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Old 07-02-2013, 06:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 336muffin View Post
Is your freshwater tank half full? If the FWT is mounted long ways with the frame this could be the problem.
As far as I know it's empty. I've never filled it. Now, I did buy the unit used, so maybe the previous owner left some water in there? Hmmm, I'll have to look.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:51 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boltsfaninmo View Post
I do have a moveable chock because I don't mount it at all. I can move it forward another foot, but I really can't. My problem is too much TW really.

The last time I camped (before adjusting the hitch) my weights fully loaded with Wife, 2 dogs, Harley, and all gear was:

Steer Axle=3560
Drive Axle=3140
Trailer Axle=4760
CGVWR=11460

My F150 by itself weighs:

Steer Axle=3280
Drive Axle=2600
GVWR=5880

I have not weighed since messing with the hitch Saturday.
Looking at those numbers, you may have the tension too tight on the WDH. I'm to understand that you only want to replace the weight lifted off the front axle from the fulcrum effect of the hitch being so far behind the rear axle. Maybe increase front axle weight by 100 or so lbs, but you have numbers showing a 280 lb increase! Too tight in my opinion.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:14 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by NFlcamper View Post
Looking at those numbers, you may have the tension too tight on the WDH. I'm to understand that you only want to replace the weight lifted off the front axle from the fulcrum effect of the hitch being so far behind the rear axle. Maybe increase front axle weight by 100 or so lbs, but you have numbers showing a 280 lb increase! Too tight in my opinion.
I was thinking maybe the same thing. One caveat is that weighing was not with the current hitch setup, so I'll have to weigh it agian next time I got out fully loaded. I've really completely confused myself really after towing and weighing for two trukcs trying to make it all work like I want.

Does anyone know what affect too much weight transferred to front axle will cuase?
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:26 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Boltsfaninmo View Post
I do have a moveable chock because I don't mount it at all. I can move it forward another foot, but I really can't. My problem is too much TW really.

The last time I camped (before adjusting the hitch) my weights fully loaded with Wife, 2 dogs, Harley, and all gear was:

Steer Axle=3560
Drive Axle=3140
Trailer Axle=4760
CGVWR=11460

My F150 by itself weighs:

Steer Axle=3280
Drive Axle=2600
GVWR=5880

I have not weighed since messing with the hitch Saturday.
3560+3140=6700
6700-5880=820 tongue weight
820+4760=5580
Way more than 10-12% tongue weight. Try moving the Harley back to balance the trailer weight. My bike is less than a foot to ramp door when closed. Still think bar tension is too tight.
In earlier post, you mention that hitch height was 22 and trailer was 21.5 or something like that. I'd adjust hitch 1 hole / inch up and start over there.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:59 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by NFlcamper View Post
3560+3140=6700
6700-5880=820 tongue weight
820+4760=5580
Way more than 10-12% tongue weight. Try moving the Harley back to balance the trailer weight. My bike is less than a foot to ramp door when closed. Still think bar tension is too tight.
In earlier post, you mention that hitch height was 22 and trailer was 21.5 or something like that. I'd adjust hitch 1 hole / inch up and start over there.
Thanks, actually the measurements above were with the hitch set up before with the ball height the next hole up. Not sure of the height of the ball though. As for the Harley, I have it loaded all the way up against the ramp. I can move it forward, but not back.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:54 PM   #20
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What year F-150 is it and what GVRW do you have.

I have a 2011 F-150 for my camper and a 2009 F-150 for the work trailer and both tow trailers weight with in 200 lbs loaded of each other loaded. The 2011 rides smoother loaded and unloaded due to the longer rear springs. But this does give a much different feeling of bounce or push while towing. I have switched the trailers between the two trucks and there is a difference to be felt.

Also the sidewalls of the tires on the 2011 seem to flex more than the replacement tires on the 2009. This causes some of the difference between the two trucks.

Try adjusting the tire pressure up to the sidewall max reading and see if you notice a difference. I believe the door jam sticker calls for 35 psi and when towing I go up to the 42 or 44 psi on the sidewall.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rgmiller32 View Post
What year F-150 is it and what GVRW do you have.

