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Old 07-13-2016, 03:09 PM   #15
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In case the trailer or the hitch come loose, you need to have the break away cable connected to the truck ....not the hitch handle.


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Old 07-13-2016, 03:41 PM   #16
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I just ordered one, a 6 footer. Reviews say the 4' version is actually about 3' and the 6 footer about 5. Both shorter then the package says due to the way it coils and takes useful length. Finally got tired of that dangler grabbing me every time I went under the 5ers front overhang

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Old 07-13-2016, 03:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by crors7 View Post
I had the same problem with the cable being to long, orderd a coil cable, problem solved!

I went to one of these on my 5th after getting that cable caught a couple of times. I cut the loop off the end of the cable and attached it to the Clevis on this and slipped it over the handle on my 26.5K Reese OEM Puck hitch. Never any more problems.

My RIV2Brake came with the same coiled cable for the break away. Works perfect.
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Old 07-14-2016, 04:11 PM   #18
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Thinking "out side the box"
I have no idea if this is reasonable and may be a bad idea, but...
Two thoughts, if you have a bumper pull hitch, could you attach to that? Or some kind of loop on the bumper?
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:09 PM   #19
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Just be sure it doesn't catch on anything and will turn 90 degrees without popping out.
2003 Teton Grand Freedom. 2006 Freightliner Century 120 with Detroit 14L and Ultrashift.. Full time going from job to job. Building and maintaining plants across the USA. Sold 2006 Mobile Suites 32TK3
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Old 07-23-2016, 10:00 PM   #20
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Used an eye bolt through existing hole, don't like it over the handle.
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:00 AM   #21
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I bought one of the springy cables recommended by Atom Ant and it works GREAT... No more pulling out, no more getting stuck under the edge of the hitch........

The only thing I'd recommend is to decide whether you need the FOUR foot or the SIX foot one. I bought the four foot 'cause I didn't want it to possibly hang too low and it seems to work fine!

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