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Old 10-29-2013, 10:43 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Greytraveler View Post
What puzzles me is I was told by the salesman at the time I purchased our truck that the only difference between the 2500 and 3500 was an extra leaf in the rear springs, lights on the cab and $700. Given that the Dodge ratings show the 2500 at 12,550 and the 3500 at 1,000 more makes me wonder.

For the 2500 and 3500 everything else is the same: engine, transmission, frame, driveline, differential, tires, wheels, brakes, etc. Go figure.
That's exactly true up until 2013 when Ram redesigned the frame on the 3500. I have a 12 2500 myself and yes the only difference between a 2500 and 3500 is the spring pack. That's why I bought the 2500 since it's the same as a 3500. When I bought the 12 2500 dealers around me were offering close to $10,000 in rebates. The truck I found on the lot was a 2500. Same CTD and tranny. Heck the 3500 DRW has the same CTD and tranny, same axle innards, just changed up for the duals. I don't care about GVW, I use the RAWR as my gage. I also look at what a 12 3500 3.73 will tow and haul and that's what I use for decision making. I'll add either air bags or Timbrens if needed.
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
That's exactly true up until 2013 when Ram redesigned the frame on the 3500. I have a 12 2500 myself and yes the only difference between a 2500 and 3500 is the spring pack. That's why I bought the 2500 since it's the same as a 3500. When I bought the 12 2500 dealers around me were offering close to $10,000 in rebates. The truck I found on the lot was a 2500. Same CTD and tranny. Heck the 3500 DRW has the same CTD and tranny, same axle innards, just changed up for the duals. I don't care about GVW, I use the RAWR as my gage. I also look at what a 12 3500 3.73 will tow and haul and that's what I use for decision making. I'll add either air bags or Timbrens if needed.
Well the sticker on the door is different as well, lol.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:48 PM   #17
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No re. truck in stock - was just shopping at the time and really wanted a Ford since have always had Fords. The problems with the new diesel made me look elsewhere. Glad I did although the Ford cab is still my favorite.
What problems with the NEW Ford diesel. The 6.7L was introduced in 2011 model year and has had very few problems. My late build 2012 has not had an issue other than some rust on the front brake caliper pins (easily fixed by Ford) and an o-ring on the A/C TXV.

The truck is a real pleasure to drive and no way would I consider a SRW for this trailer.

And the DRW does NOT use the same axle as the SRW.

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Old 11-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #18
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Some of you just don't get it. Yes there is number on the door jam and you say that can't be changed. But you can make many physical changes that do in fact increase the tow capacities. If you go to a dealer as I did with my Ford dealer, and put two computers side by side and compare the 250 to the 350 srw there is little difference. I got a 10000 discount and rebate on my 250 and spent 1800 to convert to a 350 suspension. My pin weight of 2500 only drops my box height one inch. It would be like a speedometer going to 60mph, would that mean it wouldn't go any faster.
I am under on rear axle, front axle, combined weight, and over 600 on the sticker weight of 10000. But as stated I have the suspension of a 11500.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:57 PM   #19
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Oh, I get it all right. I hear it all the time. I just don't buy the "backyard" conversions running over their GVWRs or GAWRs. Why not just buy the truck that's rated for your needs to begin with?

Rusty
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:05 PM   #20
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I knew you would speak up right away as usaual. NO backyard conversion, done very professionally by my Ford dealer, can't wait until tomorrow to show them your comment.
Right I could and can afford or buy anything I want. I did it my way.
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Old 11-14-2013, 04:36 AM   #21
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So your friendly Ford dealer changed your driver's door GVWR/GAWR sticker as well when they "converted" your truck to an F350?

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Old 11-14-2013, 07:55 AM   #22
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My issue is when the SRW owner tries to use a 3/4 ton because it is like an F350/3500 when is all reality they should be using a DRW.

Like Rusty said, why not buy the right tool rated for what you really need...not some make shift crutch.

I do not subscribe to the use a shotgun to kill a fly rather than a properly rated fly swatter. Get the right tool to begin with.

