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Old 04-19-2005, 08:32 AM   #15
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With a good synthetic oil in the tranny I noticed a big difference with my a stock 48RE... I switched it out to Red line synthetic and the truck shifted much better. There was a lot less jolt when the truck would shift in all situations. Seemed to shift better through all the gears.
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Old 04-19-2005, 12:13 PM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Rick/IL:
If I remember correctly, I think the TSB said that the dealer was suppose to put a sticker on the the door, engine, someplace that said the flash had been done. On our big trucks at work, the sticker goes on the door piller. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Dodge normally places the reflash sticker on the radiator support.

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Old 04-20-2005, 05:04 AM   #17
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I had a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 lwb, quad cab, auto, 3:55 gears. I put a Edge EZ computer module on it and a BHAF (big honking air filter) and had Amsoil in the engine, transimission, and rear end. It would do 18 to 21 MPG in my adverage driving and 21 to 23 on the road. Towing my almost 10,000 lbs. TT it would do 10 to 13 depending on how fast I would go.
I traded for a 2004.5 last June. It is simular to the 01, but it has a 4:10 rear end and the 600 Cummins. I started out getting 14 to 16 MPG and 9.5 to 10 towing. I had the flash done and it has helped a little I am getting 16 to 18 and have done 21 on the road one time with very consertive driving. I just pulled my TT to Raleigh NC (100 miles one way) last weekend I only got up to 60 MPH on that trip trying to conserve fuel. The trip computer said 11 MPG. I burned 1/2 of a tank of fuel. The 04.5 and 05 Cummins have more than the calytic converter for emission and noise control. They have another injection process (I am not a mechanic so I depend on things that I read on http://www.dieseltruckresource.com
for information) some have speculated that because of this the newer engines are not going to get the fuel mileage that the older engines got. I think I am going to buy a Quadzilla XZILLARAIDER XZT for my truck because people are reporting 1 to 4 MPG better fuel mileage as well as more power. I already have an AFE air filter system and a Nelson free flowing replacment muffler. The only thing I have seen form these modifications is reduced exhaust trmpeture. I know one thing my new truck is a pulling son of a gun even if it does use more fuel.

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Old 04-22-2005, 04:14 AM   #18
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Nat about how many mile are on the truck????
If you are around 10k then have you changed the fuel filter yet? I would also change the air filter. Yes I know the book and the Filter Minder may say they don't need it but you will be suprised at just how dirty the air filter really is. As far as the fuel filter Pick one up at Autozone, their's are just rebadged CUMMUNS so it's OK.
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Old 04-22-2005, 11:13 AM   #19
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Nat,

Didn't see you mention what axle you have.

I have an 04 with the HO engine, and 4.10 axles. By the trip meter, I get around 11-12 towing. This was before it was fully broken in.

As for non-towing milage, seems to stay around 14 in mixed driving and maybe to 15-16 on the freeway at 70-74MPH. I think i am paying a higher milage penalty for the 4.10 axles that I expected. Even has me re-reading the gear vendors adds here an there, but the DW would kill me.

I had the reflash done, it seemed to help the trip meter be more accurate, but did not really help milage. FWIW my reflash sticker is on the radiator brace.

My neighbor has an 03 without the HO and has 3.73 axles. He gets about 20-21 on the freeway unloaded..

Love the truck though. Thinking I maybe would have liked the six speed, but have a tough place to back my TT into. I really think the auto needs another gear, so you can run at about 1800 RPM at 75MPH.

BTW, when towing , I only use tow/haul under 50-55 MPH. Once it is up to speed, I turn it off. Can never seem to get it to shift into 4th with T/H on.

