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Old 05-09-2010, 03:38 AM   #1
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Sway Control & WDH

I am going to purchase the Cougar and need to a WDH/Sway control setup to match.

I have never owned or towed an RV, but do have experience operating heavy duty tow vehicle/trailer combination's.

Dry weight of the trailer is 7900#'s. Max trailer weight is 10,875#'s. Tongue weight is 715#'s. My vehicles max tow rating is 10,100 so obviously I will not ever reach the GTWR with my current tow vehicle. Max payload is 1495#'s and must take into account ALL occupants, cargo, and tongue weight a full tank of gas, and all fluids are accounted for and do not need to be included when calculating payload according to Toyota documentation).

I have done all the calculations and 3 and half months of research and feel comfortable with the truck/trailer combination. So please don't bash me and tell me that the Tundra CAN'T pull this trailer. I'm sure a 3/4 ton Chevy/Ford/Dodge would pull it easier, but again, I don't plan on maxing out the towing/payload capacity of the truck and am comfortable with the setup.

I'm strictly looking for info on the WDH/Sway setups.

What is the difference between dual cam and friction setups?

What are the advantages of and disadvantages of each?

Do I really need to spend $2000+ on a ProPride or Henley hitch? I don't doubt they are worth it, but will the Equal-i-zer do the the job?

There is very little price difference between the 1000/10000# and the 1200/12000# versions. Will I see a performance increase if I step up to the 1200/12000# version even if my tongue and trailer weight never exceed the 1000/10000#?

It seems like the versions offered by Curt, Reese, Blue Ox, and Equalizer are all very similar. I would like to hear personal experiences from use of the different brands, and what you like and dislike about that particular brand. Right now I'm leaning toward the Equal-i-zer brand. Seems like it's got a solid reputation/track record with a reasonable price.

Thanks for your help and time. It is greatly appreciated.

Ryan
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:16 AM   #2
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Since you say you have done all the research and calculations then you surely know that "dry" weight numbers are totally useless. But since you insist that you will be OK with this combo, (BTW I totally disagree) then forget all other hitches and get a Hensley Arrow or similar type of hitch assembly.
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Old 05-09-2010, 10:34 AM   #3
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I think you are possibly looking at too little truck or too much trailer here. Your loaded trailer will be something closer to 9000# and once you get the truck loaded with supplies, people and hitch, your towing capacity will be closer to 9100#. With these numbers, you will be near your limits and you need to get the rig weighed and watch the weights.

A 9000# trailer should have a hitch weight of 900# to 1350#. Your maximum payload of 1495# does not include a hitch assembly, cargo or passengers. So again you will be close to the limits and need to watch the weight.

As for a hitch, the Reese Dual Cam HP is an excellent hitch for the money. When set up properly it works very well.

Just from personal experience, I would not pull a 31' trailer with a 1/2 ton truck. Power is only part of the equation for successful towing. You need a truck that is large enough to handle the trailer not the other way around.

I think it will prove to be a tiring rig to drive for long trips or in the hills. The Tundra is a great truck, just keep it inside the tow limits.

You will also need a good brake controller. The Prodigy works, but is not the best. I suggest a MaxBrake unit.

Ken
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Old 05-09-2010, 01:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 450Donn View Post
Since you say you have done all the research and calculations then you surely know that "dry" weight numbers are totally useless. But since you insist that you will be OK with this combo, (BTW I totally disagree) then forget all other hitches and get a Hensley Arrow or similar type of hitch assembly.
I know the dry weight is not a useful number. I planed a loaded weight somewhere between 9000 to 9500. I also calculated myself, my wife, and my kids, the tongue weight, and a little of our crap in the payload. I'm know I'm towards the upper end on both towing and payload, but I'm still below max. I have seen this tuck pull almost this exact trailer on numerous occasions. I'm only going about 250 miles and the trailer will be in the same place for a least the next 6 to 7 months. If in that short journey the trailer totally overwhelms the truck then I will consider upgrading to a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. I just don't like any of my options when it comes to that size truck.

Have you used the Hensley Arrow? I was looking for personal experience with the product recommendation. At the least, someone who has seen the product used.
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Old 05-09-2010, 01:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXiceman View Post
I think you are possibly looking at too little truck or too much trailer here. Your loaded trailer will be something closer to 9000# and once you get the truck loaded with supplies, people and hitch, your towing capacity will be closer to 9100#. With these numbers, you will be near your limits and you need to get the rig weighed and watch the weights.

A 9000# trailer should have a hitch weight of 900# to 1350#. Your maximum payload of 1495# does not include a hitch assembly, cargo or passengers. So again you will be close to the limits and need to watch the weight.

As for a hitch, the Reese Dual Cam HP is an excellent hitch for the money. When set up properly it works very well.

Just from personal experience, I would not pull a 31' trailer with a 1/2 ton truck. Power is only part of the equation for successful towing. You need a truck that is large enough to handle the trailer not the other way around.

I think it will prove to be a tiring rig to drive for long trips or in the hills. The Tundra is a great truck, just keep it inside the tow limits.

You will also need a good brake controller. The Prodigy works, but is not the best. I suggest a MaxBrake unit.

Ken
Again, I totally understand what the loaded trailer will weigh. I don't plan on dry camping so I do need a full load of water or LP, but I still calculated that into my max gross just in case I wanted too. And I understand what the payload entails, and I have calculated that using real numbers.

