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Old 05-21-2013, 02:20 AM   #1
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WDH bar ratings

We have a Reese DC hitch. Recently bought a new TT with a factory listed hitch weight of 514 lbs. Just went to a scale and discovered that the hitch weight is actually 960 lbs (14.5% of TT weight). When I ordered the hitch, I got 800 lb bars because I thought the 514 lbs figure plus payload would be well under the 800 lb rating.

Question is, just how does a bar rating relate to your actual hitch weight? I haven't really come across a discussion on this anywhere yet. Does a bar rating, say 800 lbs for example, mean that your hitch weight should not exceed 800 lbs? Or do you go by the amount of weight that is actually transferred onto the hitch (ideally 50%)?

If your bars end up being on the light side, what are the implications? Bouncier ride for the trailer? We have a rear kitchen and I am already finding that the cupboard doors open and things fall out even on a short trip of about 1/2 hour. Am already thinking about shocks to help this. Our truck is quite stable compared to the tail end of the TT.

Bottom line is, should we be looking an upgrading to 1200 lb bars? And can it wait until next season?
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:05 PM   #2
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Rear kitchen ; and heavy on the hitch ; your wife doesn't pack the way mine does. Had a rear kitchen 5er and had to put all the canned goods under the bed to get the pin weight up.
Can't realy help with the bars question just had to throw that in.
Yes rear kitchen cuoboard doors will come open , cram them with foam pillows and bungy the handles . Shocks may help.
Was you hitch weight loaded for travel or TT empty?
Can you re-distribute load to lower the hitch weight?
I've heard of the weights being off but; 80% low , thats a real .
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:55 PM   #3
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I was wondering this as well. I just purchased a TT and the PO had the WD set up. The bars are rated @ 750 pounds but the trailers hitch dry weight is like around 850! I am wondering what to do here. I put the bars on my truck when I bought the camper home this past Sunday and had the chains on the 3rd link. Trailered ok. I did some research on the net as I didn't get any instructions with the system and saw how I need to check measurements of the wheel wells and stuff. I plan to do that this weekend.

I have a Quality S WD system. I can't find it anywhere on the web and anything else like it. I have square bars and they kind of have little studs sticking out on both top and bottom of the end of the bars that attach to the hitch if that makes sense. LoL

I'm looking for the same answer...
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:31 PM   #4
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Towing with an F250 you may get away with 800lb bars. How does it tow? and have you actually measured your front fender height before and after hitching up? If your able to return enough weight with the 800lb bars then all is good. If you can't transfer enough weight the you'll need stronger bars.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:35 PM   #5
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Another thought ( question ). How did you come up with the trailer hitch weight ? Front jack on a scale ? Or did you run over a scale with the bars off and take the change in rear axle weight ?
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:05 PM   #6
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I have the info packet the PO got when purchasing it new. It tells you in the TT specs what the hitch dry weight it...
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppatello View Post
I have the info packet the PO got when purchasing it new. It tells you in the TT specs what the hitch dry weight it...
Sorry my question was actually for myredracer, as you can tell from his post his specs were wrong,( as are most ) and just trying to determine how he came by the hitch weight he posted.
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:50 AM   #8
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I made three passes at a Cat scale. One with truck only, one with truck + trailer with bars hooked up, and same with bars disconnected. I came up with 960 lbs by subtracting the weight of TV from weight of TV (steer + drive axles) with TT hooked up but bars disconnected.

I calculated I am getting 23% of tongue wt. transferred onto the steer axle, 31% onto drive axle and 40% onto trailer axles. These are a little off because I made one pass a couple of days later and weights were slightly different. I would like to figure out how to get more weight onto the drive axle and some of the trailer axle. I plan to experiment with making the bar angle one notch steeper and maybe try dropping the hitch ball one hole.

TT was loaded up with payload for camping. GVWR of TT is 6,800 lbs and scaled weight is 6,600. Dry weight is listed as 5237 lbs. Big difference. Didn't really put much in the trailer. The usual BBQ, chairs, sewer fittings, chocks, some clothes and some food. Sure didn't add 1300 + lbs!

Currently, getting the chains hooked up is a bit of a struggle even with raising the rear of the truck up. Currently have 4 links left over. Not sure I'd want to tighten the bar up any further.

The handling seems much better now than it was. The front end was not getting nearly enough weight transferred. The rear of the trailer bounces more than I'd like (rear kitchen) and I am not sure if 1200 lbs would improve this?
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:03 AM   #9
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Gil, sounds like you getting an accurate weight calculation for the hitch.
But don't forget the reciever and bars, were they in place when you weighed the truck without the trailer? Could make a 70 odd lbs difference in you hitch weight calculation.
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:36 AM   #10
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Thx Skip,

I had the bars in the back of the truck which I *think* is the recommended thing to do. No problem with payload capacity in the truck at least, lol.
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