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Old 09-01-2018, 09:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
Benched as a trailer lighting tech????????????

I'm a telecommunications technician with over 40 years in the businees and over 50 years in electronics.
I spent more than a few years as the guy a pro called "I'm at the scalehouse out of service with light issues. Got to get it fixed so I can deliver the load"

Quote:
I own an electronics repair center where we deal with hundreds of vehicles every year. "Scratching a ground" is often done with a dremel before using a screw and star washer to install a good ground.
I can agree with this, if you are using the chassis for ground. But what you posted did nothing to check the ground, and you are only using that clean spot for test;
"Your symptoms scream of a bad ground.

Use a test light and NOT a voltmeter. Leave the trailer disconnected.

Make a clean ground on the frame. Grind or sandpaper if needed.

Clip test light to that ground. Now with note pad in hand test each pin of the rv."


Quote:
Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
The reason for recommending a test light for a novice is a digital meter can read full voltage but not have enough voltage to light a bulb.
And a LED test light will sometimes light when not enough amps to light a bulb.

Quote:
For example, You can put the negative lead of your digital meter on the battery post and then with your positive lead between your fingers on one hand then touch the positive post of the battery you can literally make the meter read the full battery voltage.
There is not enough current to light a bulb.
My meters (Harbor Freight give-ways, did not get out the good stuff) reads about 0.5 volts lower thru my hand than between posts. Have not tested, but might light a LED

Quote:
So it is easy to get fooled with a meter. My 12 volt test lights live right next to one of my meters. If it is light bulb issues the test light is my go to first test.
What tester I grab depends on what problem I see. One lamp out? Grab a test light. Now, if I get out and see a group out, or some light when shouldn't I unplug the trailer, and plug it into my tool truck. (Had both kinds of 7, a 5, and 4 all on the back) If the trailer lights worked, turn to TV. (Checking the trailer first gave the auto-reset breakers time to reset. Leaving trailer lights on while testing truck would show not kicking mine. I had a box that had lamps and resisters that would simulate a trailer. Also had a 6V dry cell battery so if I was not getting power I could backfeed, and hunt for the lower voltage to trace. (This box could be hooked to ether 7 blade RV style, or the 7 pin used on commercial equipment. I built it in the late '90s) On a trailer that used 4 wire, I would use a Volt meter to test the TV.
And sometime in the '80s it was discovered that bodies and frames did not always work good for ground long term, the ground side needs to be wired as good as the hot side. And shortly after, it was found that there was less chance of short if the body/chassis is above ground.

YC1 might know how to fix it. But from his post, he is leaving out trouble shooting steps which could lead to you doing more
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Old 10-13-2018, 11:35 PM   #16
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We finally figured out that the black wire on rv went to white wire on trailer for the ground. Thanks everyone for all the help info and advice
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Old 10-14-2018, 08:11 AM   #17
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Thanks for getting back.

Post 10, line 1.

Can I come off the bench now coach?
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