Community Forums

RoyM · 06-08-2010, 10:10 PM

Were the axle gears changed and brakes upgraded when the big tires were mounted? If not the engine will pull hard with the extra weight and stopping could be very entertaining. As others have noted, drop hitches and sway controls are not compatible.

00Vette · 06-08-2010, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoyM

Were the axle gears changed and brakes upgraded when the big tires were mounted? If not the engine will pull hard with the extra weight and stopping could be very entertaining. As others have noted, drop hitches and sway controls are not compatible.

No I don't think so! Good stuff to know. I appreciate all the inputs, but I can't imagine larger wheels would make that big of a difference. I could see maybe a noticable difference. I live in Washington and believe it or not at least 50% of the trucks here are lifted and most of those are 3/4 to 1 ton deisels. And I can't recall all the times I've seen lifted trucks pulling TT and fifth wheels.

So I know we can make this work safely!

While I was reading up on stability/sway hitches, I learned most of the shanks are adjustable and some adjust as much as 6 1/8 inches down and like up to 10 inches up. Does that sound right? If I'm reading that correctly, it would more than compensate for my lift and the adjustable shank would fit into my receiver without a drop.

00Vette · 06-08-2010, 11:48 PM

Here a link to the information I was reading about which explained the adjustable shank.

Maybe I'm misreading it and a veteran can better interpret or verify what I think it says about being able to adjust the shank.

Common Weight Distribution and Sway Control Questions | etrailer.com

450Donn · 06-09-2010, 07:13 AM

YUP here in the pacific NW I have seen countless lifted trucks attempting to tow trailers that are practically dragging the tail.
While lifted trucks do not make good towing vehicles, it is what it is. There are adjustable drop hitches, get one. What you are looking for is approx 16 inches from the ground to the top of the ball. As it seems most trailers use this magical number for their proper setup. As for the tires, then adversely effect your final drive ratio. Want to know how bad? There are calculators all over the internet. download one and do the math. You likely now have a final drive ratio of 3.42 or lower if the truck had 3.73 stock.
Bottom like is, no matter how much you love the looks, returning the truck to stock height is probably the best solution. At least stock diameter tires.

CD · 06-09-2010, 08:18 AM

00Vette
Here’s my 02c worth. I have a 3500 Dodge 4X4. The floor of the box is about 34” off the ground. The truck is stock. I have a drop hitch with the holes like the one in the diagram you had in your post under #2. I got it at an RV dealer. I have a WD hitch with sway control. My ball top is about even with the top of the receiver hole. It can be lowered about 4” more. As has been stated above, if you have a 37x or lower rear end with the big tires you are going to be shifting down for every little rise you come to or will have to drive 70 to keep the RPMs up in the power range. The first 3500 I had (just like the present one except it had 354 rear end) had that problem. I don’t like towing over 60 and it was only running about 1700/1800 @ 60. I now have a 410 and it tows great. As for being lifted I have no knowedge about that. You should use GVWR instead of dry weight. DW is a meaningless number. GVWR is more like the real world.

00Vette · 06-09-2010, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CD

00Vette
Here’s my 02c worth. I have a 3500 Dodge 4X4. The floor of the box is about 34” off the ground. The truck is stock. I have a drop hitch with the holes like the one in the diagram you had in your post under #2. I got it at an RV dealer. I have a WD hitch with sway control. My ball top is about even with the top of the receiver hole. It can be lowered about 4” more. As has been stated above, if you have a 37x or lower rear end with the big tires you are going to be shifting down for every little rise you come to or will have to drive 70 to keep the RPMs up in the power range. The first 3500 I had (just like the present one except it had 354 rear end) had that problem. I don’t like towing over 60 and it was only running about 1700/1800 @ 60. I now have a 410 and it tows great. As for being lifted I have no knowedge about that. You should use GVWR instead of dry weight. DW is a meaningless number. GVWR is more like the real world.

I apprecite the inputs! I think I'm gonna put some lower gears in, but I don't even know what I have now.

I'm gonna start with getting the right hitch and making sure the trailer is level and pulled correctly. Then I'll save the money to change the rear end gears to an appropriate gear to pull. Inputs on figuring either of these out will be very helpful.

First is the right hitch!