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Old 07-28-2011, 06:35 PM   #1
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cub hybrid bunk replacement

My front bunk was leaking before I got it. I need to replace it and I'm wondering the best way to go about it and if anyone else has done it. Any insight is greatly appreciated! Kelly
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Old 07-30-2011, 04:57 PM   #2
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First off what year is your Cub?

I remember 2001 to about 2003/4 they had problems with bunk doors (warped) one year and also the rubber seal in another year.

We have a 05' which is the first year they went to the 8' wide floorplans. So far no problem, but I have had to re-caulk the lower trim piece on the front bunk.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:24 AM   #3
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It's a 2000 model 19', I am wanting to replace the wood inside the bunk and keep the exterior (vinyl?) The same with what I have... it is already separating so removing won't be a big deal (famous last words)
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
I am wanting to replace the wood inside the bunk and keep the exterior (vinyl?)
You mean you want to replace rotted wood core, but keep the outer skin which is thin fiberglass (I think it's called Filon). Do you have a hinge that runs the whole width of the bunk door?

It might be doable. On ours there is a "U" shaped trim piece that runs around the whole door, sandwiching the wood core and outer fiberglass. The problem is if water gets past the caulk on the trim piece it will cause the Filon and wood to "delam". if you can remove the trim piece without damaging it, you can cut a new piece of wood to replace the old rotted one. Are your corners rounded on top two corners of the door?
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:03 AM   #5
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Yes the hinge runs all the way across the bunk and the tops are rounded. Thanks for the replies guys!
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:37 PM   #6
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Is the wood core bad enough that the whole bunk door has to be replaced?
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:13 PM   #7
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Unhappy Bunk Replacement

I replaced both bunk doors on my 19' 2000 Cub in 2005. Very expensive to have it done by an RV repair shop. Now the seals around both doors has dry rotted and I am having trouble finding the seals. Does anyone have an idea where I can get them.
Thanks
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:38 PM   #8
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I have a 2000 F19 Cub and also need to replace the wood in the front fold down. I have to find the leak first (molding and weather stripping probably) but I wonder if there are any web sites that show how to replace the front bed? I have leaks and of course a visit by a squirrel who did a job on our refig.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:57 AM   #9
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When I purchased my trailer I got it at a really good price because of this this exact same problem you are mentioning. The seller left both ends out & forgot about it through the winter snow. The snow was above the pop-out beds & when it melted it leaked through & caused the end of the wood to expand where the bracket were. This happened to both ends & the bed detached from the bracket falling to the ground. Also the outside fiberglass detached from the outside framing. I would estimate about a foot of the wood from the bracket was the damaged & flimsy. This trailer was in tip top shape, hardly used & everything worked, even the tent popouts looked new. That is why I purchased the trailer even with the bed end problems. At first it really seemed horrible & I thought I was going to have to completely dismantle each end, replaced the filon wood that was sandwiched. I was about to go on vacation & came up with a quick fix. Infact it worked so well I decided to leave it as it is. This is what I did, I realized that the bed was sturdy, but the last foot was not. I took the bed entirely out & placed it in the garage. I made sure the area was completely dry & then put liquid nails in the damaged area of about 1 foot all the way across & placed some weight on it to dry overnight. I purchased a piece of wood that goes on the side of houses. I’m not even sure it is wood, but it is very sturdy & hard. It is about 8” wide & between ” to 3/8” thick, it measures exactly 5/16 thick, but can not remember how they sell it or 3/8. I cut the wood measured from side to side, same distance of bracket. I removed all the bad rusted out screws, which should have been longer in the first place & purchase new self tap metal screws. I placed the wood over the bracket and lined up bracket, marked it & then drilled holes through the wood. Next I screwed the screws through wood & bracket. Underneath the bracket is a steel frame that you need to go through. I forgot to mention the 8” ends of the wood should also have screws through it, it also goes through a steel frame. Before you screw it together make sure the outside is secured underneath the little outside metal frame. The wood is primered & is in the same color family as the bed, so it does not show that much, besides the bed cushion is over it anyways. I guess you could add extra boards making it 16” or 24”, but one 8” board seemed to do the job. It is very strong; I tested almost 700 lbs which was two kids, wife & myself. It seems to hold up well, we jumped all over it & it does not give. Maybe someone would like to try this first, instead of a complete teardown of the bed. It worked for me & I’m very happy with the results. Don’t forget to use silicon on the outside frame/fiberglass, in fact you might as well go around the entire trailer & seal it up. Hope this help, good luck. JD
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:52 PM   #10
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Don’t forget to use silicon on the outside frame/fiberglass, in fact you might as well go around the entire trailer & seal it up. Hope this help, good luck. JD
When I had my 05' Cub about a year or two ago I noticed the bottom silicon at the bottom edge of the bunkend was not looking very good. Around the screws that hold the hinge for the bunk door I applied a little wood stabilizer. Then I carefully re-caulked the outer seam on the bottom edge of the bunk door.

On any RV, failed caulking leads to water getting in....could be windows, doors, roof vents....
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