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Old 05-24-2009, 06:23 PM   #1
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Question Back bed is sagging

This is our new Cub. The back double bed looks like it is sagging a little both inside and outside. We can't figure it out. We tried switching the poles from the front to the back but that won't work because they are different sizes. The cord inside that keeps it from flipping all the way down while setting up isn't even tight, it has some slack. My dh said that there may be a bent support piece and is going to try to bend it back a little. Any suggestions or experience with this??
Thanks for your responses!!
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:23 AM   #2
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I would try and find another support so it will support both ends of bed platform.
The tire may make that difficult but you my be able to make a extension off bumper to support the brace. Most foldout beds on pop-ups we have had had two brace supports. Have even added a 1" board across platform for more firm support.

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Old 05-27-2009, 12:10 PM   #3
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007 - Thank you for the reply! So you mean attach something to the bumper and insert the pole into that to increase the support? We have the 2 support poles under it and it still does that. We never had anything like that with our popup.
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:31 PM   #4
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Your front bed looks level does it have two bars for support? You may have room on other side of tire to mount into bumper. The back end canopy looks large with slack in canvas, if you can get bed platfrom level first so no slope in bed, than check to see if you can dress excess canvas inside TT so it will look ok. Builder may have put wrong bed canvas for opening you have.
You should level main body of TT than measure bed platform level for size of support bars you will need to keep it that way. Use 2x4's to support bed to do this.
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Old 05-31-2009, 12:08 AM   #5
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We have a 05' Aerolite Cub where it was doing the same thing. But we have a different type of bunk support system. We don't have any outside poles. The newer ones are supported by inside cables only. One on each side of the bunk ends. I have noticed a few people with newer Cubs having problems with the bunk material separating at the top of the bunk where it attaches to the trailer wall near the roof line. About a year ago I notice mine had a small 1" area that looked like it was starting to separate. The root cause is there are 3 adjustment holes where the cable attaches inside. The factory would use the lowest hole which in turn allow the bunk to rest about a 1/2" lower. I'm assuming after a few years the material would shrink a hair causing the material to be tighter , thus pulling at the seam on the top of the bunk ends. I moved the cable to the middle hole, which in turn gave the bunk material more room, thus not pull at the seam at the top of the bunk ends as tight.
Take a look at the top of your bunk ends and see if you are seeing any material pulling away from the seam that runs along the top of the bunk ends.
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:43 PM   #6
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Thank you again for all of the replies. My husband ended up moving the brackets down about an inch on the bed to make the bed level. It looks and feels great now. What my thought is....someone before us either lost or damaged a pole and got 2 replacements that weren't quite the correct size but close enough....hence the slight sag.
Oh well, it all worked out and thanks again for the responses!
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:32 PM   #7
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Keep an eye on the tenting material on the top of your bunk ends. The extra stress might have caused the material to tear.....
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Old 08-09-2009, 08:28 PM   #8
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Thanks Jim for the tip. I'll keep an eye on my bunk ends. I did notice the material being tight against the top like you said.. We haven't had a chance to get out more like we wanted this year. Now that I'm healing, we might be able to..
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:13 PM   #9
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I really didn't notice mine being that tight till another Cub owner with a newer one showed me where to look. To get a good look you need to get on a small ladder to look along the top where the tenting material meets the molding or channel ("J" channel) that attaches the tent material to the trailer.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:39 PM   #10
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Very interesting Jim regarding the ends sagging. I will not be able to look at mine until next week, which is the day we go on vacation. This is do to living on a steep hill & can not get level ground in my area & I do not have time to move it out this week. Just in case, I will prepare for a sag. & make the adjustment if needed at the campground. My ends at the top where you mention are not tearing away, but I'm almost for certain that there is a sag. I also believe most trailers have a sag because cables stretch over time. Also your 2005 model has the adjustment holes, where as the 2004 does not. This would indicate to me that they knew about this problem & added the adjustment holes to the newly design 2005 models. Just curious, what is the space between the adjustment holes? If adjustment needed for my 2004 I could screw a self tap screw to the steel frame that it is already in. I'm also curious if other people have used a long level inside their bed to see if level? Thanks, JD
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:40 AM   #11
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I would guess the best way to check to see if bunk is level is to level the trailer first by placing a long level inside on the floor & when I get it level then place the level in the bunk to see if it is level. Does this sound about right on how to go about it? Thanks, JD
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:11 PM   #12
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I first found out about this possible sagging problem from another Cub owner who brought it to may attention. I think it is a combination of the cables stretching a bit and the tenting material shrinking a bit from age. If let un-attended, it could cause the material at the top to tare all the way across. Here is a picture of mine

So I un-bolted the shoulder bolt at the bracket inside the bunkend and moved it to the middle hole. If I remember it was about an inch between each of the 3 holes in the bracket that holds the cable. Once you move it you will notice that the velcro will be a little easier to stick to the bunk edge. Doing this I think raised the bunk maybe 1/2". This may not sound like a lot, but it gives the tenting material more slack.

We sold our 05' Cub a month ago and are taking delivery on a new Aerolite hybrid this Friday. After 380 nights of camping in 7 seasons the 05' held up very well. They don't call them Cub's anymore. Aerolite just calls the hybrid the "Shuttle Series". I think the name Cub gave the hybrids an identity. We bought the 232es floorplan.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:53 AM   #13
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Thanks for the information Jim. Yes I remember the Velcro seems to be difficult to line up & is tight. I can't wait to get a level in there & see how off it is. I already checked the top section last month & glad it is not separating. WOW the Aerolite Hybrid #232 ES is very nice, there is so many great things about it, how exciting. I found this walk through video on Youtube, what a beauty.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:35 AM   #14
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Actually the videos on Youtube are from the early 2012 models. In Sept. they changed a bunch of things. They went to frameless windows, the exterior color is now a light gray. All the exterior trim covers (awning arms, frig vent AC cover) are now black. Even on Aerolites website they have the old trailer pictures. ??? You would think with the new look you would want the public to see a new look. With the frameless windows all you see is glass. It gives the whole RV a clean look..Here is where we bought it from. Ohio RV Wholesale.Its the only website that has the new / updated widows. Just click on 232E for the pictures...saved about $4-5k buying here. It will be worth the 2 hour drive.....

I'll be picking up my new Aerolite tomorrow. When I called last week for a VIN# they said it will now be titled as a 2013. I didn't think they did the model year change over this early...we'll see....The 52 gallon fresh water tank is a big plus.

Didn't even look at the Jayco hybrids with their 22 gallon fresh water tanks. That is a deal killer. We do a lot of 7 night stays, which would means no showering in the RV. Or 4-5 night stays in National Parks with no showers other than your own RV....

In the new RV there is no more velcro. Everything is attached, so when you pull the bunkend door down, the material is attached.
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