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Old 11-18-2014, 10:45 AM   #15
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Lots of good to know information. I for one would only be guessing but would think the snow is on the wet side so when on the road would quickly pack into icy conditions.

Does the highway authority use sand, salt or a combination to deal with the ice on the road? What are the ambient temperatures? How long does the roadway remain icy after a snow event? Does the road become slushy with traffic on it? How soon?

The best thing to do is to remain in place until the road surface is available for the best traction. After that there are too many possibilities for road conditions and vehicle setup to provide a definitive answer. Always error on the side of caution and you should be fine. Chains may be excessive for the conditions but will provide the maximum traction if you have to travel. (I do not like chains for while they are effective they are difficult to install and remove. An improperly installed chain is not effective and can cause serious damage.)
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:59 AM   #16
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I have driven Hundreds of thousands of miles in big rigs and MHs. I have never seen a trailer with chains. Only on the driver axles.

Living in Minnesota I have driven south many times in snow and ice to escape the Winter here. I always towed a vehicle with a tow dolly and surge brakes. Never a problem. Just take your time and be mindful of the conditions.

Personally I would not travel where I have to chain up my RV. Chains sometimes break or come loose, and you cannot imagine the damage a flailing chain will cause to your rig.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:59 PM   #17
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When Chains are Required in CA.

http://dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/ChainRequire.pdf
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:53 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by kenn_chan View Post
How would this be any different than an electronic brake? Other than ease of adjustments for conditions. My plan was to adjust it slighlty lighter than normal and test it a bit before getting deep into the switchbacks
If you must tow on snow or ice, then you do not want the trailer brakes to lock up, no matter how hard you step on the brake pedal or how slick the ice. With electric brakes you can adjust the "gain" so the trailer brakes well not lock up on slick ice or snow surface. If the trailer brakes lock, you lose all control of the trailer. If your trailer brakes are also adjustable so they will not lock up, then they'll probably work okay.

Quote:
I do not have access to a walmart to by RV specific anti iceing compounds for the water lines and septic tank.
Any business in Japan that sells and services RV trailers should sell RV antifreeze. If not you can buy it on-line from some source such as

50 Below RV Antifreeze, Gallon - Camco 32847 - Winterizing - Camping World

Quote:
...unit is danish made and designed for four seasons but I think a recoat would be good for the bottom. It currently ahs a rubberized type of paint coating but it looks a little rough so I was thining a recoat, but what to use.
Same answer as above. Most RV trailers now come with a "rubber" roof covering. That rubber roof must be stripped and recoated every few years. If the RV dealers in Japan don't do that maintenance, then you must do some research and prepare to do it yourself (DIY). I stripped and recoated the rubber roof on my 2000 fifth wheel RV trailer last Spring. It required about three days of hardwork, but I got it done. If the bottom of your trailer is covered with that same rubber coating, then you would use the same rubber DIY kit to recoat it. If you cannot find the kit at an RV dealer in Japan, then order it from the States.

Dicor Rubber Roof Primer/Cleaner, Quart - Dicor RP-CRP-Q - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World

Dicor White Rubber Roof Acrylic Coating, Gallon - Dicor RP-CRC-1 - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World

Three steps.

Step 1. Use lots of soapy water, stiff brush, and hard work, and get it squeeky clean. Rinse well. Allow to dry overnight

Step 2. Use the primer/cleaner above and follow directions. You strip off all the old coating and get down to the black rubber base. On an RV roof, the black EDPM rubber is usually coated (painted?) with white coating, but the underside of your trailer may be some other color. Allow to dry overnight again.

Step 3. Use the coating (rubber paint) above and follow directions. Put on at least two coats, and if you have some left over, then put on another coat.
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:03 PM   #19
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My plans for towing in the snow are simple, PARK IT.
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Old 11-19-2014, 05:54 AM   #20
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thanks for the tip on the brakes :)

[QUOTE=SmokeyWren;2316085]If you must tow on snow or ice, then you do not want the trailer brakes to lock up, no matter how hard you step on the brake pedal or how slick the ice. With electric brakes you can adjust the "gain" so the trailer brakes well not lock up on slick ice or snow surface. If the trailer brakes lock, you lose all control of the trailer. If your trailer brakes are also adjustable so they will not lock up, then they'll probably work okay.

