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Old 06-14-2005, 07:29 PM   #1
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I ordered a new SunnyBrook 32BWKS and it arrived today. I don't have my new tow vehicle yet (2006 F-350 CC SRW SB). So I have no way to get it home. (insert sounds of heavy sighing and sobs here ).

My dilemma is whether to have the 5ver brought here (to my house where I keep it) and install the Pullrite adapter plate on it myself or leave the 5ver at the dealer until I get my TV and hitch installed and let the dealer install the adapter plate.

Is installing the adapter plate something someone (me) with good mechanical skills can easily do? Or should I leave it for the dealer / hitch installer to do?
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Old 06-14-2005, 07:29 PM   #2
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I ordered a new SunnyBrook 32BWKS and it arrived today. I don't have my new tow vehicle yet (2006 F-350 CC SRW SB). So I have no way to get it home. (insert sounds of heavy sighing and sobs here ).

My dilemma is whether to have the 5ver brought here (to my house where I keep it) and install the Pullrite adapter plate on it myself or leave the 5ver at the dealer until I get my TV and hitch installed and let the dealer install the adapter plate.

Is installing the adapter plate something someone (me) with good mechanical skills can easily do? Or should I leave it for the dealer / hitch installer to do?
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Old 06-15-2005, 12:08 AM   #3
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well i can tell you that from what i see and repair for people in my shop, i would not let anybody touch my truck.

you would be better off doing it yourself, following the instructions and making correct choises on what is the correct way to do it.

i had one where the kid did not drill and attatch it to the frame.

scarry stuff goes on out there.

the job is a simple deal to do.
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Old 06-21-2005, 06:02 AM   #4
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What hitch adapter plate are you talking about?
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Old 06-21-2005, 06:11 AM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by charliez:
What hitch adapter plate are you talking about? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>The Pullrite slider hitch uses a cam-shaped plate mounted on the 5th wheel pin box to automatically actuate the hitch's sliding function as the truck turns.

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Old 06-21-2005, 07:04 AM   #6
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Where is your pin going to be in relation to the nose of the rig? I have a SWB and do not need the slider. You may be able to save some money and time if you go without the slider. It will depend on the measurement though. Any 5th wheel trailer with any hitch will always have the potential to hit the cab. No matter what you do, there will always be a max turn radius.
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Old 06-21-2005, 07:05 AM   #7
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My pin is about a foot out past the nose. I think it has an extended hitch box, which if yours dosen't, you may look into getting that instead. It vastly increases turn radius and eliminates the slider hassles.
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Old 06-21-2005, 10:23 AM   #8
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If you'll check the links on Ken Lenger's signature, you'll find one that illustrates the 5th wheel/short bed dilemma. An extended pin box might delay the inevitable, but it will not eliminate cab interference problems if any trailer dimension from the centerline of the 5th wheel pin to a forward surface of the trailer is greater than the dimension from the centerline of the hitch jaws to the cab.

It all depends how your particular rig's dimensions stack up.

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Old 06-21-2005, 12:08 PM   #9
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But still, ANY 5th wheel trailer can hit the cab. Even with a slider hitch. There is no hitch that can give 360 clearence.

IF you can get where your going safely, and not hit, then save the money. IF your going places where you have to cut very hard, then spend it.
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Old 06-21-2005, 12:16 PM   #10
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Yes, but some hit earlier than others. If the dimensional stackups are wrong, some hit MUCH earlier than others. Some individuals don't want to worry about finding the limit trying to back into a campsite in the dark and popping out the rear glass or crunching the cab's sheet metal - for them, the slider is a good choice.

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Old 06-21-2005, 02:59 PM   #11
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Let the dealer bring your new camper to your house. Wait till you get your new tv. Then you can get a better idea of what you need. I had a short bed with an extended pin 5'er and clearance was fine.

I also installed everything myself, the instructions were excellent (reese). I agree, don't let anybody monkey with your new truck!!
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Old 06-22-2005, 07:05 AM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">don't want to worry about finding the limit trying to back into a campsite </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


All you need to do is find an empty parking lot and find out how far you can go. The fact still remains, even with a slider, there will allways be a swing limit. Even with a slider hitch, it would still be a good idea to find out what your limits are in a controled way instead of finding out when the back window pops.
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Old 06-22-2005, 07:23 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by charliez:
The fact still remains, even with a slider, there will allways be a swing limit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yes, but the question is whether or not this limit is reached in normal operating situations. Even if it is not, we all face some situations at times that qualify as abnormal.

My long bed truck can angle right at 90* without trailer/cab contact, even with my wide body (101" plus) RV. Do I routinely turn that sharply? No, not even while backing in tight quarters. If my swing limit were, let's say, 45*, though, then the chances of hitting the cab are quite high just in normal campsite maneuvering.

As Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) said, "A man has to know his limitations." Some parking lot practice and exploration, as you suggest, is highly recommended with any new rig.

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Old 06-23-2005, 09:07 AM   #14
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Traveldawg, I own the pullrite slider and like other people, don't trust anyone to do work on things that I am capable of doing. A couple of questions for you. 1. Will the dealer bring the 5er to your house. If so let him. 2 have you ever used a tap and die set? If so its its a simple process to unbolt the pin box and drill the 12 holes with a number 8 drill bit and tap the holes with a #20 1/4 tap. Use some locktight on the bolts and you are set. Don't know your age but remember the pin box is pretty heavy so have some one strong help you get on and off the 5er

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