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Old 11-14-2013, 08:37 AM   #23
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You guys are the greatest, so over opinionated. The door sticker makes no difference to me. With my fiver I don't need drw, only 12000lbs. I have the right tool. We went from a Newmar Mountain Aire pulling a Chevy Colorado crewcab 4x4 to the current setup, money has never been a problem, will never in my lifetime spent it all, retired at 51, 16 years ago.
I don't anything about a shotgun, only bow hunt.
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:07 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by iawoody2 View Post
Some of you just don't get it. Yes there is number on the door jam and you say that can't be changed. But you can make many physical changes that do in fact increase the tow capacities. If you go to a dealer as I did with my Ford dealer, and put two computers side by side and compare the 250 to the 350 srw there is little difference. I got a 10000 discount and rebate on my 250 and spent 1800 to convert to a 350 suspension. My pin weight of 2500 only drops my box height one inch. It would be like a speedometer going to 60mph, would that mean it wouldn't go any faster.
I am under on rear axle, front axle, combined weight, and over 600 on the sticker weight of 10000. But as stated I have the suspension of a 11500.
In a similar vein my 2500 HD 2007 Duramax, when towing my 5er is 460 over on gvwr, but 470 under on the front, 624 under on the back, 5280 under on the GCWR, 8720 under on the trailer tow rating. Well under on the tires also.

So in a similar vein, I don't worry about it very much, but I have shifted EVERYTHING out of the truck and put it in the back of the 5er, which has to much hitch weight anyway (24%) and brought the gvwr down to under 100 lbs.

Am I safer with about 250 lbs of stuff sitting in the back of the camper instead of in the back of the truck? That would be a firm NO, but gosh I am meeting the spec. IMO it would have been better to add a spring or bag to the back of the truck and say it is good.

Common sense (I am an automotive engineer by original training) and professional judgment has a place in this discussion so that posters can have the benefit of opinions to evaluate their own situation, but I think the level if pedantics and bashing is unnecessary. The specs are important, personal experience is important, lets leave it at that.
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:39 AM   #25
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I knew you would speak up right away as usaual. NO backyard conversion, done very professionally by my Ford dealer, can't wait until tomorrow to show them your comment.
Right I could and can afford or buy anything I want. I did it my way.
I have two extra leaves
new brakes and new tires
all new u joints and front wheel bearings
4" Performance exhaust
Gauges for EGT/tranny temp/ boost
Cold air intake
Smarty JR set to tow
and it still does not change the sticker on the door if I have an at fault accident over my GVWR OR GCVWR?

I walk that line and drive accordingly but would feel better if the stickers matched the loading, just me. I am looking to purchase a new truck that does just that. I do get bashed by the weight police freaking over the newer SRW trucks that are specked out to handle my weights but I guess it is what stress level you want to ride with. Opinions are like you know what and when expressed you will always seem to get a counter opinion so hope your skin is thick.

As they say good luck and happy RVing.
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:44 AM   #26
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I give up. I just make sure I give SRW trucks pulling BIG 5ers a wide berth.

And yes, I am opinionated for engineering reasons. But it appears that others are opinionated for other reasons.

I worked too many years as an engineer and making a living from proper design and living by the numbers.

Ken
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Old 11-14-2013, 10:06 AM   #27
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I give up. I just make sure I give SRW trucks pulling BIG 5ers a wide berth.

And yes, I am opinionated for engineering reasons. But it appears that others are opinionated for other reasons.

I worked too many years as an engineer and making a living from proper design and living by the numbers.

Ken
Don't give up we need all the facts, and your views are valid, as you know.
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Old 11-14-2013, 10:14 AM   #28
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I give up. I just make sure I give SRW trucks pulling BIG 5ers a wide berth.

And yes, I am opinionated for engineering reasons. But it appears that others are opinionated for other reasons.

I worked too many years as an engineer and making a living from proper design and living by the numbers.

Ken
Basing opinion on engineering as opposed to legal issues are different.
Up until 2013 all 2500-3500 Rams were identical down to the last bolt except for the rear spring pack. If someone changes the rear spring pack from a 2500 to 3500 they then have as far as engineering goes the same truck. Only thing that never changes is the door sticker. I have yet to hear of anyone being cited for being over the trucks GVW.
With all the TT/5'ers being towed out there it's simply amazing that you very rarely ever see one in an accident. How many times do you see something posted about sway? How many videos are out on YouTube showing some guys trailer swaying all over then wrecking? You never see a video with some guy fighting the steering wheel cause his truck is a few hundred pounds over GVW.
IMO overloading a TT/5'er to the max is far worse than having a moderately overloaded truck. An ill handling TT will be more dangerous than a truck that's a few hundred lbs over GVW.
FWIW I tow about 100-200lbs over GVW. I'm under RAWR by 1000+/- lbs and under GCVWR by 4000+lbs. Hardly dangerous.
Change my rear gears from 3.73 to 4.10 and I'm even further under GCVWR.
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