Any business in Japan that sells and services RV trailers should sell RV antifreeze. If not you can buy it on-line from some source such as

Same answer as above. Most RV trailers now come with a "rubber" roof covering. That rubber roof must be stripped and recoated every few years. If the RV dealers in Japan don't do that maintenance, then you must do some research and prepare to do it yourself (DIY). I stripped and recoated the rubber roof on my 2000 fifth wheel RV trailer last Spring. It required about three days of hardwork, but I got it done. If the bottom of your trailer is covered with that same rubber coating, then you would use the same rubber DIY kit to recoat it. If you cannot find the kit at an RV dealer in Japan, then order it from the States.
QUOTE]


You are going to laugh, but I had to special order the solution for the toilet , being that 99% of the japanese never use the toilets in their campers (according to all of the RV places I went nobody wants to clean them) they do not stock it

And none of the campers that I have seen to date have a shower or hot water heater, here you just go to the closest hotsprings, as they are everywhere. The best ones are out in the boonies to start with, many campsites and tourist attractions are built around hotsprings, thats just the way it is here.

the brake situation is now noted and will be checked accordingly. My TT (caravan) is light enough that I don't really need brakes with normal driving, so I can dial them back to zero or damn near so if necessary, thanks for the tips.

currently I order most of my stuff off of amazon, or online, so I will look into some of the coatings you listed, my roof is stainless steel painted white form the factory, but I am sure that the dicor might work well for the bottom of the camper.

ken
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:26 PM   #21
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I have to say something on trailer brakes on slippery roads, you DO want to be able to lock your brakes WHEN YOU want to, manually. If you've ever looked out your mirror and saw just the side of your trailer, (I Have) the only way to bring it back without dumping it is to use your trailer brakes only, and if you've "dialed back" the brake controller you will not have time to recover. There's a little more to this then just that, but nobody can teach you what to do in an emergency on the internet. I speak from 45yrs of experience of driving coast to coast with 18 wheels or more.
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:36 PM   #22
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Good luck ordering anything from Camping World abroad, I gave up in the end trying to get them to deliver to the UK so you may have similar problems to Japan. And even if you can watch out for customs charges!!
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:04 PM   #23
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I have to say something on trailer brakes on slippery roads, you DO want to be able to lock your brakes WHEN YOU want to, manually. If you've ever looked out your mirror and saw just the side of your trailer, (I Have) the only way to bring it back without dumping it is to use your trailer brakes only, and if you've "dialed back" the brake controller you will not have time to recover.
If you lock the trailer brakes when the trailer is crosswise on ice with no traction, you will not recover but just get into deeper trouble. You want to apply all the trailer braking you can without the brakes locking. Maybe with lots of practice you can do that with the manual braking lever on your brake controller, but I'm not that skilled. So I set my brake controller using the slickest surface I am likely to encounter on the road, then set the gain to apply the brakes but not lock the brakes.

Quote:
There's a little more to this then just that, but nobody can teach you what to do in an emergency on the internet.
Agree.

BTW, I've had an unrestricted driver license for 62 years. I drove my first commercial semi-tractor/trailer about 57 years ago. I've lived in Maine, Nebraska, and Colorado, as well as my retirement home in Texas, so I've done my share of ice driving. But I plan ahead so I don't have to do it any more.
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Old 11-19-2014, 05:42 PM   #24
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Well I'm not going to get into a p__ing contest of I've done this or you've done, that I just hate to see the OP get false info. (I also know what works, I've done it) when some tells someone to back off their backs thats just wrong IMO
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Old 11-19-2014, 05:43 PM   #25
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sorry supposed to say brakes not backs
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Old 11-19-2014, 07:57 PM   #26
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Towing on snow, if I saw the side of the trailer in the side mirror, it just might be too late for any reaction...
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:39 PM   #27
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Towing on snow, if I saw the side of the trailer in the side mirror, it just might be too late for any reaction...
Joe
At that point it's time to pull over, clean out your pants, and wait for tow truck and better roads.
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:46 PM   #28
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Smokey, Harley thank you both for your suggestions, I think the difference would be probably in the equipment that you both used or learned on at that time. I think that I now need to take the camper up close to fuji and do some controlled tests to see how this is going to react in the snow, prior to taking the family out.

Anyhoo's I thank all that have contributed to this thread and questions of mine, and I will take all above into and under consideration.

Thanks

Kenn
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