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Old 11-06-2011, 01:08 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by JIMNLIN View Post
Hmmm, I had a '01 2500 Dodge/Cummins quad cab short bed with a 16k Reese manual slider. It towed a 1994 27' 5er and my present 28' 5er with no problems. My current 2500 Dodge/Cummins short bed is 3" shorter and still no issues with the 28 footer.

IMO you need to contact the hitch maker and listen to them.
Thats good to know but my only concern is that I plan on towing a trailer about 10' longer. I'm understanding that the longer the trailer, the more likely there could be contact because of the delayed trailer action during turning. NO?
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:58 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by toadswife View Post
Take a look at the Reese Revolution, we ordered it on our 5th wheel for use on a short bed Tundra. With that system, a sidewinder system is not needed...atleast according to Reese and 2 hitch dealers. We are still waiting for our 5th wheel to come in and confirm all will work.
The Reese Revolution is functionally the same as the Reese Sidewinder. They both use a Wedge to change the pivot point. In the post above where I called mine a Sidewinder, it was actually a Revolution. Most people don't know what a Revolution is so I called it a Sidewinder. I personally didn't like the hook up issue. But let me be clear, it works well once you're hooked up. With some practice you can make these pin boxes work for you. Again, I didn't like it but there are lots of people out there with these pin boxes who make it work for them.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:11 AM   #17
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There are exceptions to every rule, but as a rule you won't have any problem with trailer to cab contact with a shorty pickup as long as you are going forward. Assuming your hitch is installed in the bed so the kingpin is directly over the centerline of the rear axle, you don't need anything wierd for hitch or pinbox if you never put the shorty into reverse. But the instant you start backing up, the angles can jacknife in an instant and you get a CRUNCH!!!

In my case, I would never own a shorty pickup dragging a 5er without a SuperGlide hitch. It's just too easy to forget to slide the hitch before you put the truck into reverse, and the result is that crunch mentioned above. Fixing one crunch will pay for the SuperGlide hitch.
PullRite has a SAFER, STRONGER, BETTER designed hitch for you
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:33 AM   #18
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If I could sell my Curt, I'd get the Superglide.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:56 PM   #19
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"I'm understanding that the longer the trailer, the more likely there could be contact because of the delayed trailer action during turning. NO?

NO. The only thing that makes a difference on cab clearance is where the king pin is located in the bed relative to the width of the trailer. If the king pin is closer to the cab than the distance from the king pin to the farthest extension of the trailer corner, then it will hit the cab before getting to 90degrees.
Might not have said the above correctly, but the length of the trailer should have no bearing on whether you will hit the cab or not.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:09 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by RustyJC View Post
Conversely, there's a member of this forum that tows a Keystone 5th wheel with a 2003 Dodge/Cummins 2500 quad cab short bed. Both of the C pillars are dented from contact with the 5th wheel. Some 5th wheel/truck/hitch combos will clear under most conditions, while others won't. Just because you're lucky doesn't mean the OP will be.

Rusty
Then on the flip side just because that member was unlucky doesn't mean others are "just lucky".
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
"I'm understanding that the longer the trailer, the more likely there could be contact because of the delayed trailer action during turning. NO?

NO. The only thing that makes a difference on cab clearance is where the king pin is located in the bed relative to the width of the trailer. If the king pin is closer to the cab than the distance from the king pin to the farthest extension of the trailer corner, then it will hit the cab before getting to 90degrees.
Might not have said the above correctly, but the length of the trailer should have no bearing on whether you will hit the cab or not.
Joe
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Originally Posted by JIMNLIN View Post
Then on the flip side just because that member was unlucky doesn't mean others are "just lucky".
Hmmm..... In retrospect to this very topic, I wonder how many long beds are out there with crunched cabs from the driver not paying attention while their trailer had gone beyond 90*?
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:19 PM   #22
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Thats good to know but my only concern is that I plan on towing a trailer about 10' longer. I'm understanding that the longer the trailer, the more likely there could be contact because of the delayed trailer action during turning. NO?
NO. As I doubt your trailer is 42' long. Don't confuse model numbers with actual length.
Your not happy with the equipment you have. IMO you should sell/trade in your present equipment and get what you think you need.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:29 PM   #23
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NO. As I doubt your trailer is 42' long. Don't confuse model numbers with actual length.
Your not happy with the equipment you have. IMO you should sell/trade in your present equipment and get what you think you need.
Not only is that not the case here but unfortunately most people dont have money to burn in this booming economy and I'm just happy that I have what I have and that I'm even able to consider purchasing a trailer at all. Yes there is some amazing rig's on this forum but I have what I have and just because I didn't have the foresight to see me pulling a 5th wheel when I bought it, selling it and looking for a long bed isn't reality. Also, I'm in limbo right now as I look for a trailer which works best for me, and in regards to trailer length, I was under the impression that the longer the trailer, the more truck/trailer angle is required to make the same turn than with a shorter trailer. Thats what I meant.
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Old 11-08-2011, 09:49 AM   #24
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Not only is that not the case here but unfortunately most people dont have money to burn in this booming economy and I'm just happy that I have what I have and that I'm even able to consider purchasing a trailer at all. Yes there is some amazing rig's on this forum but I have what I have and just because I didn't have the foresight to see me pulling a 5th wheel when I bought it, selling it and looking for a long bed isn't reality. Also, I'm in limbo right now as I look for a trailer which works best for me, and in regards to trailer length, I was under the impression that the longer the trailer, the more truck/trailer angle is required to make the same turn than with a shorter trailer. Thats what I meant.
I am pulling a Cougar 318SAB, 5er with a Ram 2500HD Mega Cab which has a 6'5" box. I am using a 15K Reese manual slider with a TrailAir extended pin box on the 5er. My overall length is 53 ft when hooked up and in the tow position from the front bumper to the rear bumper of trailer. I have had no issues what so ever in maneuvering this combination in city traffic and on city roads.
What I have done is take a lesson from Semi truck drivers. When turning to the right/left, I will extend out before making the turn; do not cut inside as most drivers of cars do. I will even try to cheat and move over to the RH/LH side of the lane before making any turns.
The pivot point on any 5er from the king pin to the front of the trailer is controlled by the extension of the pin box frame not the length of the trailer. What happens to a longer trailer when turning depends on where the trailer axles are place in relation to the king pin. This is where the trailer will rotate about the inside tires of the turn.
Take your turns slow and watch the inside of the turning trailer bumper for any clearance issues. You may have to slow down and straighten out the truck as you turn to change the trailer rear bumper position to clear obstacle but this can be done.
Jim W.
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