I have a 2011 F-150 for my camper and a 2009 F-150 for the work trailer and both tow trailers weight with in 200 lbs loaded of each other loaded. The 2011 rides smoother loaded and unloaded due to the longer rear springs. But this does give a much different feeling of bounce or push while towing. I have switched the trailers between the two trucks and there is a difference to be felt.

Also the sidewalls of the tires on the 2011 seem to flex more than the replacement tires on the 2009. This causes some of the difference between the two trucks.

Try adjusting the tire pressure up to the sidewall max reading and see if you notice a difference. I believe the door jam sticker calls for 35 psi and when towing I go up to the 42 or 44 psi on the sidewall.
My F150 is a 2013 with a GVWR of 7200#'s. Yes, the PSI is 35 on the door. It has Passenger tires that are fairlly low profile. When I towed it to Arkansas I did air up to 40 psi. I'm not camping this Holiday weekend, but man I may go get the trailer load it up, weigh it, and mess with it again. If I do, I'll post pics and weights.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by NFlcamper View Post
3560+3140=6700
6700-5880=820 tongue weight
820+4760=5580
Way more than 10-12% tongue weight. Try moving the Harley back to balance the trailer weight. My bike is less than a foot to ramp door when closed. Still think bar tension is too tight.
In earlier post, you mention that hitch height was 22 and trailer was 21.5 or something like that. I'd adjust hitch 1 hole / inch up and start over there.
I took a 2nd look at your post, and I think its incorrect. The 5880 is the truck by itself with a full tank. The 6700 included my Wife, 2 dogs, etc. which is 240 lbs. So, I think 820 TW is not correct because 240 of it is Wife and 2 dogs. I think the TW with the Harley loaded is less then 600 lbs, maybe 600 lbs at most.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:14 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Boltsfaninmo View Post
I took a 2nd look at your post, and I think its incorrect. The 5880 is the truck by itself with a full tank. The 6700 included my Wife, 2 dogs, etc. which is 240 lbs. So, I think 820 TW is not correct because 240 of it is Wife and 2 dogs. I think the TW with the Harley loaded is less then 600 lbs, maybe 600 lbs at most.
Thought truck weight was ready to camp, sorry. Tongue weight sounds ok.

Possibly bars adjusted too tight?
Here is how I have mine adjusted;
Start out with ball height adjusted 1-1/2" higher than LEVEL trailer ball coupler because truck should squat that much. Jack trailer high enough to couple to truck. Line up and lower only untill you can lock trailer coupler on ball. Put bars on hitch, pull bars and chain up by hand and hook the chain link that is closest to the hook on the snap up lever - WHEN IT IS LEVEL with top of trailer frame. Should snap up with moderate pressure since jack is supporting weight. Count links and use that number to match other side. Raise jack to travel position and re measure truck. Adjust 1 link tighter or looser if necessary.
3 link height BELOW trailer frame to bars is necessary for flexibility in hard turns. The "3 links from top" is for adjustable angle head trunion bar WDH ideal length - so you can have room to adjust for added or drecreased weight to trailer.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:42 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by NFlcamper View Post
Thought truck weight was ready to camp, sorry. Tongue weight sounds ok.

