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Old 03-23-2015, 06:43 PM   #1
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Trailer Tongue

Hello...

I have attached a picture of a trailer tongue. I am interested in this trailer, as it meets most of my needs. The only problem is the tongue. I've felt I need to get a trailer with an extended tongue, but I'm not 100% positive.

Can you please look at this picture, knowing I will be pulling it with the rig in my signature, will this work, or should I hold out for an extended tongue trailer.

Thanks in advance for your help !!
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:53 PM   #2
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Eric,
Depends in how much weight your towing.
Although its short the V- Nose allows for turns and in that case should't be a problem.
Dual wheels I assume .
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:55 PM   #3
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Check out this thread .... should help you out some.....

Tongue length on trailer
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Old 03-27-2015, 08:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oakcreekeric View Post
I have attached a picture of a trailer tongue. I am interested in this trailer, as it meets most of my needs. The only problem is the tongue. I've felt I need to get a trailer with an extended tongue, but I'm not 100% positive.
The big problem with that trailer is that you cannot install a normal weight-distributing (WD) hitch without major surgery to the front of the trailer. If the tongue weight might be more than 500 pounds when loaded, then you don't want to tow it without a WD hitch.

My comments in the other thread on tongue length assumed a flat-nosed trailer. V-nose and U-nose trailers are different. If the seller will include a good WD hitch such as a Reese Strait-Line or Equal-I-Zer installed on the trailer, then no problem. But be sure the seller installs the hitch, not just throws it into the trailer for you to worry about installing it.
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:00 AM   #5
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I guess I should have added some additional information...

The trailer is a 7X14 tandem axle trailer... I will use it mainly to haul my Harley around.. On occasion... I will tow two Harley's...

So, I'm assuming my total weight would be less than 4000 pounds 95% of the time.
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:24 AM   #6
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You can use a draw bar extension. That would get your coupler a little further from the MH.

Extensions reduce tow capacity. Do some research there. Maybe inches would help, but not the huge extensions like used under truck campers for towing. Something that long might just cause problems.

Your MH rear overhang might dictate how far you could extend too.

I like Curt products. That is the hitch that my MH manufacturer used on my rig and I like it. The welds look good and the paint is still intact. That's with one winter trip after a snow storm. I thought the salt would tear it up. The steel on the under carriage of the MH now has surface rust, but the hitch looks brand new.

The likelihood of the coupler height matching the motorhome's hitch height exactly is pretty slim. (while keeping the trailer level) So, you may need a drop bar anyway. That will get you a few inches right there.
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Old 03-27-2015, 11:53 AM   #7
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You can use a draw bar extension. That would get your coupler a little further from the MH.

Extensions reduce tow capacity.
You shouldn't need a hitch extender with a V-nose trailer.

But they are available in lengths from a few inches to a few feet. Note the 12" extension below reduces the weight capacity of your receiver by 50%. So not suitable for your use with a loaded 7x14 cargo trailer.
MaxxTow Hitch Extender for 2" Trailer Hitches - 12" Long MaxxTow Hitch Accessories MT70024

So your best bet for a V-nose trailer is to install a WD hitch, even if it requires surgery on the front of the trailer.

Or better yet, don't get a V-nose or U-nose cargo trailer. Stick with the normal flat-nose design so installation of a WD hitch is not a problem.

My 7x14 Car-Mate cargo trailer is basically a motorcycle trailer with 7,000-pound GVWR. But it has an almost-flat nose, so my Reese Strait-Line WD hitch installed with no problem. I've towed that trailer from west Texas to Oregon and from west Texas to Phoenix loaded close to 7,000 pounds with no problems and no sign of any sway.
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Old 03-27-2015, 07:02 PM   #8
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No offense Smokey Wren, but you are comparing apples to oranges.

If you are towing your trailer with the vehicles in your signature, I can see why you definitely need a WDH. You are about equal on trailer weight versus tow vehicle weight. That is a recipe for disaster without weight distribution.

The OP is proposing to tow a tandem axle trailer (at about 4000 lbs) with a 35-foot motorhome that weighs about 20,000 pounds. All that with 228 inches of wheel base. He has a 22,000 pound chassis with a Gross Combined rating of 26,000. He is going to be close on weights, but I'm not so sure on the WDH.

Here is the rub:

His MH is rated to tow 5,000 pounds with 500 pounds of vertical tongue weight.

That's it. At least that's all Winnebago says it has.

http://winnebagoind.com/resources/br...nstar_2012.pdf

Winnebago should give you the definitive answer on whether you can use a Weight Distribution Hitch or not. When the manufacturer says 500 pounds of vertical only, this usually means no weight distribution allowed. You get 5,000 to play with and that's with only 500 pounds of weight on the hitch.

When you tow 4,000, you should have about 500 pounds on the tongue. You will have to load that dead on even to avoid being tongue light which could lead to sway. You may be able to use some form of sway control without WDH if Winnie says, "NO" on the WDH. Those type of anti-sway devices are primitive and old school, but may be your only option for sway control. That may be your biggest problem if you can't get enough weight on the tongue to keep it stable.

The OP asked about clearance, so I thought I'd add a suggestion to help him with his perceived clearance problem. Maybe he has already eliminated the WDH and that's why he didn't ask about it?

Maybe Smokey and i got off on this tangent and it helps. I hope so. We buy these huge buggers and think we can tow a whale. When in reality, the weight ratings really stink when you look at them.

If he loads the trailer properly and has to use a drop bar to keep it level, he should be fine. The drop bar will get him 5 or 6 inches more clearance.

I would recommend a short trip with a little testing. In reality, as soon as he drops the tongue on the ball, he should have an idea. If you get some squat, the trailer may be too much additional weight. Your MH may have to stay on a permanent diet to tow that trailer.

Here's the rub. Do the numbers on your motorhome. Manufacturers have played fast and loose with the chassis. They will build a 19,000 pound MH on a 22K chassis. After add ons, you got nothing left for cargo carrying capacity. So, if you load your motorhome up and drop the trailer on the hitch, guess what? All of a sudden your front end is up and your back end is squatting. You are over loaded.

Go to a scale and weigh the MH ready to travel. That is cheap insurance before you buy a trailer too big.

They do make WDH hitches that are adaptable to those short V-nose trailers. Some of them aren't for the faint at heart. Some require drilling into the trailer frame. That's something I'd avoid at all costs. He may have a little room to work under the box. It looks like there is a little gap with access to the frame for a WDH. Maybe?

Whatever you do, find out from the real experts first. Call Winnebago.

If they give you the OK on a WDH, you will know that if that is needed, you can go that route. My guess is no. If a WDH is authorized, that OK usually comes with a higher weight rating and hitch weight rating. It would say 500 vertical and 5,000 tow AND 1,000 tongue weight with WDH and 10,000 tow with WDH. That's why I have my doubts.

Good luck in how you go.

By the way, I tow my Jeep 4 down with about the same numbers that you have. It weighs 4,300. Pulls like a dream with power to spare. I do not have the tongue weight problem you are going to have. Tow bars weigh very little.
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Old 03-27-2015, 07:42 PM   #9
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If you do decide to get a weight distribution hitch there are options without cutting up the front of the trailer. Here is on that was posted on another forum I'm on.[/URL][/IMG]
The chains from wd hitch hook onto the round bars instead of the flip up brackets they normally have from what he explained. The one pictured was a pace option apparently.
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