What’s the best oil additive

[1bigmess]

All of those cases are engines that clearly needed work because of pretty serious problems. If you don't have any engine problems, you don't need any additives.

[L.C.Gray]

Originally Posted by 1bigmess

All of those cases are engines that clearly needed work because of pretty serious problems.

Nah, they're just worn... A rod ventilating the block is a serious problem and needs work.
Case 1: Just use the machine a few hours per year around the place, not enough to justify doing a $10,000 overhaul.
Case 2: All original car, only drive it about 1,500 miles per year, never been apart, why start now, they're only original once.
Case 3: Not mine, same case as #2, but its his money, if he wants to put about $6,000 engine into a $3,500 truck that's rarely driven, that's up to him.

My point is still the same, Lucas is a great product that does everything it says and can make a tired engine go a little farther if you want it to

Originally Posted by 1bigmess

If you don't have any engine problems, you don't need any additives.

No so true...with todays "green" oil and how much of the trace metal anti-wear additives they have removed for emissions purposes, your high lift flat tappet cam with a heavy set of valve springs has a life expectancy of about an hour and a half with most of this modern oil. You either add it back in, buy dedicated racing oil or flatten your cam... I got by it for quite a while running oils formulated for diesels, but now even they have gone green and taken out all the good stuff. It's a real problem for the hot rod/vintage car crowd.

[phil-t]

The best oil additive(s) are the ones still on the shelves at the auto parts stores. There are enough additives already in the oil you buy. I have not seen one manufaturer that recommends any additives.

[SmokeyWren]

I agree with most of the others - oil additives are snake oil if you use a high-quality motor oil such as MotorCraft or Mobil 1 and change oil and filter as often as the Owner's Guide requires. But I also agree with bobbin. When you change the oil, catch a pint or so of the used motor oil and have it analized by a quality oil analysis outfit, such as Blackstone Labs

The analysis can tell you if the engine has any problems with excess wear of rings, pistons, bearings, etc. and whether your choice of motor oil is doing the job.

If your only engine problem is excess oil consumption, then Blackstone may recommend a higher-viscosity motor oil. Or maybe add some STP viscosity improver to your oil then after another 1,000 miles or so have another oil analysis done to see if that helped any.

[Cowpie1]

A motor oil is already 20% additives, just as it comes out of the bottle or jug. And it has a lot of R&D behind it. Adding anything to that can screw up the mix in a way that might be more of a negative than a positive.

Lucas, the grand champion of marketing genius of providing a solution to a problem than doesn't exist. A lot of folks have sent samples of LOS into the oil sample labs to see what is in it. Nothing! It is nothing more than a 250w base oil. Just a higher viscosity base oil. You can find many sample reports on this stuff at the BITOG website that show it has no beneficial additives of any kind in it. If one wants more viscosity, then buy a higher viscosity oil! Don't add Lucas Oil Snot to their engine. That weakens the additive package blend of the motor oil.

Keep in mind, higher viscosity is not "thicker". Base oil molecules are far smaller than even the tightest clearances of a motor. Viscosity is resistance to flow, pure and simple, not thickness. Dust off that high school science book and Isaac Newton will let you know that.

[Intothewild]

So I have a lifter tick when I first start it up and then it goes away but it is there every morning or when it has been off for a while

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by 185EZ

Put in a bottle of seafoam. It's amazing how many things it fixes including gray hair.

Do you drink it or just wash your hair in it.

[edge68474]

Good one Mr. D.

[keymastr]

Originally Posted by Intothewild

So I have a lifter tick when I first start it up and then it goes away but it is there every morning or when it has been off for a while

That is caused by using a filter that does not contain an anti-drainback valve. That allows the oil in the pump to drain back to the pan creating a dry start situation. You can cross reference the filter to find one that has that valve but just buying a different/better brand may work. The Fram filter for my Expedition said it had one but it did not work. Wix filters and Motorcraft worked well.

[96 Softail]

Originally Posted by L.C.Gray

My point is still the same, Lucas is a great product that does everything it says and can make a tired engine go a little farther if you want it to
No so true...with todays "green" oil and how much of the trace metal anti-wear additives they have removed for emissions purposes, your high lift flat tappet cam with a heavy set of valve springs has a life expectancy of about an hour and a half with most of this modern oil. You either add it back in, buy dedicated racing oil or flatten your cam... I got by it for quite a while running oils formulated for diesels, but now even they have gone green and taken out all the good stuff. It's a real problem for the hot rod/vintage car crowd.

Lucas, JB, STP. It’s all snake oil.
As far as hot rodders go (and anyone else), a good synthetic oil will do just fine, as will a quality petroleum oil. Just look at the NHRA, no additives used.
Besides, an RV doesn’t have a high lift cam and heavy valve springs. The above post just doesn’t make sense in the context of this thread.

[96 Softail]

Originally Posted by keymastr

That is caused by using a filter that does not contain an anti-drainback valve. That allows the oil in the pump to drain back to the pan creating a dry start situation. You can cross reference the filter to find one that has that valve but just buying a different/better brand may work. The Fram filter for my Expedition said it had one but it did not work. Wix filters and Motorcraft worked well.

Not true. It’s a product of one or more lifters bleeding down. Lifters should maintain pressure after shut-off. Could also be a timing chain rattle, loose until the oil pressure builds up to tension it.

[tizzyfit]

Remember those infomercials for "Slick 50" I think was the name? They had endorsements from several "respected" car guys that said this stuff would correct everything from fallen arches to bad breath. Now their "wonder" product is no place to be found. I wonder why.

[Intothewild]

Originally Posted by 96 Softail

Not true. It’s a product of one or more lifters bleeding down. Lifters should maintain pressure after shut-off. Could also be a timing chain rattle, loose until the oil pressure builds up to tension it.

Very good point that I did not think of the motor does have over 160000 miles on it thanks

[tuffr2]

I was a true sucker for all the snake oil. I wanted to believe Lucus, Slick 50, Motor Honey, Marvelous Mystery Oil and others. Young and foolish with enough money to buy the snake oil.

Now I believe synthetic oil is slightly better then conventional oil.

Please tell me this is true...[emoji3]