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03-26-2019, 08:03 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3
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What can I tow safely?
I'm brand new. I've read a bunch and I still don't have any idea of what I can actually tow. So here's the deal. My husband and I miss camping. We haven't gone lately because we are so tired of tent camping. We don't want to sleep on the ground anymore and we don't like all the setting up, and especially the packing up and then unpacking and drying out when we get home. So we want to buy some kind of small camper or travel trailer or teardrop or whatever we can to camp. We do have children that will come with us from time to time, but when they are with us, they will sleep outside in a tent. They are all teens (minus one who is 11). And if the weather turns bad, they'll sleep in the car or perhaps one or two can pack in with us. But mainly, this purchase is solely for the two of us. One of the benefits of being a blended family is that we have every other weekend kid-free, as both sets of kids are with the "other" parent.
Our tow vehicle is our family vehicle, which is a 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe. It's the full size one, not the sport. It has a 5,000 lb capacity, which I already understand does not really mean 5,000 lbs. It is not "tow ready" and was not purchased with a "tow package," which means I need to have all that stuff done to it.
I've been researching a lot and I've learned not to trust sales people. So, how much weight can I tow? What length is safe? I live in the coastal area of Virginia, but will likely be traveling to the mountains in VA and NC, and probably WV, PA, and other close states as well.
Primary goal is sleeping off the ground. Would like AC. We like the camping experience, but cooking inside when necessary is nice. I don't have to have an indoor bathroom. But again, if that is something that I can have, that is awesome too.
Please help me!!
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03-26-2019, 08:12 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,305
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You should have lots of choices. We have friends that tow an older Trillium with a Santa Fe, and it works fine.
Good luck, and Happy Glamping.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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03-26-2019, 08:16 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,145
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I would recommend you look into a pop up camper. There is some set up, but it is much roomier inside for rainy days. they have a/c and you won't be sleeping on the ground. Some have a porta potti, but not a lot of privacy.
__________________
Zeb and Teena (In my heart)
2005 Mandalay, 2013 Ford Edge
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03-26-2019, 08:25 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas,OR
Posts: 4,584
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This question is actually asked a lot.
First, load the SUV like your going camping and drive across a set of scales. Closed state highway scales are always turned on, so that works well for me. Next once you have the vehicles scaled weight look on the drivers door Bpillar and read the vehicles GVWR. Subtract B from A. That is your net cargo capacity. I would doubt that you will have 500 pounds of left overs. BTW a trailers tongue weight will be between 10 and 15 percent of its actual weight. NOT the advertised brochure weight. So, a 5000 pound loaded ready to travel trailer should have between 500 and 750 pounds of tongue weight. Based on that assumption and knowing how much stuff and people weigh I suspect 500 pounds tongue weight might be right at your max. If so, a smaller tent trailer, or possibly one of the more basic teardrops should fit your SUV. But again you need to run the numbers based on actuals not brochure lies.
__________________
Don and Lorri
Resident Dummy.
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03-26-2019, 08:51 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 450Donn
This question is actually asked a lot.
First, load the SUV like your going camping and drive across a set of scales. Closed state highway scales are always turned on, so that works well for me. Next once you have the vehicles scaled weight look on the drivers door Bpillar and read the vehicles GVWR. Subtract B from A. That is your net cargo capacity. I would doubt that you will have 500 pounds of left overs. BTW a trailers tongue weight will be between 10 and 15 percent of its actual weight. NOT the advertised brochure weight. So, a 5000 pound loaded ready to travel trailer should have between 500 and 750 pounds of tongue weight. Based on that assumption and knowing how much stuff and people weigh I suspect 500 pounds tongue weight might be right at your max. If so, a smaller tent trailer, or possibly one of the more basic teardrops should fit your SUV. But again you need to run the numbers based on actuals not brochure lies.
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Yes I see that it's asked a lot, but then it's answered how you just answered it and I end up still a bit confused because I don't know exactly what you mean.
Are you saying since my regular camping stuff will likely weight at least 500 pounds, and that is what just the tongue weight is of a 5000lb TT is, then that means all I could possibly tow is a tent trailer or a basic 1000-1300lb teardrop?
Assume I have 500lb stuff in my SUV. What should the dry weight of my camper be, <1500? And I suppose then add 10-15% tongue weight to that number? So then <2150-2225? That would be 500lb stuff, 1500 trailer plus 10-15% tongue weight. And then staying significantly under the 5000lb tow capacity. Right? Or am I way off base?
What else matters most besides weight? Length? Shape?
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03-26-2019, 09:08 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas,OR
Posts: 4,584
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Please PLEASE do yourself a favor, forget that term. Simply adding a hundred pounds for a battery and one propane tank alters the mystical dry weight.
