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Old 09-22-2014, 10:28 AM   #1
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What really is required to bulletproof a 6.0??

I recently received good info in another thread on our new 5th wheel with a 2600 lb pin weight. Have not bought the truck yet.

Can't find a Dodge around here with all the requirements and like Fords anyway.

All those we can find available have the 6.0 engine which I read is "problematic".

So:
1. What are the specific upgrades that will make it bulletproof? I have tried to read up on the diesel forums but the questions / answers are too general or only address individual problems. I've found a good truck where the owner says he has done the upgrades and has paperwork to prove it, but I would not know if his changes are adequate.

2. If the 6.0 is so problematic, how come there are so many out there with high mileage? How does a guy drive 175,000 miles with a bad engine?

Thanks
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Old 09-22-2014, 11:06 AM   #2
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This is all JMHO, because I didn't have to work on the engines myself, the Dodge dealership I worked at had the contract to service the local ambulance fleet, E-350's, and another mechanic got to tear his hair out.
The engine left stock ; no chips or tuners; probably needed only upgraded head gaskets and bolts ( ? ) to survive. Because coolant leaks were the most common issue.
Again , JMHO. The 6.0 modified , chips, tuners, injector change, etc. Would be problematic, no matter what anyone says about making them bulletproof. But then I wouldn't trust any brand of diesel that had modifications, and just wouldn't buy one, that had been.
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:36 PM   #3
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1. What are the specific upgrades that will make it bulletproof?
The experts on the 6.0L diesel engine hang out in the 6.0L forums on TheDieselStop. Here's the link to a year-old thread that probably answers your questions.
Bullet-Proof Engine - Part II - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:26 PM   #4
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I was in a similar boat a month ago when the wife and I were considering selling our class A for a 5th wheel because I would like to triple tow. Being an ex Ford technician and working for Ford (and budget)I wanted to get a 6.0L truck. But like you said the majority are well into the 100K mark and in the 200K mark. Then they are still going for big money. A low mileage truck was even more money and my biggest thing was a clean body and not a northern truck that has been subject to salty roads in the winter.

A few things to keep a 6.0L going and it has worked for my sisters that is at 230K right now with virtually no repairs done to it. And it only shut down on her once since 2005.

1 Motorcraft batteries. The injector driver module (FICM) is sensitive to low battery voltage, especially when starting. Make sure they are tested with a Midtronics tester at every oil change at the dealer. There are some companies that bullet proof them for a few hundred dollars and many seem to swear by it.

2 Keep the oil changed and use Ford oil filters. Many aftermarket filters do not allow the oil bypass to close of properly so unfiltered oil is introduced into the oiling system. Ford/International has the patent on the filters. I recommend every 5K.

3 Replace the fuel filters every 10-15K. The fuel injection system does not like dirty fuel and low fuel pressure. Ford fuel filters are cheap insurance. Both clean filters and oil changes really help the injectors stay alive. My sisters truck has all 8 original injectors.

4 Drive the truck on a regular basis. The issue is with the turbo charger VGT section. The variable geometry section is prone to moisture rust and once that happens the variable geometry section will seize and you will have an under boost or over boost condition. Taking the turbo apart and cleaning it cures the problem. However you shouldn't have an issue with regular driving. Again my sisters is original.

5 Replace the engine coolant with a over the truck ELC coolant. The Ford coolant does not seem to hold up. Have the oil cooler tested though. If there is a 15F or more difference between engine coolant and oil temps it is plugged and the EGR cooler and oil cooler needs replaced. A clogged oil cooler causes EGR cooler failures.

6 The 04 and newer engines have a redesigned and more reliable high pressure pump. However the fitting that is connected to it is not. There has been several revisions but all of them except the first seems to hold up well. Have a warranty history check to see if the STC has been replaced. Or check the service records. The first thing I would do to a 6.0L is to replace the STC and IPR valve.
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:11 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by johnandcaren View Post
I recently received good info in another thread on our new 5th wheel with a 2600 lb pin weight. Have not bought the truck yet.

Can't find a Dodge around here with all the requirements and like Fords anyway.

All those we can find available have the 6.0 engine which I read is "problematic".

So:
1. What are the specific upgrades that will make it bulletproof? I have tried to read up on the diesel forums but the questions / answers are too general or only address individual problems. I've found a good truck where the owner says he has done the upgrades and has paperwork to prove it, but I would not know if his changes are adequate.

2. If the 6.0 is so problematic, how come there are so many out there with high mileage? How does a guy drive 175,000 miles with a bad engine?

