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Old 01-23-2013, 07:51 PM   #15
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Ex's were know for the soft rear suspension, to make them ride better as a grocery getter...not what you want for towing. You can beef up the rear suspension to take the mush out of it, but you do not change the GVWR on the vehicle. I have know a couple of people that took the axle and springs from an F350 SRW and put that under the Ex and made a really good tow vehicle out of it.

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Old 01-23-2013, 08:53 PM   #16
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Good question, what do the specs for the vehicle say?
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:02 PM   #17
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We purchased a 2013 Avenger 261lt travel trailer. The brochure for the tt lists the following: length 28' 11", height 10' 3". hitch 573 lbs, ship weight 4698 lbs, carrying capacity 2837 lbs. Is this within the excursion's limits? We currently have a 1999 Suburban c1500 2 wheel drive 5.8 v 8 engine. We haven't towed the tt yet except for about 15 miles from where we bought it. Based on the excursion's limits how heavy could we go in the future without major modifications. One again thank you for all your help.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdnut View Post
We purchased a 2013 Avenger 261lt travel trailer. The brochure for the tt lists the following: length 28' 11", height 10' 3". hitch 573 lbs, ship weight 4698 lbs, carrying capacity 2837 lbs. Is this within the excursion's limits?
SmokeyWren and I used different methods to get to the Excursion's loaded weight which yields slightly different maximum trailer weights that you can tow without exceeding your Excursion's GVWR. If we assume that your trailer's ship weight (let's round it to 4,700 lbs) is accurate as is your estimate of 1,000 lbs of gear, then the loaded trailer would weigh 4,700 + 1,000 = 5,700 lbs. That should be fine since it's well under the 6,600 to 7,100 lb maximum weights we calculated.

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Old 01-24-2013, 08:06 AM   #19
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By the way, since it hasn't been mentioned, plan on investing in a good weight-distributing hitch with sway control.

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Old 01-24-2013, 08:31 AM   #20
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Dang Rusty, beat me to it
was just about to put in a plug for the propride hitch I have in the classifieds - it's what I used for the Ex...
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:08 AM   #21
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When we purchased the travel trailer we also puurchased a Pro Series weight distribution and anti sway hitch which my husband is going to take off the suburban and put on the excursion if we buy it. Is this a good hitch?
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:39 AM   #22
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hitch 573 lbs, ship weight 4698 lbs, carrying capacity 2837 lbs.
"Hitch" weight is dry weight, so almost useless info. You actual wet and loaded hitch weight will be a lot more.

4698 + 2837 = 7,535 pounds GVWR for the trailer. That's a heavier trailer than we estimated you could tow without being overloaded. So to "make do with whatcha got", you'll have to be very conscious of how much weight you haul in the trailer. For example, always travel with empty holding tanks, and only enough fresh water in the fresh water tank to flush the pottie while on the road. No heavy dishes nor cast iron cookware. No hauling of 3 cases of beer or pop (or even bottled water).

Then in the middle of your first RV trip, weigh the wet and loaded rig (with the WD hitch tightened up to highway specs). Add the SUV front and rear axle weights to get GVW, and compare that to GVWR of the SUV. Then you'll know where you stand and can decide how much stuff to not bring on the next trip. Or whether you can add one more case of bottled water without being overloaded.

Rear suspension: Yes, you have the equivalent of the F-250 chassis and drivetrain, but you have the rear suspension of a luxury SUV. So when towing your headlights are probably going to aim at the stars and blind oncoming drivers at night. The easiest way to bring the headlights back down to earth is to install air springs (also called air bags), and properly adjust the air springs to handle the load. The most popular air springs are Firestone RideRite. A simple manual system is affordable, but a PITA to air up when towing and deflate when not towing. RideRite also makes fully-automatic leveling systems, including an air compressor, that are a bit more expensive.

RideRite Website

Of course, there are other brands available.

I like to know my hitch weight, so I can redistribute some of the weight in the trailer if needed. So I keep a Sureline tongue weight scale in the TT.
Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scales

When you weigh the rig on a CAT scale, you will get trailer axle weight, not gross trailer weight. If you know your tongue weight, you can add that to the trailer axle weight to get gross trailer weight - to compare to the GVWR of the trailer.

Think of your trailer as a teeter-totter. Moving weight from in front of the trailer axles to behind the trailer axles will reduce the hitch weight. But too much of a good thing is a bad thing. NEVER wind up with less than 10% hitch weight. About 12% is ideal. And mine has been over 15% at times. So if you insist on hauling three cases of beer, store them in the very back of the trailer.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:49 AM   #23
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I would of loved to own an excursion but the fact that it is without a doubt the worst gas mileage suv ever made is a real turn off. I would also look into getting the usual upgrades. Start with a banks system. Every little bit helps. Also maybe look at adding a larger tranny cooler or adding another one.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:45 AM   #24
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A cohort at work has just put his beautiful Eddie Bauer 7.3L Powerstroke Excursion on the market. This thing is in pristine condition (the guy is a car nut) and was used just to tow a boat. If I were a TT puller, I'd sure think about snagging that thing!! Too bad there's nothing comparable to the Excursion on the market today. Even with its GVWR deficiency and soggy stock rear suspension, it filled a niche in the towing market.

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Old 01-24-2013, 11:08 AM   #25
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Yep, excellent for tt... I put a RAS system on the rear and it worked wonders for the rear sag....

also, Beg to differ on the mpg ---- Guess you believe the media bias there - just like with an rv, the driving style has more to do with mpg than anything I had some small cars that got worst mpg !

Our Ex's got excellent mpg for what it was carrying around- upwards of 20 mpg on the hwy... around town about 15 and all mine were custom tuned - Banks is overrated and under performing - but they have an excellent marketing program !
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:25 AM   #26
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When we purchased the travel trailer we also puurchased a Pro Series weight distribution and anti sway hitch which my husband is going to take off the suburban and put on the excursion if we buy it. Is this a good hitch?
The Equal-I-Zer Pro Series is an "economy" weight-distributing hitch. Less than $250. And as with any economy model of anything, there are better hitches available, but they cost more.
Equalizer Trailer hitch - Pro Series on Sale - PPL Motor Homes

Some owners like them, but personally I spent a lot more and got a Reese dual-cam "Strait-Line" hitch.
Hitch and Sway Bars Combination on Sale - PPL Motor Homes

My dual cam has worked great, but then I haven't yet been in the extreme condition that can cause uncontrollable sway. So I'm saving right now to replace my dual cam with a Pro-Pride with 800-pound WD bars - just in case I someday get into that condition.
Trailer Sway Control Hitch Guaranteed to Eliminate Trailer Sway - ProPride 3P

(If you've ever experienced uncontrollable trailer sway, then you'll understand why I'm willing to spend over $2000 for a "no sway" hitch. The less expensive good hitches such as my dual cam help control sway, but they are not guaranteed to eliminate sway.)
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:42 PM   #27
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What we purchased was a round bar weight distribution with sway control. $750. Maximum gross trailer weight: 10,000 pounds, weight distributing 10,000 pounds, weight carrrying ballmount 5,000 pounds. Maximum tongue weight: weight distributing distributing 1,000, weight carrying ball mount 500 pounds.
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