Everything you put in or on your SUV above the weight of a base model plus one 150 pound driver subtracts from its towing capacity. So, if you, hubby, and the normal stuff you would pack and carry totals 750 pounds, that all reduces your hitch weight and towing capacity. Look up the proposed trailers GVWR, use 15% of that number as hitch weight. Add that to your actual scaled ready to travel weight. Are you over or under the SUVs GVWR? Its really that simple. You may never load your trailer to the max, but, GUARANTEED you will never ever come close to its dry weight. So always error on the side of caution.
__________________
Don and Lorri
Resident Dummy.
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03-26-2019, 09:26 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 450Donn
Please PLEASE do yourself a favor, forget that term. Simply adding a hundred pounds for a battery and one propane tank alters the mystical dry weight.
Everything you put in or on your SUV above the weight of a base model plus one 150 pound driver subtracts from its towing capacity. So, if you, hubby, and the normal stuff you would pack and carry totals 750 pounds, that all reduces your hitch weight and towing capacity. Look up the proposed trailers GVWR, use 15% of that number as hitch weight. Add that to your actual scaled ready to travel weight. Are you over or under the SUVs GVWR? Its really that simple. You may never load your trailer to the max, but, GUARANTEED you will never ever come close to its dry weight. So always error on the side of caution.
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Okay, I'm learning! Luckily, I am willing to learn. And I'm good with percentages and math! LOL. So look at GVWR of the thing I want to buy, take 15% of that. Then add that number to the weight of my fully packed SUV? I can't recall what the GVWR is of my SUV but I know it's somewhere on the vehicle itself.
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03-26-2019, 09:41 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Coast Florida
Posts: 12,995
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I had a Honda Ridgeline with the so called 5,000lb towing capacity. Well that was a lie, as is your towing capacity. Knowing what I know now I want you say to tow something comfortably stay 3,000 lbs
or less.
A pop-up is the next step up from tent camping. It offers more protection, gets you off the ground, you can walk around in it, cook in it, eat in it and it has room for more than 2 people if needed. It is easy to tow and still gives you that camping feeling.
Look at the teardrop T@B 400 or the Winnebago Micro Mini trailers to get an example of hard shell trailers.
I have been more 'Wow'ed' by the mid sized or large pop-ups than the hard shell trailers.
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03-26-2019, 09:50 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas,OR
Posts: 4,584
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I would guess you will have a GVWR around 6500 pounds. The actual number you can find on the drivers door latch side. Usually down low, but it will be there.
As an examply my Acura MDX scaled Sunday at 4950 pounds with DW and I. Add another 112 pounds for the dog would put us up to 5060 before we add any camping stuff. Smaller SUVs simply dont have that much towing capacity.
__________________
Don and Lorri
Resident Dummy.
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03-26-2019, 10:22 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kingman Az
Posts: 1,686
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5k lbs mean a 500lb tongue weight, fully loaded. Trick is the braking system and when you are going up hill, slow down so you don't over heat the engine. Find out your "power RPM range" of your engine. Most trailers have some sort of electric brakes so that means a brake controller installed into your vehicle to operate them. Looking at about a total of $1k with all the goodies.... So, trailer must be less than the 5k say about 4k with 1000 lbs for food, water, propane and other junk. These are the basics, but....
They also make something called surge brakes. they use hydraulics mounted on the trailer hitch to operate the brakes. The good thing is that they can be towed behind any vehicle with a correctly rated weight hitch and don't require a brake controller. Your will still need the brake light hookups. Most trailers do not come with surge brakes and will be an extra expense of about $1500 to have them installed. You may be able to order them directly from the factory. I've towed 8k lb trailer on a 5k lb rated hitch with 4 wheel surge brakes with no problems, but I would not recommend doing that regularly. Surge brakes do not mean you can over load your hitch rating.
Last thing.... You can't take a 3500lb vehicle towing a 5,000 lb trailer full loaded and drive it the same as with no trailer behind it. It is common sense, you have to slow down. That is why you see so many DP moho's out there. a 30,000 lb vehicle towing a 3,000 lb vehicle can be driven like a car when it comes to speed.. the vehicle is less than 10% of the moho's weight. I barely notice the car is even there. But when you put a 35,000 lb trailer behind a 30,000 lb moho, wow!!! what a huge difference....
So, it is all in how you expect the rig to handle. Little tow vehicle with big trailer will be slow accel. and increased braking distance. Most people find it very uncomfortable and can't seem to adjust to the changed handling characteristics. So you have to drive slower....a lot slower.... The heavier the trailer the slower you have to drive....again, all common sense... hope this helps...
__________________
May your black water hose never break!
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03-26-2019, 10:47 AM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: HillBilly country, Smokey Mtns
Posts: 4,171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megan_hslib
So look at GVWR of the thing I want to buy, take 15% of that. Then add that number to the weight of my fully packed SUV? I can't recall what the GVWR is of my SUV but I know it's somewhere on the vehicle itself.
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Yes, you got it.
