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padlin00 · 05-16-2019, 01:07 PM

Going through my brothers 2008 Jay feather 23B. Looking to add a layer of caulk around the front bunk, between the siding and the outer trim. Any oidea what to use? I have some Proflex if that'll do. I'm not going to remove the old as it would amount to removing all the trim. Cleaned it with Acetone.

Spoonsize · 05-16-2019, 06:52 PM

Proflex might work. I would use a putty knife to remove any original excess caulk.

Steve721 · 05-19-2019, 06:11 AM

That's what I'm in the process of doing right now. Clean up and recaulk everything. We just bought our 05 StarCraft and found caulk that was loose n places. Everything inside is tight except where there was a leak in the bathroom skylight. The previous owner said he fixed it, but in working in the bathroom to repair the ceiling damage from before, I am still finding damp areas in the ceiling. I've been using Proflex in my repairs, but I don't know what the previous owner used on the skylight. I have a feeling it was just some window caulk from home depot. I'll be pulling off that stuff off and see what is going on around that.

padlin00 · 05-20-2019, 04:48 AM

I'd suggest Dicor Self Leveling for around the Skylight, use it for pretty much everything on the roof. I was worried about cutting the rubber roof and just cleaned the old caulk and surrounding area.

Superslif · 05-21-2019, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by padlin00

I'd suggest Dicor Self Leveling for around the Skylight, use it for pretty much everything on the roof. I was worried about cutting the rubber roof and just cleaned the old caulk and surrounding area.

Avoid cutting into the rubber roof.

Having owned two Aerolite hybrids (2005 & 2013) two water leak areas come to mind.

#1 On both that I owned, especially towing in a driving rain, the front bunk would leak. To help I added a 1/2 round self-stick additional rubber gasket on top of the factory rubber seal on thel front bunk door lip. That gave it a tighter seal.

#2 as the bunk end canvas material ages, it shrinks slightly causing it to tear in the upper corners where it attaches to the trailer wall. When I first saw this happening I added some flexible glue and adjusted the cables ( that support the bunk inside) up one hole so the bunk when in it's open position was a 1/2" less when opened. Thus cause less stress on those corner areas.

Picture of corner

Steve721 · 05-22-2019, 03:59 AM

Well I finally got around to working the skylight. Removed all the old caulking. I decided to pull the skylight to clean old caulk from under it and start fresh. Found 1 whole side of the skylight was cracked. Have a new one coming and it comes with Dicor self leveling sealant. I'll be using that. For now I have it covered and praying for no rain.

Pappion · 05-26-2019, 10:40 AM

I used Goo Gone to remove old caulk, even removes silicon caulk. Still takes some work. I used plastic razor blade scrapers from Ace Hardware. They don't cut. Might have to do it 2-3 times to get all the silicon sealant. Also used Denatured Alcohol to remove Goo Gone sheen. I resealed the roofs vents and sky lights with Eterna Bond RV roofing tape. Really amazing stuff.
https://www.williamsacehardware.com/...7C1590025.html
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Goo-Gone-32...ver/1000139885
https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RS...gateway&sr=8-3

Steve721 · 05-27-2019, 06:21 AM

I ordered some of that eternabond tape. Should be here today. I'm going to use that as a precaution after the skylight is caulked and screwed in place. Saw a video of how it works and it looks really good. Been using goo gone. Slow process, but it works. Everyone says you don't have to remove all the old caulk, but to me I think it would be best to start with a clean smooth area. Just my opinion.

Pappion · 05-27-2019, 02:16 PM

Steve,

Applying the Eternabond is an art. It sticks to its self all too well. Don't try it on a windy day

. You only get 1 good shot at it, no repositioning possible.
I learned to: Mark where the (side) edges are to go (pencil or washable marker). Apply it as it unrolls. Line up about a foot of tape. Start at one end, remove about 1 inch of backing exposing the goo and place it well. Then expose more goo, press in place, leaving some room to pull and expose more goo. Unroll more. Repeat until the end. Cut with a sharp disposable razor knife. (It's hard to clean the Goo off a blade.)

https://www.amazon.com/Utility-Retra...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

BTW: My A-Frame roof does not have enough "meat" to take screws. It also flexes which makes all sealants a temporary fix. Well, I drive some rough roads.
Steve, I like how your sealing yours..