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Old 07-19-2012, 04:27 PM   #1
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Which tow vehicle

Well, we finally made the plunge. We purchased a 2006 Jayco Eagle 323rks. The weight info is as follows: Dry 9195, Hitch 2055, GVWR 12000. Can you tell me what options for a tow vehicle you would suggest? Can we get by with a crew cab truck and still have sufficient turning radius? It has long pin box. Thanks for your help and suggestions.
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:44 PM   #2
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I'm not going to get into brands because each person has their favorite and there own reasons why but I have a one ton crew cab with an eight foot bed and pull a 39 foot 5er. That puts me at 56 foot long and at times the turning radious can be a bit of a hassel but the trade off is with a long tow vehicle you have a much more stable ride. Mine is also a duallys which helps also but I needed the duallys because of my pin weight. With a long TV your turning radious is larger then with a short TV but you soon learn to adjust.
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:58 PM   #3
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I'm not going to get into brands because each person has their favorite and there own reasons why but I have a one ton crew cab with an eight foot bed and pull a 39 foot 5er. That puts me at 56 foot long and at times the turning radious can be a bit of a hassel but the trade off is with a long tow vehicle you have a much more stable ride. Mine is also a duallys which helps also but I needed the duallys because of my pin weight. With a long TV your turning radious is larger then with a short TV but you soon learn to adjust.
We were hopeing of getting a crew cab with a short box. Will that work? Do we need a dually?
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Old 07-19-2012, 09:05 PM   #4
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For that trailer, a 3/4 ton truck, preferably a diesel will probably work, but you need to do the math. You will probably be close on pin weight.

For 5er pulling, I do not like short beds. I like a long bed and you do not have to worry about hitting the corner of the truck and trailer in a tight turn.

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Old 07-19-2012, 09:07 PM   #5
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Are you looking at new or used trucks ?? Bed length doesn't determine a trucks turning radius but the wheelbase sure will.

No, you sure don't need a one ton DRW for a trailer that size unless you just want one.

A 3/4 ton or one ton SRW crew cab shortbed diesel will be a good match for that size trailer.

A used GM 8.1 big block or Fords V-10 will also tow that size trailer with ease but won't pass a gas station. Their a towing beast but fuel hungry.

I wouldn't mess with non of the 3/4 or one ton smallblock gas engines unless your making short local trips in flat country.
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:49 AM   #6
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We were hoping to also use the truck for everyday use. To park it in the garage would be great. That is why we were leaning toward buying a used a 3/4 ton diesel club cab. Can anyone tell us whether the pin weight will be a problem with the 3/4 ton? We were leaning toward maybe around a 2005-2008 Chevy/Gmc duramax with the allison tranny. Any thoughts? thanks
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Old 07-20-2012, 09:32 AM   #7
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I understand your desire for a short bed truck. You may or may not need a sliding hitch if the pin box is long enough and the short bed is at least 6 feet long. I suggest you contact Pull-rite or any of the other mfgrs. for their recommendations regarding their hitches for short bed trucks.
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:57 AM   #8
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I don't like short beds for towing either, first you usually need a slider hitch so you won't hit the cab, another is the small fuel tank they usually put in the short beds, and the other big reason, you almost always need the room to haul STUFF that doesn't fit in the 5th wheel. I've never heard anyone complaining about too much room in their truck, power and room, that's the ticket.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:06 AM   #9
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Can anyone tell us whether the pin weight will be a problem with the 3/4 ton?
If you're trying to stay within the manufacturer's GVWR rating, it all depends. The manufacturer's brochure payload capacity is calculated as GVWR minus the manufacturer's curb weight. The problem is that the manufacturer's curb weight is determined using a base model truck (no options or accessories) with only a 150 lb driver, so the payload capacity is significantly overstated.

Every pound you add above the manufacturer's curb weight is going to have to come off the payload rating. This includes options, accessories (your 5th wheel hitch, the toolbox in the bed, etc.), passengers, cargo, driver's weight over 150 lbs, etc. Your actual laden curb weight could be 800 to 1000 lbs over the manufacturer's curb weight without much problem.

