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Old 09-28-2016, 05:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahdi View Post
Thank you for all the posts. I need to correct my post. It was the trailer pads and drum that needed to be changed. The truck brakes are still good at 85,000 miles. They are the original pads.
Either they're not releasing or the gain is set to high.


Be well.
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:42 AM   #16
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You absolutely need your trailer brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mahdi View Post
I have a RAM 2500 2012 diesel towing a 14000 lb fifth wheel. I have always been told to have my tow brake at 6.5% when towing down the road. My question is, is that necessary when driving at 65 mph on a relatively flat road? I have gone about 30,000 miles and had to get new brake pads and drums. Can I put the 5th wheel brake on 0% until I get into traffic or go down hill?
Any opinions would be appreciated. Thank you
Having to replace the brakes has more to do with not having you brake controller set high enough and I am assuming you are talking about your truck brakes. RAM brake controllers are not the best and should be set at nine. I have a 2016 RAM 2500 and I'm pulling about 13,000 and found it inadequate and went to a Prodigy. We also had the brake controller (RAM Brake controller) replaced twice because of problems in mountain driving we would get messages to check trailer brake wiring and then a message the brake was disconnected. Not what you want to see coming down a 7% grade. I think it is a electronic problem with the truck but Dodge says it is my new fifth-wheel which is a Reflections by Grand Design with no know brake issues.
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:26 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by DaytonaJones View Post
Having to replace the brakes has more to do with not having you brake controller set high enough and I am assuming you are talking about your truck brakes. RAM brake controllers are not the best and should be set at nine. I have a 2016 RAM 2500 and I'm pulling about 13,000 and found it inadequate and went to a Prodigy. We also had the brake controller (RAM Brake controller) replaced twice because of problems in mountain driving we would get messages to check trailer brake wiring and then a message the brake was disconnected. Not what you want to see coming down a 7% grade. I think it is a electronic problem with the truck but Dodge says it is my new fifth-wheel which is a Reflections by Grand Design with no know brake issues.
Have you check your axle seals? Lots of GD owners reporting blown seals and grease all over the brakes.
Aside from that I agree about Ram TBC's. My 12 2500 CTD TBc was faulty from day one. I towed the same TT with an F150 that had a built in TBC. It worked flawlessly. Towed the same TT with the Ram and could never get the TT brakes to work right. I too went to a Tekonsha brake controller. Big improvement.
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Old 10-11-2016, 12:02 PM   #18
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Yes I have an engine brake and an exhaust brake. They work great and probably what kept my truck brakes in such good condition. Going down hill is easy and the truck holds the trailer just fine or slows it down if I take my foot off the accelerator pedal.
I do not drive with two feet.
The tongue weight on this trailer is 1380 lbs.

My question is when going down the road on a highway do I need trailer brakes at 6.5%.

That was answered by "old-biscuit" and the user manual he included so kindly.
Thank you

Your 2012 Ram with Cummins Diesel has a ' Variable Geometry Turbo (VGT)' meaning that vanes inside turbo open.close to provide engine braking.
It is an EXHAUST BRAKE vs an engine brake as it restricts exhaust flow thru turbo.

You stated you have a 14K 5th wheel but now state it has a pin weight of 1380#.
That MUST be a MFG. published 'DRY' weight based on DRY Trailer weight

I tow a 14K 5vr and WET pin (trailer loaded for camping trip) is 3000#

YOU NEED to load up truck and trailer fully (just like you would for camping trip) and then go to CAT Scales and get weighed
Truck/trailer
and then just truck (drop 5vr in parking lot)
Cost $10-12 with free reweigh

Weight tickets will give you trucks Front axle, Rear axle, Trailer axle, total weight.
With REAL weight numbers you can see how much over trucks GVWR you are (and you will be)
With REAL weight numbers you will see how much you are over PAYLOAD (indicated on tire data sticker on door jamb) (and you will be)
With REAL weight numbers you will see how close/over you are on trucks rear axle rating (you will be)
With REAL weight numbers you will see how close you are to trucks rear tire MAX Load Ratings (you will be)

Find your 2500 trim level in chart and see what YOUR trucks ratings are
http://fifthwheelst.com/documents/ra...wing.Specs.pdf

Be better informed so YOU can make informed decisions
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:39 AM   #19
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thank you. This is very informative.
The breaks I was talking about belonged to the fifth wheel not the truck. The original truck brakes are fine at 90k
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:27 AM   #20
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Careful, the weight POlice are out in force.
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:22 PM   #21
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Careful, the weight POlice are out in force.
Yes you can label me part of the 'weight police' crowd

Somebody needs to point out real world capacities, capabilities and limitations.

One either understands 'ratings' and uses them or try to 'justify' not using them.

Actual scaled weights gives one a 'reality check' which then allows them to make an 'informed decision' VS -----Tows just fine
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Old 10-13-2016, 02:01 PM   #22
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Thank you
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Old 10-13-2016, 02:22 PM   #23
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No one can tell you the correct number to set it at. You have to test it when loaded and ready to roll.
Read online for how to do that.

You should NEVER just set it to zero.

You should lean heavily on the tow/haul and exhaust brake to do the majority of your braking. I downshift the automatic manually to leverage the exhaust brake as much as possible.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:45 AM   #24
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Thank you TDI mini. That is what I have done
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