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Old 08-27-2016, 09:54 PM   #1
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WDH and sway control

Hi Everyone, Happy to be here and hope to get some input/thoughts.

We just bought our new Nash 22H TT and am pulling it with a GMC 2500HD.

When talking with the RV dealer I had let him know I wanted an Equal-I-zer hitch. However, he dropped the ball and I ended up with a Husky round bar 31423, no anti sway bar. He said try it and if I want, bring it back and they will install the EQ brand.

We just got back from a 4 day test drive getting use to everything. Had a blast! The truck tows like a champ. I did not notice any sway when trucks passed or in somewhat windy condition (I was hoping for some "severe side winds" over the Columbia River but no luck). It was a bit bouncy going over some roads. But did not notice any "sway" going on. Felt very comfortable towing it.

The RV dealer told me that with my truck/TT combination the EQ would be overkill. But my current set up has no sway control other than the WD hitch. I could add it but then I have to take it off to back up which I do not want to do. Or as he suggested, pull over and put it on when I needed it?!? (Oh and btw, the hitch is really noisy backing up and turning. But I guess that's normal).

So I guess what I would like to know is what is your opinion? From what I've read different places anti-sway should be a must have. We are planning on a cross country trip soon and would like to settle this issue. I'm sure I'll encounter different tow conditions than here close to home. I'm leaning towards getting the EQ, don't mind the $300 upgrade, but really wouldn't mind not spending the extra $$ if I didn't have to.

Thanks for your input.
Judy

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Old 08-27-2016, 10:59 PM   #2
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I have the 22H Arctic Fox and a Ram 2500. This is all I use with a Curt sway bar. No issues and have towed it over 6,500 miles this year.

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Old 08-28-2016, 03:17 PM   #3
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Spend the money.

You won't know you need good sway control until you need it. Then it will be too late to keep the shiny side up.

It usually requires a combination of conditions to result in uncontrollable sway that results in the trailer - and maybe the tow vehicle - being upside down in the ditch. Slick pavement, cross winds, curve in the road, and unexpected chug hole or debris in the middle of the pavement that causes you to jerk the steering wheel trying to avoid that obstruction. All at the same time, plusa half-second later you meet an 18-wheeler barreling down the highway at 75 MPH.

Your Husky is a cheap hitch that uses "sway bars" for sway control. Better than no sway control, but not much. Much better would be the Husky CenterLine. Or best of the "affordable" weight-distribution hitches with built in sway control would be the Equal-I-Zer. Blue Ox Sway Pro, or Reese Strait-Line. Those all list for around $1,000 U.S., and are available on-line for about $500 to $600 including the required adjustable shank.

If you've ever had uncontrollable sway, then you'll spend a lot to be sure it never happens again. That's one reason the WD hitch on my TT is a Hensley ProPride that costs about 4 times what my Strait-Line cost.
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:01 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abnmarine View Post
I have the 22H Arctic Fox and a Ram 2500. This is all I use with a Curt sway bar. No issues and have towed it over 6,500 miles this year.
Bad decision for two reasons.

1] Your hitch weight is a lot more than 500 pounds. You should never tow a trailer that has more than 500 pounds hitch weight without a weight-distributing hitch. Read the hitch weight limits on the receiver. The weight-carrying (WC) limit is probably less than 600 pounds. Your 22H is not a current model, but the new 22G has GVWR of 7,500 pounds. If you load it to 6,500 pounds, that's hitch weight of over 800 pounds.


2] Your single sway bar can help control mild sway. But if you get into the combination of conditions that can result in uncontrollable sway, then you're going to be upside down in the ditch.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeyWren View Post
Bad decision for two reasons.

1] Your hitch weight is a lot more than 500 pounds. You should never tow a trailer that has more than 500 pounds hitch weight without a weight-distributing hitch. Read the hitch weight limits on the receiver. The weight-carrying (WC) limit is probably less than 600 pounds. Your 22H is not a current model, but the new 22G has GVWR of 7,500 pounds. If you load it to 6,500 pounds, that's hitch weight of over 800 pounds.


