Tow vehicle specifics

[franceeli]

Looking for tow vehicle specifics with regard to a 16x7 cargo trailer, which will be 4,500-4,800 fully loaded, and which I will likely be pulling on a variety of inclines including occasional mountain passes. We intend to do a decent amount of miles with it too, cross country trips included.

What I'm really interested in is tow vehicle specs, such as wheel base (how short is too short?) and gear size (do I need to make sure I have at least a 3.73? for example). Its easy enough to find tow vehicle weight ratings, but I'm having a harder time understanding what other considerations I need to be accounting for. I'm concerned about the safety elements, such as sway and controlling the trailer at highway speeds.

I'm a relative newbie to this game, so bear with me if I'm asking silly questions!
I already pull a 3,000lb trailer with my Chevy Suburban 2013 1500 LTZ with the cooling package and have had no issues there, but we are looking to upgrade to something bigger and when we do I want to make sure we have the right tow vehicle for the job.

[SmokeyWren]

Hi, Franceeli, and and to our campfire.

Originally Posted by franceeli

... 16x7 cargo trailer, which will be 4,500-4,800 fully loaded, …

My 14x7 cargo trailer has GVWR of 7,000 pounds, so I plan on it grossing up to 7,000 pounds. A properly loaded trailer that weighs 7,000 pounds will have tongue weight of about 900 pounds. Add another 100 pounds for a good weight-distributing/sway control hitch, and max hitch weight is about 1,000 pounds.

There are a few different weight ratings you need to consider to match tow vehicle to trailer. The most obvious is the tow rating, which is easy to find. Tow rating = GCWR minus the unloaded weight of the tow vehicle. But tow rating is not very important because it assumes no weight in the tow vehicle but a skinny driver. Don't exceed the tow rating, but don't use it to determine max trailer weight you can tow without being overloaded.

The most common limiter to trailer size/weight is the tow vehicle's payload capacity available for hitch weight. GVWR minus the weight of the wet and loaded tow vehicle.

But you must also consider rear GAWR, because for some tow vehicles rGAWR is the limiter.

And finally, consider the weight capacity of the receiver hitch. Be sure max tongue weight will not exceed the weight capacity of the receiver.

What I'm really interested in is tow vehicle specs, such as wheel base (how short is too short?) …

I've never worried about wheelbase on my tow vehicles. But then I've never considered towing a heavy trailer with a short-wheelbase SUV. But the general rule is that the floor of the trailer should not be longer than twice the wheelbase of the tow vehicle.

...and gear size (do I need to make sure I have at least a 3.73? for example).

Gear ratio is included in the computation of GCWR and tow rating. So if you don't get close to the tow rating, then don't worry about gear ratio. You'll have plenty of power to pull the wet and loaded trailer over the mountain pass. The tow rating on late-model tow vehicle tells you the max weight you can PULL without exceeding the GCWR of the tow vehicle, but it ignores tongue or pin weight, GVWR, rGAWR and the weight capacity of your hitch. But when matching tow vehicle to max trailer weight, you must consider all those other limiters.

Its easy enough to find tow vehicle weight ratings, but I'm having a harder time understanding what other considerations I need to be accounting for. I'm concerned about the safety elements, such as sway and controlling the trailer at highway speeds. ...

For a "bumper pull" cargo trailer, the biggie is the weight-distributing (WD) hitch. Ignore the cheaper ones you can find for less than $500. Spend the extra money for a good one that includes good built-in sway control, including

Equal-I-Zer 4P
Blue Ox SwayPro
Reese Strait-Line Trunnion
Husky Centerline HD 31390 (not the economy Centerline TS)

Those are available on-line for around $600 to $800, including spring bars and adjustable shank. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BXW10...x+SwayPro+1000

If your trailer has GVWR of 7,000 pounds, then you want the WD hitch to be rated for at least 1,000 pounds tongue weight (TW). Most good WD hitches are available with spring bars rated for 1,000 pounds TW. The Reese Strait-Line doesn't come in a 1,000 pound TW rating, so buy the 1,200 TW rating.

BTW, I tow my cargo trailer with a Reese Strait-Line Trunnion. Note the following link is to a Strait-Line that includes the shank. It is also available without the shank for around $100 less, but you have to have an adjustable WD shank, so pay attention to details if you go shopping.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html

[tuffr2]

You can pull the new trailer with the same Suburban I think. Say you are wrong and load the trailer to 6,000lbs. You will still be ok(ish).

But as Smokey says, to be extra safe use the GVWR of the trailer. You are lucky as a cargo trailer will have less areodymaic drag than a camping trailer. Plus you have more control how the cargo trailer is loaded.

Good luck.

[Jshopes81]

The suburban (if in good upkeep) will be fine pulling that much. I had a tahoe for a long time with the factory tow package and i dont think it required a wd setup until 6k/600lb tw. Im not 100% sure on those numbers, but, depending on your comfort levels, you may be able to use a regular hitch. Wd hitches are a pain, i wouldnt deal with one unless absolutely necessary.

[franceeli]

Thank you for the detailed responses! Just so I’m clear, my suburban has a GCWR of 14,000lbs and a max tongue weight rating of 1,000lbs with a WD hitch. Max trailer rate is recommended at 8000 by Chevy.
The trailer we’re looking at has a GVWR of 7000lbs, but is likely to come in at around 4,800 fully loaded, so using the 10-15% rule we’re looking at a tongue weight of 480-720lbs. Sounds like we could go to the GVWR of the trailer and would not exceed tongue weight, but I’m thinking that we won’t come close to 7000lbs wet and loaded.
The wheelbase of the suburban is 130” so double that and we have a 21ft max trailer length. So 16ft trailer should be good.
Rear GAWR is rated at 4,200lbs so I think I’m unlikely to get close to that. I’m planning to keep the suburban fairly lightly loaded. Family of four plus dog, plus small amount of gear should keep car cargo weight to under 600lbs.
I’ll look into the heavy duty weight distribution hitches as well.
The suburban is in good shape and I plan on keeping a tight ship as far as maintenance goes.
So sounds like we should be good as long as we’re smart about weight distribution.
Am I missing anything?

[Superslif]

Make sure your tires on the trailer are the proper sized and have weigh limits in range. Some of the OEM tires have softer side walls causing the trailer to bounce. I had a friend replace the tiny 14" tires with higher weight limit 15".