As stated I know that I'm close on both, but still well below max on both accounts.

I obviously can't weight the truck and trailer right this second as the trailer I'm buying is 1800 miles away from me. I will get everything weighed when it's all together, and if I'm to close to max, or the truck just simply can't pull it, then I will completely empty the trailer, get the trailer to where it needs to be for the next 7 months and buy a 3/4 or 1 ton truck in the mean time.

Again based on my personal experience with this truck, and the fact I have seen it easily pull 10,000+ pounds on various and numerous occasions, I feel comfortable pulling less than 10,000 at least the 250 miles I need to go to get to the long term campsite.

I have a prodigy brake controller.

I don't have any unrealistic expectations that I'm going to tow this trailer up a mountain at 75MPH, and I know that my gas mileage will probably suffer, but I do think that the build quality and technology put into the Tundra will safely tow this trailer. If I'm wrong, like I said will get it where it needs to go, eat crow, and buy a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.

Do you have personal experience with the Reese Dual Cam HP? How did it work? As I clearly stated I was looking for advice on sway control/WDH setups. I wanted to know what people were personally using and how those systems where or where not working.
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Old 05-09-2010, 02:46 PM   #6
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If I had nothing and were buying a hitch I would spend the money and get the Hensley or equivilent. That would eliminate any regret or second guesses. I used a dual cam for about 10 years and liked it, but if I were buying from scratch I would spend the extra cash.
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Old 05-09-2010, 02:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
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If I had nothing and were buying a hitch I would spend the money and get the Hensley or equivilent. That would eliminate any regret or second guesses. I used a dual cam for about 10 years and liked it, but if I were buying from scratch I would spend the extra cash.
Thank you for the information. It is appreciated. Do you have any opinion on the ProPride or Hensley as to the benefits of one over the other?
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:05 PM   #8
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I am sure someone on here does, but I do not. They are supposed to be equally effective using basically the same strategy to eliminate sway, so price would be a factor. You might find a used Hensley since they have been around a long time. But like I said, I am not a good resource other than the fact that those that use them love them.

A few more dollars to go with the best setup are a good investment if it provides comfort and peace of mind. With your small children on board you need all the peace of mind you can get. :-)

There is always a good resale for those hitches so it''s not like you're throwing money away. Just do a lot of "Google"ing.
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iflyskyhigh View Post
I am going to purchase the Cougar and need to a WDH/Sway control setup to match.

I have never owned or towed an RV, but do have experience operating heavy duty tow vehicle/trailer combination's.

Ryan
To make it short, I use to pull with the reese duel cam set up, and my local dealer offered to put on the equalizer set up, take it for a test drive, and if I wasn't happy, he would reinstall the reese. I kept the equalizer system. No chains, and the trailer felt more stable behind the truck.

Good Luck,
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Old 05-09-2010, 04:28 PM   #10
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I run the Reese Dual Cam and it is a bit more to set up, but it will out perform any of the friction sway controls on the market. If you don't want to go with a Hensley Arrow, the next choice is the Reese DC HP.

On the issue of towing, there is a lot of difference pulling a 10,000# trailer with equipment and a 10,000# TT. The TT presents a huge sail to the cross winds and the bow wakes from trucks. So it will push around the truck to some extent. It is scarey to get the tail wagging the dog.

With that much trailer on the Tundra, I would want the Hensley Arrow or the Reese Dual Cam HP and not a friction type sway control.

Have fun.

Ken
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:10 PM   #11
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... if I'm to close to max, or the truck just simply can't pull it ...
It's more a question of stopping than pulling. I know you're not asking, but that's my 2.

I used a Reese weight-distributing hitch with a friction sway damper for years. It worked great with my half-ton GMC and hybrid trailer that weighed only 3,000 pounds.
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Old 05-09-2010, 08:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpytrkr View Post
To make it short, I use to pull with the reese duel cam set up, and my local dealer offered to put on the equalizer set up, take it for a test drive, and if I wasn't happy, he would reinstall the reese. I kept the equalizer system. No chains, and the trailer felt more stable behind the truck.

Good Luck,
Thank you for your time.
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Old 05-09-2010, 08:47 PM   #13
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I run the Reese Dual Cam and it is a bit more to set up, but it will out perform any of the friction sway controls on the market. If you don't want to go with a Hensley Arrow, the next choice is the Reese DC HP.

On the issue of towing, there is a lot of difference pulling a 10,000# trailer with equipment and a 10,000# TT. The TT presents a huge sail to the cross winds and the bow wakes from trucks. So it will push around the truck to some extent. It is scarey to get the tail wagging the dog.

With that much trailer on the Tundra, I would want the Hensley Arrow or the Reese Dual Cam HP and not a friction type sway control.

Have fun.

Ken

Understood Ken. Thank you for your time.

The Dual Cam HP uses the chains, where as the friction type bars just rest up against the trailer frame, correct?
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Old 05-09-2010, 08:50 PM   #14
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It's more a question of stopping than pulling. I know you're not asking, but that's my 2.

I used a Reese weight-distributing hitch with a friction sway damper for years. It worked great with my half-ton GMC and hybrid trailer that weighed only 3,000 pounds.
I thought about the brake issue. The Tundra has massive brakes, every bit as good any of the 3/4 ton trucks. Combined with the Prodigy brake controller it should be okay.

Thanks for the info on the WDH.
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