Community Forums

partsben · 10-22-2015, 09:10 AM

Hello again. Still have not purchased a truck. not in any hurry because I think we need to settle on which camper to get first. Now we have again been looking at more campers, may go with a 5th wheel, (instead of the TT's we thought we wanted) really like the looks of those. 36ft with a gvwr of 12350#. Still think the 3/4, 4x4, crew cab, short bed will be enough truck. Anyone have a setup like this? Thanks.

raineman · 10-22-2015, 09:19 AM

Get a 1 ton dually and have all bases covered and peace of mind.

IronCobra · 10-22-2015, 10:55 AM

Yep. Get a dually. So you don't have to get one later.

justafordguy · 10-22-2015, 01:32 PM

If you don't want a dually get a F350 SRW. It will be plenty of truck for that size 5er if properly equipped and only cost a few hundred more than an F250 (which is really the same truck but not rated as high for registration cost purposes).

IronCobra · 10-22-2015, 02:09 PM

Honestly, just go out this weekend and drive every brand and model of HD. You'll find one you like.....

JIMNLIN · 10-22-2015, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Still think the 3/4, 4x4, crew cab, short bed will be enough truck. Anyone have a setup like this? Thanks.

A diesel will have no problems pulling a 12xxx GVWR trailer and the 250/2500 chassis will have no problems carrying a 2k-2.4k lb hitch load plus gear/folks and the hitch.
The 6.0 or 6.2 or 6.4 gas engine can handle that size trailer if your looking at the gazzers.
These trucks have 6100-6500 RAWR and over 3k + payloads.
That size of trailer sure doesn't need a one ton DRW truck.....unless you just want one.

drittal · 10-22-2015, 09:17 PM

2500 cummins C.C. S.B. will have a factory payload rating of 2100-2300 lbs. All available payload will be eaten by pin weight.

Cummins12V98 · 10-23-2015, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IronCobra

Honestly, just go out this weekend and drive every brand and model of HD. You'll find one you like.....

Good advice, I would add make sure they have similar air pressure in the tires as in NOT 80psi in rear tires.

1bigmess · 10-23-2015, 04:13 PM

Or, put 80 PSI in the tires of every truck you try and see how they ride. Apples to apples is a better way to compare, IMO.

rskeans · 10-23-2015, 09:37 PM

A dually will give you room for the future.

Gordon Dewald · 10-23-2015, 09:50 PM

Select the TT or 5er first. Then match the truck to the unit you like.

Parks · 10-23-2015, 11:37 PM

OP, lots of good advice so far and will not try to sway you in any way because there are others with much more experience than I. However, if you do go the Ram route do not be afraid to travel to buy a truck. There seems to be a half 6-8 high volume Ram dealer across the country that provide the absolute best prices. Many standard Ram/Dodge/Chrysler dealer can't or won't come close the the prices the high volume Ram dealers will sell at. There are some exceptions but not often. I would not just look around they town or city.

Over on Ram Forum there is a pretty good consensus that if you ask what Ram dealer has the best price and service, most will say Dennis Dillon Ram in Caldwell, ID. They will have the price you pay listed on their websites. No haggling required and with the prices they give you, you will feel you don't need negotiate. I live 900 miles from Dennis Dillon and ordered my truck, flew up and drove home. Was just over $10,600 off MSRP and still saved about $4500 over any local Socal dealer. Just FYI.

tuffr2 · 10-24-2015, 06:09 AM

I wonder how typical it is to run, say 65 - 70 psi when towing and say 35psi when not towing. I did this on my truck and the ride was way way better at 35 psi then 65 psi.

Cummins12V98 · 10-24-2015, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuffr2

I wonder how typical it is to run, say 65 - 70 psi when towing and say 35psi when not towing. I did this on my truck and the ride was way way better at 35 psi then 65 psi.

I would suggest using the weight/inflation charts. On the rear I would add 5psi and the fronts 10psi to allow for the turning wear.