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Old 05-07-2016, 03:16 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Magellan View Post
I have been thinking how to check the tongue weight. I thought about the bathroom scale, but my DW said NO! Actually, it only goes 280 #s. So, if there are some other ideas on how to do this, I am game.
There are other posts regarding the use of a bathroom scale. Basically, you can offset it and then multiply your weight by the ratio of offset (3:1, 4:1, etc.). Look up technique on Internet or YouTube if need be. I actually purchased a trailer tongue scale to do this.

Also, is your hitch ball level with the tongue for proper towing?
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Old 05-07-2016, 03:20 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by lanerd View Post
While good intentions, Dusty and Mitch are confusing the issue by discussing the anti-sway bar that is mounted under the rear suspension of the van....not the anti-sway friction bar that is mounted on the trailer's tongue/hitch and not explaining the difference.

The van's anti-sway bar could indeed cause some of the van's towing instability, but we need to be aware of the two different devices.

Magellan, you really need to weigh your trailer and know the weights of not only its GVW (actual weight...not the rating) and its tongue weight. Typically, a trailer needs to have approximately 12% to 13% of the trailer's GVW on the tongue. Anything lighter or heavier may cause problems. In addition, and as mentioned above, you need to measure the height of the van's front fender well lip before and after attaching the trailer and adjust the weight distribution unit's chains such that there is no more than 1" difference in the two measurements. You might also have to tilt the hitch ball head mount a little to achieve the desired measurement.

I sure hope you get it worked out...

Ron
Thanks, Ron I have weighed everything and have been under the give on all axles, but the 12-13% gives me an imperical number to shoot for. Also, I will break out the tape measure.
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Old 05-07-2016, 03:22 PM   #31
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I had one for about 2 years before upsizing to the fiver. I admit it can be a problem the first few times, but you get it down after a while. And not having ANY sway made it worthwhile.
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Old 05-07-2016, 03:24 PM   #32
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I think a tongue scale may be the wisest, most accurate way to go. The offset concept sounds interesting, though.
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Old 05-07-2016, 03:32 PM   #33
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Smile

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Originally Posted by tuffr2 View Post
If you get the class 'A' that you want it will probably have the same V-10 as your van has.
I am actually looking at a DP. If that doesn't permanently cure the "spark plugs blasting their way out of the engine block" problem, I will just have to give it up and buy an S&B home.
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Old 05-07-2016, 03:34 PM   #34
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Okay, there's a lot of misleading information in these posts. First thing, the trailer should be level and weight should be proper at 10 - 15% hitch weight pushing down on the ball at the front of your trailer. As a rule of thumb, the rear of the van may go down about 2 inches before you hook up the weight distributing kit. If the weight distributing kit is hooked up properly the van will have equal spacing in the front and rear wheel wells and the trailer will be level. Sway control devices may be added in addition to the weight distributing kit to help with sway control if still needed. As you have stated, tire pressure on trailer in vehicle is important also.
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:46 PM   #35
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[QUOTE=Magellan;3057521]
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What year is your van? A couple of years of the V10s were known to have spark plug problems. It was corrected in the later years. There is a Ford service bulletin that was issued on the subject.]

It's a nightmare however you look at it. I should not be having to deal with spark plugs launching themselves out of the engine block at random moments. There should be a Ford recall.
The problem originally was a combination of poor design and improper plug replacement by mechanics. Since there isn't a recall make sure your mechanic is following the proper replacement instructions and specifications set by Ford. If not, you will continue to have problems. Unfortunately if a previous replacement/repair was done improperly already, the only solution may be to replace the heads with the updated versions.
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Old 05-07-2016, 09:58 PM   #36
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What tires on the van and what air pressure ?
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Old 05-07-2016, 11:12 PM   #37
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I am confident this has been addressed dozens times before, but I am not finding the threads.

I have a 2007 31 foot Outback. I am pulling it with my E-350 Ford van with a V10 engine. I am fighting with a tremendous amount of instability in the ride. This has been going on for a little while with it getting very much worse in the last month. I just (yesterday) had the van's front end aligned with new tie rods installed. We have shifted a tremendous amount of weight forward. I tightened up the sway controllers (3 chain links instead of the usual two). Grooves in the road, passing vehicles, cross winds all wreak havoc with my ability to keep it on the road.

What else can I do/ look for?

When I bought my new TT 8700 loaded 30ft and my tv is a 2006 Chevy 2500hd crew cab short bed every time I was on the highway my trailer would take over my truck drag me into the other lane never felt anything like it anything over 60 was scary and I've been towing a long time It ended up being the junk tires they put on it I upgraded my rims and bought a tire rim combo and the sway has been gone so tells me the cheap tires were rolling over
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:39 AM   #38
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When I bought my new TT 8700 loaded 30ft and my tv is a 2006 Chevy 2500hd crew cab short bed every time I was on the highway my trailer would take over my truck drag me into the other lane never felt anything like it anything over 60 was scary and I've been towing a long time It ended up being the junk tires they put on it I upgraded my rims and bought a tire rim combo and the sway has been gone so tells me the cheap tires were rolling over
Tires are such a challenge. I have lost quite a few. Part of this is because my TT should have three axles under it because of its length and weight. Another example of Keystone engineering at its finest and their willingness to leave virtually no margin for safety. I have been upgrading the ores as I lose them. Unfortunately, it has been too common. I will need to look at this aspect also. Thanks
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:46 AM   #39
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I have been thinking how to check the tongue weight. I thought about the bathroom scale, but my DW said NO! Actually, it only goes 280 #s. So, if there are some other ideas on how to do this, I am game.
This following site will provide you with info needed to use a bathroom scale regardless of the limitations of the scale or the weight of the trailer's tongue.

Measuring trailer tongue weight with a bathroom scale
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:32 PM   #40
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This following site will provide you with info needed to use a bathroom scale regardless of the limitations of the scale or the weight of the trailer's tongue.

Measuring trailer tongue weight with a bathroom scale
Ron, that is really cool. I can definitely see how it works. It's funny, I was explaining arms and moments to my two youngest sons just a couple of days ago, but had not connected it to this. Thanks
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:25 PM   #41
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What tires on the van and what air pressure ?
They are Toyo open Country country at 80 PSI on the rear and 60 on front per the info on the door jam. I am waiting to get my van back. Will get the exact size then.
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:27 PM   #42
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[QUOTE=Old Radios;3057906]
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The problem originally was a combination of poor design and improper plug replacement by mechanics. Since there isn't a recall make sure your mechanic is following the proper replacement instructions and specifications set by Ford. If not, you will continue to have problems. Unfortunately if a previous replacement/repair was done improperly already, the only solution may be to replace the heads with the updated versions.
Yeah, this is the second time repair. Pulled heads and etc. not a Ford fan anymore...
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