Community Forums

Tireman9 · 05-29-2016, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatchee

If I understand the chart you reference it is based on market share not quality....or am I reading it incorrectly?

Couple observations on the quality of tires.

If a company doesn't put their name on the tire, or the name of their subsideary I have to wonder why no pride in the product.

If there is no multi-year warranty as standard on the tire is that sending the message that they do not trust the quality of their tires?

If you can't find a tire store where the brand of tire you are considering is not on any of the tire brand signs on the store front why is the dealer not letting people know he is proud of the products he sells?

Market share has some baring on Tier but Market share is also an indication of the general level of acceptance of a tire brand. If people have not had good luck with a brand they usually do not buy more which does not help market share grow. If tires work well then people will buy and maybe even recommend a brand to others so market share grows.

Tireman9 · 05-29-2016, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airbiscuit

Is it ok to change out your own tires or do you need to bring to a dealer? I currently have a spare on my fifth wheel with a brand new tire and rim ready to be put on. I'm just not sure if a regular floor jack is strong enough (or safe) to use on the trailer.

I have a regular floor jack rated at "2 ton" 4,000# and have used it a lot to change tires on axles with 2000 - 2200# load.

I use 10 ton bottle jack on my Class-C Rv rear axle that has 9500# on it. I do jack on concrete pad with parking brake set and wheel chocks. I do not work under a vehicle without using jack stands rated for the load.

If inflating tire that needs more than 65 psi and definately if more than 80 psi I suggest a dealer with a "tire cage". Also if the tire has suffered ANY damage a cage is a good precaution for initial inflation.

Airbiscuit · 05-30-2016, 06:27 AM

Just bought a 6 ton bottle jack that should do the job. Next question is, should I attach the fiver to the tow vehicle before changing out a tire? I'm thinking yes so as to not cause an imbalance and possible damage to the auto leveler jacks which are down.

SmokeyWren · 05-30-2016, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airbiscuit

Just bought a 6 ton bottle jack that should do the job. Next question is, should I attach the fiver to the tow vehicle before changing out a tire?

Not necessary. The landing gear should be sufficient to hold up the front of the trailer, and the trailer suspension plus the jack can lift up the rear of the trailer enough to replace a trailer tire/wheel.

Quote:

I'm thinking yes so as to not cause an imbalance and possible damage to the auto leveler jacks which are down.

I don't know much about auto leveler jacks, but if they are similar to stabilizer jacks on my 5er they are not designed to handle the entire weight of the RV. So I'd raise the leveler jacks before I jacked up the axle with a bottle jack.

wingnut60 · 05-30-2016, 08:08 PM

Most of the auto-leveler systems should be able to lift all 4 tires off the ground at the same time--one side would be even less of a load.
Joe

tuffr2 · 05-31-2016, 05:50 AM

I have a 6 point auto level system and used it to lift all 4 tires off the ground.

FaithBowls · 05-31-2016, 07:18 AM

Seems to me the conversation got sidetracked talking avout st vs. Lt. But I notice someone asking about E rated tires. Get into G or H rated tires - more plies and durability. Good advice checking the wheel and axle ratings. Don't use your levelers to change tires. If you don't have jacks, take it to a shop.

Tireman9 · 05-31-2016, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airbiscuit

Just bought a 6 ton bottle jack that should do the job. Next question is, should I attach the fiver to the tow vehicle before changing out a tire? I'm thinking yes so as to not cause an imbalance and possible damage to the auto leveler jacks which are down.

Ya I know off track but IMO you should always have trailer attached to TV with TV parking brakes set. last thing you need especially with small footprint bottle jack is for trailer to roll a couple inches when the tire is off.

Tireman9 · 05-31-2016, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FaithBowls

Seems to me the conversation got sidetracked talking avout st vs. Lt. But I notice someone asking about E rated tires. Get into G or H rated tires - more plies and durability. Good advice checking the wheel and axle ratings. Don't use your levelers to change tires. If you don't have jacks, take it to a shop.