If you size the truck for a pin weight of 2400 lbs (12,000 lbs x 20%), then you'll need a truck whose GVWR minus its LADEN (not manufacturer's) curb weight is greater than 2400 lbs.

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Old 07-20-2012, 01:24 PM   #10
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Any late model pick up will have a Tire and Loading Information sticker on the driver's side door frame. It will have the cargo capacity listed. You will probably have a pin weight problem with a 3/4 ton truck...figure on 20% of the RV's GVWR for PW.
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Old 07-21-2012, 05:28 PM   #11
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OK it sounds like a long box is the why to go. Also a diesel is the preferred engine. That would be fine because we decided to keep our car and it will have the use of the garage. As far as the TV, I am still confused by whether I can go 3/4 ton or if the pin weight requires a one ton. Any help?
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:49 PM   #12
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OK it sounds like a long box is the why to go.
If you need to tow a 5er with a shorty pickup, then all you need is an automatic slider fifth wheel hitch. The Pullrite SuperGlide is the ticket. With a SuperGlide, then your shorty pickup will be just as good as a long bed for towing a 5er for turning or backing into a jacknife without cab to trailer contact.
PullRite has a SAFER, STRONGER, BETTER designed hitch for you

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Also a diesel is the preferred engine.
For a 12,000-pound 5er, definitely. Expensive, but you're worth it.

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As far as the TV, I am still confused by whether I can go 3/4 ton or if the pin weight requires a one ton. Any help?
As a general rule, the answer is no, you cannot tow a 12,000 pound 5er with 2,400 pounds hitch weight with a three-quarter ton pickup without being overloaded.

Example: 2012 F-250 CrewCab 4x4 longbed diesel has a GVWR of 10,000 pounds but will probably weigh over 8,500 when wet and loaded for the road. That leaves only 1,500 pounds for hitch weight without being overloaded. Even if you throw most of the weight out of the truck, you'll still have at most about 2000 pounds of unused payload available for hitch weight.

But the answer is only a coupla hundred bucks more expensive for a new pickup: F-350 SRW diesel has a GVWR of 11,500. It will weigh only a smidgeon more than the F-250, so it has almost 1,500 pounds more payload available for hitch weight. 11,500 GVWR minus 8,500 truck weight leaves 3,000 pound for hitch weight. So that will handle your 2,400 pounds hitch weight with room to spare.

And the F-350 SRW is available either as a shorty or with a long bed. If you really want the shorty, order the shorty pickup and the SuperGlide hitch at the same time.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:09 PM   #13
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We were hoping to also use the truck for everyday use. To park it in the garage would be great. That is why we were leaning toward buying a used a 3/4 ton diesel club cab. Can anyone tell us whether the pin weight will be a problem with the 3/4 ton? We were leaning toward maybe around a 2005-2008 Chevy/Gmc duramax with the allison tranny. Any thoughts? thanks
I tow a 11200 lb 5er with a 2500 Dodge/Cummins short bed. With 2220 lbs of pin weight it puts my trucks 6000 RAWR at 5200 lbs.
The 2500 Dmax/A is about 150 lbs lighter on its 6084 RAWR so you have that much more to work with.

Generally many 2500 GM owners have 2700-2800 lbs of payload to work with. The trucks you mention will work fine for that size 5er. Now if your going to carry the kitchen sink/a aux fuel tank/lots of green firewood/bicycles/etc then you may need a DRW.

Get the truck with the bed length you want. Short or long both will work.
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:58 AM   #14
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I tow a 11200 lb 5er with a 2500 Dodge/Cummins short bed. With 2220 lbs of pin weight it puts my trucks 6000 RAWR at 5200 lbs.
Much of the discussion on this thread has dealt with GVWR. Although I know that you choose to ignore it, you might want to share where you stand relative to your manufacturer's GVWR just for the benefit of the newbies who are working their way through the numbers.

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