Possibly bars adjusted too tight?
Here is how I have mine adjusted;
Start out with ball height adjusted 1-1/2" higher than LEVEL trailer ball coupler because truck should squat that much. Jack trailer high enough to couple to truck. Line up and lower only untill you can lock trailer coupler on ball. Put bars on hitch, pull bars and chain up by hand and hook the chain link that is closest to the hook on the snap up lever - WHEN IT IS LEVEL with top of trailer frame. Should snap up with moderate pressure since jack is supporting weight. Count links and use that number to match other side. Raise jack to travel position and re measure truck. Adjust 1 link tighter or looser if necessary.
3 link height BELOW trailer frame to bars is necessary for flexibility in hard turns. The "3 links from top" is for adjustable angle head trunion bar WDH ideal length - so you can have room to adjust for added or drecreased weight to trailer.
Thanks, those instructions sound almost identical to mine which is what I followed really. The one part I'm now not sure of is the ball height. I know it was higher than the coupler, but probably not 1-1/2". I think to get the ball height correct I'd have to leave the ball mount vertical and not tilted backwards at all. I was under the impression (not sure why) the ball mount had to be tilted backwards? If I tilt the head then I can't get the ball 1-1/2" higher than coupler without moving the whole mount up one hole. Man, I'm gonna have to go get the trailer and start messing with it some more.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:53 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Boltsfaninmo View Post
I guess it was tightly seated. Not sure what it's called but that sliding doo hickey atop the coupler was all the way seated and locked into place. Curious why I'd be looking for the up down movement? Wouldn't it be better to have no up/down or push/pull?
What about the TT's brakes? Are they adjusted correctly? Could the TT be too heavy for your TV?
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:57 PM   #26
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I had a similar problem with the push pull sensation with a 1 ton dually.
To solve my problem I purchased an AirSafe hitch and shimed the inside of my hitch receiver and the problem is now history.
I think the best bet is to try to solve the problem with all the above advice first ( there are a lot of good ideas in those posts)
and if you still have problems look into the Airsafe. It's on the pricey side but to me it's worth it for many reasons and the most important two for me are: one is a softer ride for the trailer and the other is a better ride for my TV. If you have any further questions about my experience with the AirSafe, just let me know. I'll try to help, at least I can tell you what I had done to get the right set up fro my rig. It's a process for sure.
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:39 AM   #27
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Thanks, those instructions sound almost identical to mine which is what I followed really. The one part I'm now not sure of is the ball height. I know it was higher than the coupler, but probably not 1-1/2". I think to get the ball height correct I'd have to leave the ball mount vertical and not tilted backwards at all. I was under the impression (not sure why) the ball mount had to be tilted backwards? If I tilt the head then I can't get the ball 1-1/2" higher than coupler without moving the whole mount up one hole. Man, I'm gonna have to go get the trailer and start messing with it some more.
You have a tilting head unit? Good.
Set the TOP of the ball height 1-2" higher than level trailer coupler.
There should be a part of the instructions that require you to measure the trailers frame deminisions and show different ways the coupler is attatched to the trailer tounge. Find the measurement there, put the bars on the truck empty, pull them up by hand and adjust angle to get the end of the bar to the required heght off the ground. This is a close starting point and minor adjustments to follow up. On the tilting head base - It may be straight up, it may be tilted back. Tilting the head back helps increase the load the bars carry. If too far back, and you have to use a lot of force to snap up the chains, they may be too tight. They will hold the rear of the truck up and overwork your front suspension. There was a commercial back in the 70s about the WDH and they used a front wheel drive Eldorado and actually removed the rear tires to show weight distribution. That is extreme.

Good luck!
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:30 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by NFlcamper View Post
You have a tilting head unit? Good.
Set the TOP of the ball height 1-2" higher than level trailer coupler.
There should be a part of the instructions that require you to measure the trailers frame deminisions and show different ways the coupler is attatched to the trailer tounge. Find the measurement there, put the bars on the truck empty, pull them up by hand and adjust angle to get the end of the bar to the required heght off the ground. This is a close starting point and minor adjustments to follow up. On the tilting head base - It may be straight up, it may be tilted back. Tilting the head back helps increase the load the bars carry. If too far back, and you have to use a lot of force to snap up the chains, they may be too tight. They will hold the rear of the truck up and overwork your front suspension. There was a commercial back in the 70s about the WDH and they used a front wheel drive Eldorado and actually removed the rear tires to show weight distribution. That is extreme.

Good luck!
I didn't go to the trailer today, but I will Saturday or Sunday I think. I did find out I have this hitch:
https://www.etrailer.com/p-49569.html

Also, I put the hitch on the truck and measured. The ball is 22 1/2" from the ground which is 1" higher than the coupler when the trailer is level. The ball mount seems to be pretty much in the center of its adjustment/tilt range which puts the ball tilted rearward just a tad.

I'll pick up my trailer Saturday probably and start messing around again. When I get it set up best I can I'll run through and weigh it too.
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