Bryan
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:13 PM   #20
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Well, I got all my gas reciepts together and after checking I drove 3774 mile and used 320.69 gal of fuel for a total of 11.77. That is including 2900 miles towing and the rest riding around. I guess it isn't quite as bad as I felt like it was, cause several times I wouls refuel and see that I had driven 250 miles on that tank and it would take 29-30 gals to fill tank. That is why I wanted to get all the reciepts together before I figured it. Also take into account I left home with a full tank and I didn't fill back up when I got home so the milage will be worse than the 11.77 cause the tank is now at 1/4 so it would take another 28-30 gal to be a tru test. By my quick figuring that would dropp it another mile per gal nearly. I'm still impressed with the raw power it has.
Has anyone heard of a way to make the 48RE trans shift at a lower RPM? I noticed today when you are in a 35 mph zone it won't shift into 4th. It will run at around 1800 rpm's in 3rd and if you let off the throtle it will idle down to the idle point of around 800 rpm's till you mash the accelerater then it goes back to around 1800. It seems like it should go into 4th, I know with the 5 sp I would shift into 4 th, and it wouldn't be lugging the engine, just ideling along getting great milage. It seems as if the shift points could be adjusted, since it's all computer controled. I know on some older trucks you could change the modulator valve the was on them to change the shift rpm's. Any ideas anyone?
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:15 PM   #21
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Oh, BTW, I have 14,000 miles on it and it has the 3.73 gears
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:04 AM   #22
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
Has anyone heard of a way to make the 48RE trans shift at a lower RPM? I noticed today when you are in a 35 mph zone it won't shift into 4th. It will run at around 1800 rpm's in 3rd and if you let off the throtle it will idle down to the idle point of around 800 rpm's till you mash the accelerater then it goes back to around 1800. It seems like it should go into 4th, I know with the 5 sp I would shift into 4 th, and it wouldn't be lugging the engine, just ideling along getting great milage. It seems as if the shift points could be adjusted, since it's all computer controled. I know on some older trucks you could change the modulator valve the was on them to change the shift rpm's. Any ideas anyone? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


A different VB (Valve Body) would help change some of the shifting points and increase the line pressure for better shifting. Just a thought
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Old 05-13-2005, 10:36 AM   #23
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Nat, I am somewhat surprised at the tranny issues you are talking about. Our 04 with auto has one of the smoothest shifts, etc., I have ever had! The OD works very well, in fact it normally tows in OD just fine, it will downshift when we are pulling a steep grade. As I have said in some other posts, I don't like to be passed, so I generally set the cruise at the speed limit and let her rip. My suggestion would be to go back in and pound on the dealer!
Hope you get some results!
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Old 05-29-2005, 07:51 PM   #24
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Just figured I would put my 2-cents in. I have an exact identicle truck to Nats (my dad). Only difference is I have 285 tires and he has 265 tires. I normally pull a S185 Bobcat (about 6500# plus 2700# trailer) I will get about 10.5-11 pulling by the overhead trip, and 10-10.5 if you actually figure it. The best I have gotten to date is 15.7, and that was on a trip to Ohio with the tailgate down, and the cruise set at 60mph not pulling anything. I have since had the reflash done as well, and it has seemed to help about 1 mpg on the fuel. I also have the same trouble with the auto holding out before it shifts. If I leave my house pulling my loader, My truck will hold in 3rd gear (2500 rpm) until you top about 42-43 mph, and this is on flat ground, not under a hard load. If you go ahead and give it more pedal OR let off, it will shift, but not until you do one or the other. If you hold about 40-42 mph under light trottle, it takes about a mile before it will shift into 4th. Like him, I wish it would shift at a lower RPM. Anyone changed valve bodies and gotten better results? Is it worth it for the improved pulling?
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Old 05-30-2005, 07:01 PM   #25
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Well, you certainly explained what I've been trying to for a while, and better. It doesn't seem to me that anyone would make a trans. that doesn't want to change unless you, the driver does something. does't that make it a semi-automatic?
I've checked mine many times and it won't shift into 4 till 42 mph. I even let it take off down hill without pressing the acc, and on a long downhill it still won't shift into 4 till 42 mph and the torque converter won't lock in OD till 51 mph, but will stay locked down to 1200 rpms, around 43 then it unlocks. maybe someone can tell if the shift points can be changed with the onboard computer. Later, Nat
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