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Old 05-13-2016, 03:56 PM   #15
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So I just went down to a RV dealer looking at a couple of used RVs. The salesman told me if your trucks GVWR is 6600 then you can get any trailer that has a GVWR up to 6600. I'm going to listen to you guys and not go over 5000 lbs though since I know I should never trust a salesman!
The problem with "their" 6600 is "dry" weight. YOU can have a "wet" and "loaded" trailer up to 6600. I don't know what type of camping you are planning, but where I go, I have to carry water because I cannot always fill up at destination. That's 40 gallons or about 320 lbs. added right there. Then you have the weight of your batteries, filled propane tanks, and everything you put into your trailer (food, clothes, chairs, equipment, etc.)
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Old 05-13-2016, 04:00 PM   #16
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Here is a link to the P2 Brake controller I got. There is a video for installation into a 2006 Tundra. That video will show what you need to do whichever controller you get.

https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Contr...sha/90885.html
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Old 05-13-2016, 04:27 PM   #17
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Since my truck came with a towing package and I already have a 7-pin connector would I still need to get a brake controller?
Short answer, YES!

The 7-pin connector allows for battery charging, etc. on a trailer. A dealer, unless specifically requested, will not supply a controller due to costs and buyer specific requirements. (Just look under steering wheel bay.)
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Old 05-13-2016, 05:49 PM   #18
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Thanks for sending that video over I just watched it the brake controller looks pretty easy to install. So if I just plugged the trailer into the 7-pin connector without having a brake controller what would happen? Are we saying that the trailer lights would work but the trailer brakes would technically be connected to the 7-pin connector but they would never be triggered without the brake controller?
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Old 05-13-2016, 06:07 PM   #19
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Are we saying that the trailer lights would work but the trailer brakes would technically be connected to the 7-pin connector but they would never be triggered without the brake controller?

Exactly.

A lamp (analogy) may be plugged into a wall socket, but the light won't come on unless you turn on the switch. A brake controller is the switch (actually more like a rheostat) and the brakes on the trailer won't work unless the controller is activated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmith95610
So I just went down to a RV dealer looking at a couple of used RVs. The salesman told me if your trucks GVWR is 6600 then you can get any trailer that has a GVWR up to 6600.
You know it's just a real shame that rv dealers have inexperienced and uninformed employees handing out false info that could quite possibly get a customer in serious trouble. It's answers like the one above that give the rv salesmen such a bad name.

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Old 05-13-2016, 06:07 PM   #20
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Thanks for sending that video over I just watched it the brake controller looks pretty easy to install. So if I just plugged the trailer into the 7-pin connector without having a brake controller what would happen? Are we saying that the trailer lights would work but the trailer brakes would technically be connected to the 7-pin connector but they would never be triggered without the brake controller?
Correct! The wiring that goes to the 7-pin connector would not receive a "signal" for your brakes until you have a controller connected to your factory installed harness. You would have lights and a "hot" wire to charge your onboard batteries.
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:52 AM   #21
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Some of you mentioned a hitch weight of 50 or 171 lbs. My current hitch that I use for towing my small aluminum boat does not weight anywhere close to that. Would the weight you were referencing be for getting a weight distribution system like one of the below?

Yes, except both of those are cheap WD hitches with cheap sway bars for sway control. Weight-carrying (WC) ball mounts are not nearly as heavy as a weight-distributing (WD) ball mount. My WC ball mounts weigh only around 20 pounds, but my Reese Strait-Line hitch is closer to 50 pounds, and my ProPride hitch is well over 100 pounds.

When discussing the weight of the hitch, that does not include the weight of the receiver that is bolted to the frame of the truck. It includes the shank that goes into that receiver, along with the ball mount and any other parts of the hitch.


Quote:
If so would that be needed for towing a trailer like this since it is close to the maximum weight for my truck? Then also would a sway system be recommended as well?
Rule of thumb is that any trailer with tongue weight of 500 pounds or more requires a weight-distributing (WD) hitch. Average tongue weight is 13% of gross trailer weight, so any trailer with GVWR over 3,846 requires a WD hitch.

Anyone with at least two brain cells to rub together wants excellent sway control. Not the inadequate sway control provided by so-called sway bars, but excellent sway control.

WD hitches come in three levels. Cheap, good or excellent. Cheap includes any hitch that has sway bars, or no sway control at all. Most brands sell cheap hitches. Don't buy one.

Good includes the following, which list for around $800 to $1000 and you can buy online for about half that including the shank.
Reese Strait-Line
Equal-I-Zer
Blue Ox
Curt TruTrack
Husky CenterLine

Equil-I-Zer and Blue Ox don't sell cheap hitches. But if you decide on a Reese, Curt or Husky, then be sure it is a Strait-Line or TruTrack or CenterLine

Excellent includes the old Hensley Arrow and the newer design of that hitch called the ProPride. (I have a ProPride on my TT and a Strait-Line on my cargo trailer.)

Some of the above come with either trunnion bars or round bars. Always choose the trunnion bars. The round bars go down from the hitch head and reduce clearance between the bottom of the round bars and the road, so they are much more likely to drag on the road over bumps or dips.

PullRite also sells an excellent WD hitch for travel trailers. It installs on the tow vehicle and not on the trailer, so if you update your tow vehicle the old PullRite hitch may not fit your new tow vehicle. Standard PullRite 10K | PullRite Hitches
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:50 PM   #22
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SmokeyWren - Thanks for all of the info on the weight distributing hitches. I'll take a look at some of those.
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