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Old 02-01-2011, 09:48 PM   #15
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My 5er is about the same weight as yours. I pull it in the Colorado Rockies all the time with the rig described below. No sweat!
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Old 02-02-2011, 06:45 PM   #16
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Dealers are out to make a sale, so they will tell you just about anything to try and make the sale. You're getting good advise so continue to do your homework. I love my dually and wouldn't tow with anything else anymore, but then again that's just about all it's used for.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:23 AM   #17
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Knowledge Is Power

I tow a small Trailer w/my SUV, so I don't have a Dog in this fight, so to speak.

'jimcumminsw' gives some good, and widely seen, advice: get those 3 Gauges installed. Many of the guys I see around CO High Country have those 3 Gauges on the A Pillar [Driver's side] for easy monitoring. The thinner air up here really affects the 'thermals' of cooling, especially when pushing Vehicle limits. I see Trucks and 5ers/Trailers pulled over every trip transiting I-70. Knowledge is power, in terms of Gauges.

Besides the >20% less air up here to carry heat away, an unexpected kiss-of-death for you is when a Truck hauling Drilling Pipe loses a load, or there's a crash. Folks, including me, wind up in stop-and-go Traffic on the approach to the ~11,000'-high Eisenhower Tunnel or ~10,500' Vail Pass. My Electric Cooling Fan and oversized Tranny Pan can do only so much. I have to shut off the A/C and watch my Auto Tranny gear selection as my Engine Temp climbs every such Towing incident. This same stop-and-go heating occurs in Mountain Towns as you take a 2 lane Road to a scenic destination, or exit for Fuel or a Meal. On the flip side, there's not a trip yet where I don't see smell/see burning Brakes on Big Rigs - even empty ones - going down the Georgetown and Floyd Hill 6% Grades into Denver. I gear down and take my sweet time.

While it's not exactly what you plan to do, you might want to check into some 4x4 Forums. Some Posters tow up and over high CO passes/off Road and have some interesting tales of overheating. You can add such info to the great knowledge base above from experienced Posters. This Article addresses the perpetual problem of congestion on I-70 at peak times:

Proposed I-70 Congestion Solutions
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:54 AM   #18
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Since you already have your TV, it's too late now but the 410 rear end is a much better gear ratio for heavy towing. Also you should only consider the GVWR of a trailer for it's weight until you have it loaded and an actual weight. We RVer's tend to put more in than we think. (or it just weighs more)
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:39 PM   #19
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One thing you'll find is that you are in control of the load on your transmission. How much heat goes in is under the control of your right foot. All the way to the floor and you're at the mercy of the elements - grade, temp, weight, etc. Back off, drop a gear and climb to the top. It's not a race. Brakes work the same way. Give them time to dissipate the heat and fading will be unheard of. Every modern truck out there can bring down 30000 lbs but you might have to do it at 3 mph. Back when I drove truck 15 mph was my personal limit for descending mountains. Never smoked a brake either.

Now is it fun to put all 800 ft-lbs of torque down and blast up the hill? Absolutely. When everything is in your favor and you know it, go for it. The rest of the time be safe.

So the wise guys here on the forum that say to slow down have both experience and knowledge on their side; engineering will back it up. Remember to wave as you pass me while I'm sitting in the right lane.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:55 PM   #20
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Your true tow capacity is the GCWR minus the weight of the truck when ready to tow.
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