Thanks
I had a 2004 F350 that I bought new. Drove it 9 years and 180,000+ miles without any issues. I knew of the problems before I bought the truck but I read on the Ford diesel forum, named something else now, that if the motor was made after September 2003 they had been resolved. The thread even told you were to look on the engine block to find the date. When I traded it the dealer said he already had a buyer for it.

A lot of the issues I was told by my selling dealer were people chipping them to up the HP/torque. We had this conversation after the sale.
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:05 PM   #6
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thank you thank you thank you

Taking the time to write such a detailed and well worded reply is very much appreciated. Now I know exactly how to proceed. And hearing about a new truck doing well for 9 years is reassurring.

So we just sold our Class A and just bought a 5er. Glad to answer any questions although in the 5er area I'm still a newbee.

Armed with this knowledge I can now move forward with a good decision.

God bless you guys and drive safely.

ME
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:25 PM   #7
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Don't even think about it!
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:53 PM   #8
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But then I wouldn't trust any brand of diesel that had modifications, and just wouldn't buy one, that had been.
We've had three Type A motorhomes, have put Banks kits on two of them. Banks is known for bullet proof uprates and is known to work with the engine/transmission manufacturers to get the most HP and torque without voiding the warranty. So I wouldn't be afraid to buy a rig with a Banks kit on it.
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:40 AM   #9
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MoiUse a Scangauge2 when shopping for a six 0 and you will be able to check all the important signs. It needs to be programmed for the Fords using available guide on their website.
Been using the gauge on my truck for 7 years now and have no fears.
Most of these Fords now have proper coolant and EGR bypasses by now and if not the expansion coolant tank will indicate solids in the system. Run away from those or be ready to do the switch.
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:51 PM   #10
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Question OK Thanks. But what about mileage???

If you guys with experience were shopping and came across the right truck in all ways - except = it had 213,000 miles on it.

Thoughts??

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Old 09-23-2014, 07:12 PM   #11
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If you guys with experience were shopping and came across the right truck in all ways - except = it had 213,000 miles on it.

Thoughts??

first of all make sure the price is right for a high mileage truck. Make sure you are happy with the interior and exterior condition. The transmission is bullet proof and seen them go for hundreds of thousands of miles with no issues. Even working hard. I would try to get all service records and see how it was taken care of. That would be my biggest thing to look for. Have dealer check it out and perform a relative compression test.
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Old 09-25-2014, 02:01 PM   #12
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If you have a 6.0L Ford you really need a set of digital gauges to monitor the engine. We knew going in that our Excursion would have engine issues but we needed a big SUV and I research the cures extensively before we bought ours. James pretty much nailed all of the major issues. From the research that I did, the Ford Gold Coolant is the major culprit that begins the chain reaction of issues in most of the 6.0L engines. Silicate drops out of suspension in that coolant and clogs up the EGR Cooler to the point it can overheat the unit and crack it. This then allows coolant to get into the oil and appear that the head gaskets have a leak. Upgrading the EGR cooler to a "Bullet Proof" unit AND doing and extensive coolant flush to switch over to the ELC coolant will probably cure the majority of any 6.0L issues. We had Ford take care of this for us and while they had the top of the engine apart we had them install many of the Ford OEM updated parts for the motor such as the "blue" fuel pressure spring, dummy plugs etc. All told we likely spent about $3500 (labor included) in preventative/upgrade repairs but I can say the truck is running great. We just tested it this past summer towing our trailer in the North Carolina mountains, worked great.

www.powerstroke.org and www.thedieselstop.com are two very good sites to gain a working knowledge of these engines. We put 50,000 miles on our truck since buying it with 90,000 miles. It does a lot of towing and family hauling. Don't be afraid of the 6.0L but be informed on what it takes to make it right. If you are going to fix any OEM parts call the guys at AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | New & Used Ford Dealer serving Minneapolis, St. Paul & Woodbury Minnesota the old Toulsey Ford. They can tell you all the "standard" updated parts you'll need and have the best price for OEM parts I've ever seen...even with shipping down to Florida!

Joe
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:04 PM   #13
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They make kits so you can put a Cummins into a ford . I have never seen a kit sold to put a 6.0 into anything. Guess that says alot. The new ford 6.7 are a much better engine then the 6.0 . Myself, l prefer an in line 6 but that is JMO.
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:03 PM   #14
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They make kits so you can put a Cummins into a ford . I have never seen a kit sold to put a 6.0 into anything. Guess that says alot. The new ford 6.7 are a much better engine then the 6.0 . Myself, l prefer an in line 6 but that is JMO.
Something else, Cummins is the only Diesel in the F650/750.

My 98 4X4 I recently sold to my Son has nearly 400K is a strong rummer and I recently bought a 98 12V 2wd with 313K and it runs great at 22-23 mpg freeway.
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