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Old 08-04-2016, 08:57 PM   #15
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For a 26' tt you can start with 1000 lbs of stuff. Our longer 2 week trips you might bump that up another 100 or two. Our trip to Alaska in our 26' tt (hybrid) I had the trailer weighed at the first Cat Scale. My dry is 4400 wet for our AK trip loaded to the hilt including 52 gallons of water was hair under 6000. So 1600 of stuff. Extras included. Two cases of canning jam, extra bottled water, extra cold weather clothes, assorted gold panning equipment, extra rain coats, extra flashlights, mosquitos sprays, fishing poles plus extra food for our 3-1/2 month trip.

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Old 08-04-2016, 10:56 PM   #16
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If you have 2178lbs for CCC you should be fine. The 5.0 may need to be wound out some if you hit the mtns, but they sound nice when wound out so that's a plus.
Get a good WDH with built in sway and go for it.
As far as loading up the TT goes. Unless you have the storage inside or outside it's really hard to load more than 1000lbs in one. Some items will go in the truck because you'll run out of room or the TT won't have large enough storage areas.

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Old 08-05-2016, 06:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by DanFromGC View Post
I trust the manufacturer specs and stick under them. Others think they are wildly over stated and they subtract some weight for safety.
Depends on which spec. GCWR, GVWR and GAWRs are accurate. They are developed by Professional Engineers (PEs) in chassis engineering. It's the calculated specs - tow rating and payload - developed by the marketing department that are overstated.

Real-world tow rating is GCWR minus the weight of the wet and loaded tow vehicle. Real world payload capacity available for hitch weight is GVWR of the tow vehicle minus the weight of the wet and loaded tow vehicle. The published tow ratings and payload capacity use the shipping weight of the empty truck to calculate the tow rating and payload capacity. Since you don't travel in an empty truck, ignore those weight ratings and use GVWR as your limiter as to how much trailer you can tow without being overloaded.

GCWR assumes that you don't exceed GVWR. But in 99% of tow vehicles, you will exceed GVWR before you get close to the GCWR. If you use GCWR without also using GVWR, then you're going to be overloaded.

Ford (and I'm sure the others too) state very clearly in their towing guide that you should NEVER exceed the GCWR, GVWR or GAWRs of the tow vehicle. With dozens of CAT scale tickets to analyze, I've noticed that the GVWR of the tow vehicle is the limiter. If you don't exceed the GVWR of the tow vehicle, then with a properly loaded trailer you won't exceed the other weight ratings either.
Grumpy ole man with over 50 years towing experience. Now my heaviest trailer is a 7,000-pound enclosed cargo trailer, RV is a 5,600 pound Skyline Nomad Joey 196S, and my tow vehicle is a 2012 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost SuperCrew.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:35 PM   #18
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All this technical info is really interesting. You've got your GCWRs, and your GVWRs and then don't forget your GAWRs. This entire situation confuses and frustrates me.

So, I went to the trailer manufacturer with an open cheque book and said, "I found a trailer that you manufacture that I really want to buy. When you designed and built this trailer, what size of truck did you want to be used to properly pull it?"

The trailer manufacturer told me, "You just go out there and buy any of the available 1/2 tons and you're good to go! This trailer is 1/2 ton towable!"

So, I went to a truck manufacturer with an open cheque book and the specs for the trailer I wanted to buy and said, "What truck do you want me to buy to happily and properly tow this trailer?"

The truck manufacturer tells me, "You just buy this 1/2 ton truck and you're good to go!"

So, I buy the recommended 1/2 ton truck and then buy the recommended 1/2 ton towable trailer, hook the truck up to the trailer, only to find that the trailer is too big for my 1/2 ton, or my 1/2 ton is too small for my trailer.

Somebody, or everybody lied to me. Which is hilariously ironic, because they could have sold me absolutely anything. I talked to them with an open cheque book. Either the trailer guys or the truck guys lied to me and took advantage of me. To what end, I do not understand.

This makes me think that one of them, either the trailer manufacturer or the truck manufacturer, I should never do business with ever again. The problem is, I can't figure out which one lied to me. Maybe they both did.


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Old 08-06-2016, 07:48 AM   #19
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Do you want the truth? The salesmen did not lie! Shocking? No not really. The responsibility of matching your tow vehicle to the trailer is YOURS the consumer and no one else. You must educate yourself on towing and what your Tow vehicle is capable of so you can make an informed purchase. You are in good company here, and this where you will find the answers. Now back to your question on cargo. I have a Jayco fifth wheel and dry weights are 7300 with 1300 lbs pin weight. The loaded scale weights are 8400 and 1600 respectively. The folks on here say add 1000 lbs to dry weight and it's a good starting point and they are right. The real world towing capacity "should" be the GVWR of the trailer but if you are always under this number then make sure your truck is matched or under your scaled trailer weight.
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:49 AM   #20
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I find that any of the 1/2 ton trailers are truly 1/2 towable. EMPTY. They aren't lying to anyone. They're just misleading you. Just like when the truck MFGs tell you, you can carry xxxxlbs or tow xxxxxxlbs. Everything has to align perfectly for all of it to come together. In the real world that will never happen.
And unfortunately both parties are trying to sell a product and the sale people are trying to make a buck off you, so that's where the misleading part comes in.
If the RV sales people were more upfront about all this then there would be fewer unsatisfied buyers.
I've bought 3 trailers in my short RV'ing time. The 1st two dealers were honest enough to make sure I didn't get too much trailer. The last one didn't make a difference as by then I knew my limits. So there are some good dealers out there.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:24 AM   #21
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Here's my scenario for anyone who's interested. Two years ago we knew we wanted a TT, but needed a new truck first. Bought a 2014 Chev 1500, about 1700 pounds of payload. We then buy a TT. Find out TW is about 850 pounds. With a large family, we were right on the edge. I upgrade to a Max Tow, then decide we want to travel more which means more gear. Upgraded to a 3/4 ton.

Now I've discovered that we are way good on payload and the stability and braking ability of the new 3/4 ton truck is just AMAZING! Gas mileage sucks, but we had to give up something.

My point is that payload, braking, and payload are all important and the more you travel the more need for one of those items can change dramatically.

I truly believe 1/2 ton trucks are fully capability, when matched to the right TT, the right family size, and the right traveling desires.
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:42 PM   #22
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Many people buy a half ton truck and a trailer with a dry weight that is just barely within the limits and then add a canopy, generator, firewood and tools to the truck bed plus load the trailer for fulltiming and wonder why the truck has no suspension left and looks like a low rider. For less than $1000 they could have bought a 3/4 ton and been happy.
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:02 PM   #23
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How about this: You have the truck, so get the whole family in there, drive to a scale, and weight it.

If you know the numbers, then you can do the correct math. Everything you would want to bring with you the weights can be found: fishing gear, a generator and gas for it, etc., etc. Stop playing the numbers game with unknown figures and go weigh the truck loaded up. You've got nothing to lose.

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