The "thing you want to buy" may not show a GVWR. In that case, add the dry weight to the cargo carrying capacity (CCC) to get GVWR.
If 15% of trailer GVWR is more than 500 pounds, then add another 100 pounds to that number before you add it to the weight of your SUV. That will give you hitch weight of a wet and loaded trailer. That 100 pounds is for the weight of a good weight-distributing/sway-control (WD) hitch that is required for any tongue weight over 500 pounds.
Then compare the weight of your fully-packed SUV (including hitch weight) to the GVWR of your SUV. If the weight of your fully-packed SUV (including hitch weight) is more than the GVWR of your SUV, then that's too much trailer for you to safely tow.
But that sequence is backwards from your best approach. First determine the weight of your fully-packed SUV, then add 100 pounds for a good WD hitch. Subtract that weight from the GVWR of the SUV and the answer is payload capacity available for tongue weight (TW).
Divide the payload capacity available for TW by 15% and the answer is the conservative max GVWR of any trailer you want to buy. Average TW is 13% of gross trailer weight, so if you pack the trailer to have 13% TW instead of the max of 15%, then the GVWR of your trailer can go up a bit.
BTW, after you have the trailer wet and loaded for the road, before you can do the percentage math, you need to know the wet and loaded weight of the trailer as well as the tongue weight (TW). The best way to get the TW is with a TW scale, such as this one: https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html
A trailer hitch receiver was an option on your 2018 Santa Fe. But it's not necessary to pay dealer prices for one. Here's one I would recommend for your SUV: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...leID=201817698
You also want a trailer brake controller if the trailer you buy has electric (magnet) brakes. We got by for years with a Drawtite Activator (time delayed) trailer brake controller. https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Contr...Tite/5100.html
My wife and I bought a small Wheel Camper pop-up tent trailer when our kids were small. We drug that camper all over the country, from Maine to SoCal and from Seattle to the Florida Keys and every mountain range in between until the kids were both grown and gone. It had an 8' floor, and no electric or gas anything. We hauled Coleman 3-burner gas stove, Coleman gas lantern, Coleman gas catalytic heater, big plastic dishpan, 5-gallon jug of fresh water, and a porta-pottie. Here's a pic of a Wheel Camper, but I suspect that one is longer than our 8-footer.
(Wheel Camper Corp went bust during the "Arab oil Crissis" of the mid 1970s.)
After a little practice, we could pop up the camper. insert the upper door, and button it up enough to get out of the weather. Then later we could level the trailer on the jack stands before going to bed.
__________________
Grumpy ole man with over 60 years towing experience. Now my heaviest trailer is a 7'x16' 5,000-pound flatbed utility trailer, my tow vehicle is a 2019 F-150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost SuperCab with Max Tow (1,904 pounds payload capacity).
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03-26-2019, 10:53 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megan_hslib
Okay, I'm learning! Luckily, I am willing to learn. And I'm good with percentages and math!
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Ok, if you're good with math, the straight forward answer is going to be fairly simple.
1) Load up your Hyundai with all the people* and stuff you'd put in it, if you already owned a trailer, fill up the fuel tank and go weigh the Hyundai.
2) Subtract that number from the Hyundai's GVWR (from the white sticker on the driver's door/door frame; not from google or the brochure or cars.com or the salesperson...)
3) Take the result of step 3, subtract 100lbs**, and divide by 0.15.
4) Your maximum "safe" trailer weight is the number from step 3 or 5000lbs, whichever is LESS. You said "safe", you didn't say "fun" nor did you say "without over-stressing the Hyundai's engine and brakes to the point where they wear out much faster than I expected"
*If you can't assemble all the people, put the appropriate amount of weights (bags of sand, barbells, whatever) in their seats.
**This is the weight receiver & hitch you still have to install on your Hyundai
__________________
2013 ORV Creek Side 18CK
2018 Expedition Max FX4
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03-29-2019, 08:58 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 643
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What can I tow safely?
Quote:
Originally Posted by megan_hslib
We don't want to sleep on the ground anymore and we don't like all the setting up, and especially the packing up and then unpacking and drying out when we get home. So we want to buy some kind of small camper or travel trailer or teardrop or whatever we can to camp.
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Popups can have quite a bit of setup/teardown/dry out when get wet. Plus, as you get older, their thin “matresses” get tiresome. Look into hardsided popups like A-liner. The T@B 300 and 400 teardrops sure do look nice too.
__________________
2000 Coleman Tacoma Pop-Up
2006 Ford Explorer XLT, 4.0L-V6, 4x2
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03-30-2019, 06:47 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 216
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If you are married to that car for a while, I would consider one of the R-Pod style trailers.
They come up to 20 foot or so, and most have tongue weights in the 240 to 275 range, with empty weights less than 3,000 lbs.
Jim
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Jim and Linda
SE Wisconsin
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