Higher letters E>F>G>H means more able to carry higher inflation due to total body and belt strength and since it is the air that supports the load that is what is normally wanted. If you read the sidewall of your tires you can learn the material and actual number of ply or layers of cord material.

Think of it this way. If you were suspended over a 200' cliff would you rather have 10 pieces of string rated at 18# each or 3 cords rated at 70# ea or one steel cord rated at 300# holding you up?

For tires on trailers, I suggest you have the tire rating be at least 15% with 25% higher than measured heaviest load on an axle end. I also suggest you inflate to ther sidewall MAX pressure as long as wheel can handle the pressure & load. This increased pressure will help lower the "Interply Shear" on tire belt package

Larry Mac01 · 06-03-2016, 08:54 AM

Was doing some pricing on three specific tires in this thread. This from Tires plus in Central Florida.

All were in the 235/80-85/16 specs. Sailuns and Goodyear were G rated, not sure if Michelins were but fwi the guy behind the counter favored the Michelins greatly over the Goodyears.

Goodyear G614 $305
Michelin xps ribs. $250
Sailun S637 $130

btw he recommended balancing beads ($15 per tire).
Is this a standard practice?

Dr4Film · 06-03-2016, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Mac01

Goodyear G614 $305
Michelin xps ribs. $250
Sailun S637 $130

btw he recommended balancing beads ($15 per tire).
Is this a standard practice?

I run Dyna Beads in all four of my cargo trailer tires plus all 6 of my RV coach tires.

If used in trailer tires the axle needs to be a torsion axle suspension versus a solid axle.

I will NOT use knock-offs beads, only the Dyna Beads.

WRT the tires I will only use Goodyear G-614 G rated tires on my trailer. They seem to get the best reviews overall. BTW, if you decide on Michelin's be alert to early sidewall checking as that's what my Michelin's did on the steer tires of my coach. I have Bridgestone's on the rear with no sidewall checking.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

Crasher · 06-03-2016, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Mac01

Was doing some pricing on three specific tires in this thread. This from Tires plus in Central Florida.

All were in the 235/80-85/16 specs. Sailuns and Goodyear were G rated, not sure if Michelins were but fwi the guy behind the counter favored the Michelins greatly over the Goodyears.

Goodyear G614 $305
Michelin xps ribs. $250
Sailun S637 $130

btw he recommended balancing beads ($15 per tire).
Is this a standard practice?

I was just quoted $250 for the GY G614 and $300 for the Michelin XPS Ribs. I have several packages of beads left from another project and will provide them to the store that will include mounting for four of the G614's @$250/tire. I'm not interested in the Sailun's.

Larry Mac01 · 06-04-2016, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Higher letters E>F>G>H means more able to carry higher inflation due to total body and belt strength and since it is the air that supports the load that is what is normally wanted. If you read the sidewall of your tires you can learn the material and actual number of ply or layers of cord material.

Think of it this way. If you were suspended over a 200' cliff would you rather have 10 pieces of string rated at 18# each or 3 cords rated at 70# ea or one steel cord rated at 300# holding you up?

For tires on trailers, I suggest you have the tire rating be at least 15% with 25% higher than measured heaviest load on an axle end. I also suggest you inflate to ther sidewall MAX pressure as long as wheel can handle the pressure & load. This increased pressure will help lower the "Interply Shear" on tire belt package

So Tireman, what tire would you favor on your RV?

Tireman9 · 06-04-2016, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Mac01

Was doing some pricing on three specific tires in this thread. This from Tires plus in Central Florida.

All were in the 235/80-85/16 specs. Sailuns and Goodyear were G rated, not sure if Michelins were but fwi the guy behind the counter favored the Michelins greatly over the Goodyears.

Goodyear G614 $305
Michelin xps ribs. $250
Sailun S637 $130

btw he recommended balancing beads ($15 per tire).
Is this a standard practice?

If you get the beads from him also get in writing that their use will not void the tire warranty and his store will stand behind and replace the warranty coverage.. You should also get the special valves with the filters so any dust generated from the beads does not damage the TPM sensor.