rubbing against similar bear metal substantially increases wear.

Right? It seems like people are being misinformed about where to grease their kingpin and fifth wheel components. It is almost as if they're being told that if you use a lube plate, you don't need grease anywhere.
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Old 06-12-2016, 03:03 AM   #115
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You don't have to have a degree in metallurgical engineering to realize bear metal rubbing against similar bear metal substantially increases wear.
Nope but I have been know to Magnaflux a few pieces looking for cracks.
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Old 06-13-2016, 02:33 AM   #116
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According to tables, the co-efficient of friction between two steel surfaces non- lubricated to lubricated is .65 and .16 respectively.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:09 AM   #117
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You don't have to have a degree in metallurgical engineering to realize bear metal rubbing against similar bear metal substantially increases wear.
I prefer honey on bear metal.... however I use grease oh my kingpin and on other bare metal. 😆
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:27 AM   #118
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I prefer honey on bear metal.... however I use grease oh my kingpin and on other bare metal. 😆

Wow. 😆😂
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:52 PM   #119
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Scary situation you had and hopefully helps others to avoid similar. I do agree with cummins re the b&w puck hitches...comparing the b&w side by side to any curt or Reese hitch, I am honestly amazed anyone would choose the latter(s). The b&w appears to be built much beefier and solidly. No slip whatsoever, no noise, no color coding etc.

I have only towed mine 8000 miles which is nothing compared to a lot of you here, but I cannot see how a b&w can be high hitched or not locked in as long as you look at the jaws around the kingpin and the bar locks in?? To me, it appears to be a perfect example of a simple, hd non cushioned hitch and can't see how it could be made any better (aside from air ride, etc)?
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:35 AM   #120
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Scary situation you had and hopefully helps others to avoid similar. I do agree with cummins re the b&w puck hitches...comparing the b&w side by side to any curt or Reese hitch, I am honestly amazed anyone would choose the latter(s). The b&w appears to be built much beefier and solidly. No slip whatsoever, no noise, no color coding etc.

I have only towed mine 8000 miles which is nothing compared to a lot of you here, but I cannot see how a b&w can be high hitched or not locked in as long as you look at the jaws around the kingpin and the bar locks in?? To me, it appears to be a perfect example of a simple, hd non cushioned hitch and can't see how it could be made any better (aside from air ride, etc)?
Better be careful you are sounding like me and soon you too will be called a "FanBoy" !!!

"I" never do a pull test. Use your eves as a test.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:42 AM   #121
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Even with the B&W I still do a pull test. There are a bunch of old habits from my commercial days that I still adhere too.
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:43 AM   #122
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I do a pull test with my B&W... quick and easy double check after my visual.... and I am new to this 5er thing!
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:49 PM   #123
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I prefer honey on bear metal.... however I use grease oh my kingpin and on other bare metal. 😆
The hitch (metal) bearing weight increases friction and wear (or is it ware) . If you mean it anyway other than a funny, bite my azz.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:53 PM   #124
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Lol.... just being a smart azz... It's what I do
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:21 PM   #125
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Lol.... just being a smart azz... It's what I do

I got a kick out of it.

Now back to rippin on Reese hitches for not being B&W!
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:35 PM   #126
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I know very little about fifth wheel hitches and kingpins, however, I do know that metal just can't go past metal without damage.

Since there was no damage to the either mechanism, I would have to be Columbo and say that the locking jaws DID NOT lock around the kingpin 100% in place and remained open mouthed, even with the locking pin in place.

When you were doing you u-turn, the trailer lifted backwards with enough force and came out of the hitch open jaw so to speak, and slammed down on your truck.

That can be the only way, the two mechanisms would have departed with zero or little damage if the locking pin was still intact.

Is it possible that the jaws remained open or partially openend, even with the lock pin enabled??

And finally, if there was any fifth wheel hitch that I would buy it would be the Andersen 5th wheel hitch (was buying a 5th wheel and then changed to a TT). I researched a long time and found that to be the most impressive IMHO.
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