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Old 03-14-2015, 02:52 PM   #1
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Shank Length

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4. The top of the receiver tube is 22 7/8 from the ground. The trailer i'm buying is a Creekside 23BHS that i don't have yet but is on order. I'm in the process of buying an equalizer hitch setup with sway control and I need to know what length shank will I need to get the right drop for the trailer. Since I don't have the trailer yet i'm not sure the height on the trailer hitch when trailer is level. Any help on this would be most appreciated.
Thanks
Craig Smith

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel
Soon to have Creekside 23 BHS
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Old 03-15-2015, 07:42 AM   #2
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Equal-I-Zer has a little calculator for shank size at their web site:
Shank Sizes

No idea how well it works though.
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:18 AM   #3
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Thanks, I'll give that a try.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:13 AM   #4
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You could also go to your dealers lot and measure one of the in-stock trailers.
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Old 03-15-2015, 12:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rammin View Post
The top of the receiver tube is 22 7/8 from the ground.... I'm in the process of buying an equalizer hitch setup with sway control and I need to know what length shank will I need to get the right drop for the trailer.
Equal-I-Zer brand weight-distributing hitches come with an adjustable shank. You'll probably need 6" to 8" drop to have a level trailer, front to rear. If the stock Equal-I-Ze adjustable shank does not adjust to that much drop, then you'll need to work with Equal-I-Zer to find an adjustable shank that will both work with your hitch, and offer enough drop to have a level trailer when wet and loaded on the road.

DO NOT attempt to tow a TT that is high in the front when wet and loaded for the road. That's an unsafe combination

You cannot simply buy a weight-carrying shank (ball mount) with a 6" or 8" drop. You must have an adjustable shank that will bolt onto the head of your weight-distributing hitch.

If your hitch is some other brand, then you may be able to buy an adjustable shank with more drop for that hitch head. For example, here's a link to a Reese adjustable shank that's close to what you need. (I don't know if that shank will work with an Equal-I-Zer brand hitch).
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...se/RP3344.html

Note the poorly worded description: "Shank offers an 8-5/8" drop when used with round-bar systems and a 7-5/8" drop when used with trunnion-bar models. That should read "Shank offers UP TO" that amount of drop. The shank is adjustable, so you can use the holes that result in a 5" or 6" drop if that's what you need.
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:19 PM   #6
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Smokey,

Enlighten us as to why on your statement above please....

"DO NOT attempt to tow a TT that is high in the front when wet and loaded for the road. That's an unsafe combination"
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:09 AM   #7
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Smokey,

Enlighten us as to why on your statement above please....

"DO NOT attempt to tow a TT that is high in the front when wet and loaded for the road. That's an unsafe combination"
Any trailer should be level front to rear when towing. If you slam on the brakes in an emergency, a high tongue will lift the rear end of the tow vehicle off the ground just enough to cause you to lose control of the tow vehicle. That can happen before the trailer brakes have time to engage, regardless of what kind of trailer brake controller you have. A low tongue will unload the front suspension when you slam on the brakes, but most decent drivers can maintain control of the tow vehicle if they have at least some steering capability. So a low tongue is not as dangerous as a high tongue.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:40 AM   #8
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Also consider the amount of load the rear axle and tires carry when the trailer is not level. I blew this off on a trailer 2 years ago and was shocked how quickly the tires were worn compared to the lifted axle.

I am continously amazed how often folk trailer unlevel trailers.

Another manifestation of an unlevel trailer I experienced last year was that when leaving a gas station that had a slope entering the road the skid bars in the rear of the trailer bent (saved the bumper ;-) ). I think my keystone is unusually close to the ground at 16" frame to ground
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeyWren View Post
Equal-I-Zer brand weight-distributing hitches come with an adjustable shank. You'll probably need 6" to 8" drop to have a level trailer, front to rear. If the stock Equal-I-Ze adjustable shank does not adjust to that much drop, then you'll need to work with Equal-I-Zer to find an adjustable shank that will both work with your hitch, and offer enough drop to have a level trailer when wet and loaded on the road.

DO NOT attempt to tow a TT that is high in the front when wet and loaded for the road. That's an unsafe combination

You cannot simply buy a weight-carrying shank (ball mount) with a 6" or 8" drop. You must have an adjustable shank that will bolt onto the head of your weight-distributing hitch.

If your hitch is some other brand, then you may be able to buy an adjustable shank with more drop for that hitch head. For example, here's a link to a Reese adjustable shank that's close to what you need. (I don't know if that shank will work with an Equal-I-Zer brand hitch).
Reese Weight Dist Shank - Drop Only - 11" Long - 7-5/8", 8-5/8" Drop - 1,400 lbs TW Reese Accessories and Parts RP3344

Note the poorly worded description: "Shank offers an 8-5/8" drop when used with round-bar systems and a 7-5/8" drop when used with trunnion-bar models. That should read "Shank offers UP TO" that amount of drop. The shank is adjustable, so you can use the holes that result in a 5" or 6" drop if that's what you need.
Thanks for the information, I will measure the tongue height at the dealer and use equalizers calculator.
Craig
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