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Old 03-23-2013, 05:34 PM   #15
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I would upgrade the hitch on the truck to one capable of carrying the tongue weight without a WDH.
It would probably be less expensive. It would most likely be stronger. It would allow for even larger tongue weight with WDH in the future if you get a larger trailer. Hitching would be far simpler.

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Old 03-23-2013, 07:21 PM   #16
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Hitching up a WD hitch is not hard. Plus the truck will ride and handle better with the weight distributed over the axles rather than dumping all of the weight on the back of the truck.


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Old 03-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #17
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I've watched hot-shotters driving SRW and DRW trucks leave Goshen towing travel trailers of all lengths. None of them ever use a W/D hitch. Never inquired as to their actual truck hitch ratings.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:02 PM   #18
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Ill throw my 2 cents in here I pulled my 24c without a DW hitch and never had an issue with my drw f350 could hardly feel it back there and didn't drop the hitch but a quarter inch, towed it for thousands of miles with a forged aluminum rapid hitch. My truck was in shop and pulled it with a srw dodge 3500 and it was all over the place! I say go with your gut feeling you have a lot of truck there and the big part are the brakes not if your over your pin weight by a few lbs, there is lots of guys pulling equipment trailers with machinery on them with wd hitches
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:19 AM   #19
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Why go with your gut when you have all the numbers right in front of you. Its not an emotional decision, simply a math problem. Plug in the numbers cause when bad stuff happens, thats what the lawyers will do.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:34 PM   #20
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Agreed. There is no reason NOT to use a WDH with antisway. I say it is irresponsible not to.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:48 PM   #21
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We all start somewhere. And the quote illustrates what can be heard any number of places.

The purpose of weight distribution (I thought) was to level the truck and trailer by distributing the weight to all axles. But if the truck isn't sagging in the rear (and in fact is still about an inch or two taller than the front) with the trailer hitched no distribution is needed (I think).

Hear this all the time. Why at least 90% of all combinations are improperly hitched. The function of a WDH is to restore the weight value of the front axle of the tow vehicle to its unhitched value. FALR (Front Axle Load Restoration).

Trailer towing accidents are primarily about loss-of-control by the driver. Driver skill is not only moot, it is laughable as a defense in an argument. Risk minimization is what matters. Why Interstates carry ten times the traffic of all other road types, but have the lowest incident of serious and fatal accidents . . their design is risk-minimization writ large.

FALR means the steering responds in a manner to which the driver is accustomed.

And, TW -- as we measure it -- is a static value. But not so in going down the road as dynamic forces can take a putative 800-lb TW and increase it momentarily to 8000-lbs. That's a hammer. A lever, to be exact: the length of which is the distance from hitch ball to TT axles. The longer, the worse it can be. So, spreading that to FA and to TT axles is a genuine, proven benefit (SAE).

By contrast, a load in the truck bed is pretty much always the same. These two things -- payload versus tongue weight -- are not at all the same for comparisons.

And, TT's deal with forces an open construction flatbed rarely contend with: wind, be it natural or man-made. In this, the WDH plays its part along with any anti-sway as integrated into hitch design or added on.

A WDH is a manufacturer requirement, and anti-sway is optional to that requirement. It is not quite even secondary.

Folks tend to get these things reversed, or assign the value of one differently than they are intended.

Even the best hitch is dirt cheap compared to alternatives to having one. And not even close in cost to depreciation for one year on either TV or TT.
They'll last almost indefinitely depending on type, care and miles.

What's funny is the resistance seen across RV boards to setting one up properly, and that is with a segmented, certified weight scale (see CAT Scale Locator). Its the work of a few hours, an afternoon. Take a helper and a selection of tools. The work is worth every bit of perceived aggravation.

A handful of scale tickets and notes covering the range of vehicle weights/loadings and one can re-adjust that hitch as necessary (anywhere).

Good luck

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Old 03-30-2013, 07:02 PM   #22
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Rednax - Yours was an excellent answer. Thank you very much! And thanks to all who posted! I've got another issue now that I need to find the right forum to post it in. It's a water heater blow-off valve issue.

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