2] Your single sway bar can help control mild sway. But if you get into the combination of conditions that can result in uncontrollable sway, then you're going to be upside down in the ditch.
I'm afraid you are incorrect. My truck has a Class V hitch that is rated for 1,800 lbs hitch weight. I've weighed my trailer and the hitch weight is 900 lbs. My Reese hitch is rated for 1,300 lbs hitch weight and 13,000 lbs tow. I don't see the problem. My truck sits 1" higher in the rear and the steering is the same as when not towing anything. I've tried a WD before and it didn't change my setup.

I've towed in crosswinds and have yet to see any sway.
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:37 AM   #6
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I'm afraid you are incorrect. My truck has a Class V hitch that is rated for 1,800 lbs hitch weight. I've weighed my trailer and the hitch weight is 900 lbs.
So you replaced the OEM receiver with a heavier-duty receiver. Good for you.

But you are still ignoring the 500 pounds max tongue weight without a WD hitch. The 900 pounds TW is on the ball about 4' behind the center of the rear axle. The result is an unloaded front axle, that affects the steering and handling of your tow vehicle. Not safe.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:10 PM   #7
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So you replaced the OEM receiver with a heavier-duty receiver. Good for you.

But you are still ignoring the 500 pounds max tongue weight without a WD hitch. The 900 pounds TW is on the ball about 4' behind the center of the rear axle. The result is an unloaded front axle, that affects the steering and handling of your tow vehicle. Not safe.
I don't know why I bother but here goes.

The truck comes from the factory with a Class V hitch rated to handle 1,800 tongue weight. Nothing in the manual mentions or requires WD bars for that payload.

I've previously weighed my setup with the truck empty and then loaded with the trailer. My front axle weight isn't lighter once loaded. As a matter of fact it is a few hundred pounds heavier. So my front axle is not unloaded as you mentioned.

I normally would use a WD setup but don't see the need with my current setup. I've done the math and I'm well under its safe capabilities.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:18 PM   #8
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Per the manual:

The maximum tongue weight for Class V (receiver hitch) is limited to 1,800 lb.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:25 PM   #9
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With that setup you are right you really don't need a WD hitch. Some people use them more than others. I might use one with your TT but perhaps not. You could easily tow that TT with a 1/2 ton with a WD hitch.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:34 PM   #10
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Just finished a cross-country trip (well, most of the way) with my new blue-ox. It cost CDN$1,500 and was worth every penny.

We tackled the twisty hills of Northern Ontario, the terrible pot-holed roads of Manitoba and Saskatchewan, the mountains of Alberta and BC.

The mid-west US was the most fun with speed limits of 85mph / 136 kph. We were flying along at 130kph for at least 1,500 miles with some significant cross winds. Not a wobble - no sway.
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Old 08-30-2016, 01:19 PM   #11
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I just finished another 6,500 mile trip around the country with a simple ball/mount rated for 12,000 lbs.
No issues with sway or weight distribution.

To the idea of unloading the front axle, I say that my Cummins weighs roughly 1000lbs MORE than the Hemi. Even with 900lbs hanging on the back, the front end is planted.

If you want to notice a difference, replace your OEM shocks with Bilsteins or similar premium brand.
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:08 PM   #12
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I just finished another 6,500 mile trip around the country with a simple ball/mount rated for 12,000 lbs.
No issues with sway or weight distribution.

To the idea of unloading the front axle, I say that my Cummins weighs roughly 1000lbs MORE than the Hemi. Even with 900lbs hanging on the back, the front end is planted.

If you want to notice a difference, replace your OEM shocks with Bilsteins or similar premium brand.
I agree. Per Dodge's specs, the CTD is 960 lbs heavier than the Hemi 5.7.

I've had my eye on a set of Bilsteins and intend on installing some next spring when the tires get replaced. I've read nothing but good things about them.
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Old 08-30-2016, 03:47 PM   #13
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I put a set of the yellow blue HD's on mine and it really made the ride and towing better. No rebound bounce without riding stiff.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:12 AM   #14
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Yeah, I had a front OEM shock blow a seal around 45k miles. I could not believe how much better the Bilsteins were than my OE shocks when they were new.
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