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Old 07-10-2016, 05:38 PM   #1
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Question Trailer setup question

After doing a ton of reading, I decided to go used for my first trailer. I just brought home our 2004 Nash25s. It came with a WD hitch w/round bars and a friction style sway control bar. I know I need to make adjustment to it for my truck. But my question is do I even need the WD bars? They're 1000 lb. bars. This trailer hardly made the back of my truck go down. OK, it did sag a bit, but the rear of my truck still seems higher than the front after connecting everything up.
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Old 07-10-2016, 05:56 PM   #2
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It sounds like you are in pretty good shape with an empty trailer. Now load it up with everything you will need to actually use the camper and take another look.
I always adjusted the bars so the truck and trailer looked level when loaded and shot for about 4-500# of tongue weight on the hitch.
These bars will decrease the pitching of the trailer when going over a less than perfectly smooth road. You are distributing the weight between the tow vehicle and the towed vehicle. That is where the name "Weight Distributing Hitch" comes from.
Be sure all the pressures in the tires on both the tow vehicle and the towed vehicle are correct before making any adjustments.
Lynn
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Old 07-10-2016, 05:57 PM   #3
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You need to go to the hitch manufacturers website and get the proper instructions. Alternately, go to eTrailer.com and you should be able to find the instructions there. The weight of your hitch determines the bars to be used, just a guess, but 1000 lb seems rather heavy looking at the photo. After you do the above, report back with any questions.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:19 PM   #4
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I would use the WD hitch.

The pictures make it look like your trailer is nose high. It's best if it tows flat. You can verify by measuring frame to ground at the front and rear of the trailer. Most shanks are adjustable. When I changed tow vehicles from a Suburban to a Ram, I had to buy a new shank to get trailer nose down.
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:17 PM   #5
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Not sure which hitch you have but some have an adjustable hitch head angle. This can be adjusted to decrease or increase your spring bar tension.
Go to the Equal-I-Zer website and follow their hitch set up instructions, they are thorough and should work for you.
Weigh your truck on scales and measure from the ground to the bottom lip of the wheel flare. Adjust your hitch head down to lower the front of the trailer. Follow the instructions on the website and you can't go wrong.
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:06 PM   #6
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Mine looks like this


The brand name on mine is "Drawtite" as best as I can tell.
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Old 07-12-2016, 10:00 AM   #7
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I rarely used wd bars. I would adjust the hitch so that the trlr is level and go. Make sure you load trlr properly to keep tongue weight acceptable. What i found by not using the bars is that everytime i stopped there was some knowitall would lecture me that inwas supposed to use them. I never had sway and handling was great. I also towed two bumper pulls for several years as well.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:20 AM   #8
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I adjusted it all the way down. It is better, but I think I might do an axle flip. I'm leaving for my first trip tomorrow and I'll see how things work out.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:49 PM   #9
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I just ordered the flip kit from etailer so it should be here when I get home.
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:07 PM   #10
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Why do an axle flip? The truck should be fairly level and the trailer should be level when towing but both don't need to be at the same height.
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1361 View Post
I just ordered the flip kit from etailer so it should be here when I get home.
You do not need to flip axles. All you need is this:

Curt Weight Distribution Shank - 14" Long - 5" or 7" Drop - 1,500 lbs TW Curt Accessories and Parts C17122

Return the flip kit and buy the drop shank.

When we upgraded to a 2003 RAM 2500 4x4 years ago, our trailer was way nose high when hitched to the truck with the shank we had. Bought the longer drop shank and all was good. Raising the trailer by flipping the axles raises its center of gravity and makes it more unstable when towing. Also, you will need a step stool to use the stairs to the entry door.
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:32 PM   #12
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I decided on doing an axle flip for more ground clearance and to level the trailer out. The incline on my driveway is just steep enough to make the rear of the trailer drag as I first start backing it in. Not to mention the added clearance will be a huge plus while boon-docking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drdarrin View Post
Why do an axle flip? The truck should be fairly level and the trailer should be level when towing but both don't need to be at the same height.
Quote:
Originally Posted by donnandon View Post
You do not need to flip axles. All you need is this:

Curt Weight Distribution Shank - 14" Long - 5" or 7" Drop - 1,500 lbs TW Curt Accessories and Parts C17122

Return the flip kit and buy the drop shank.

When we upgraded to a 2003 RAM 2500 4x4 years ago, our trailer was way nose high when hitched to the truck with the shank we had. Bought the longer drop shank and all was good. Raising the trailer by flipping the axles raises its center of gravity and makes it more unstable when towing. Also, you will need a step stool to use the stairs to the entry door.
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