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Old 01-18-2018, 09:56 AM   #15
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YouTube

I found this site Big Truck Big RV on youtube.

Very informative.

He covers tires, suspension, hitch weight, one-piece shower units, gas/electric refrigerators vs household fridge. You name it, he covers it.

He even has a segment on smaller trailers.

https://youtu.be/xyw-2iUju04
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Old 01-24-2018, 09:39 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ampersandi View Post
My husband and I are looking to buy our first trailer! As exciting as this is, I feel like we're in over our heads with how much there is to learn... Hoping the wonderful folks of this site can help!

We are looking for a lightweight trailer with no slideouts, under ~20'. Our tow vehicle is a 2009 4WD Honda Pilot (towing capacity 4500 lb), so we would like to keep GVWR under ~3600 lb. It is just us and a small dog, so something that sleeps only 2 is just fine. Budget is $15000 (somewhat flexible).

We've been looking around and have found a few trailers that we think would work for us that meet our criteria:

Jayco Hummingbird 16FD (UVW: 2535, GVWR: 3500, NCC: 965, hitch weight: 270, length: 18.8', height: 9.2', width: 8.1')

Venture Sonic Lite SL149VML (UVW: 2745, GVWR: 3500, NCC: 755, hitch weight: 290, length: 19.2', height: 9.4', width: 7.5')

Does anyone have any experience with either of the above - good or bad?
Can our Honda Pilot handle these trailers?
Are there any other, similar trailers that we should take a look at?
Any other advice for some newbies?

Thanks!


You should look at the Rockwood mini lites and the Geo-pros. Quality trailers and a step up from entry level. Things to consider...are you ok with one of you crawling over the other to get out of bed?(sideways beds). Heated enclosed underbelly can extend your camping season. Ducted air can give you a quieter air conditioning, otherwise keep ear plugs handy. No sink in the bathroom is doable but you're either spitting into the toilet or the kitchen sink. The shower...can you actually use it? Have fun and good luck with the decision. We have just ordered a Rockwood mini lite 2109s.
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Old 01-25-2018, 07:10 PM   #17
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Let us know how you like your new Rockwood and what its actual weight is versus the brochure weight when you get it. 4,250 lbs for Unloaded Vehicle Weight sounds on the heavy side for a “mini lite”. Nice floorlan. I really like rear-entry plans with the noisy fridge exhaust not on the right side wall where you want your chairs under the awning and relaxing.
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Old 01-29-2018, 05:31 PM   #18
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Yes, I'm getting excited for spring, will let you know. The weight is higher than some, but I think it's due to them not skimping. 2-30lb propane tanks. Curved glass shower doors. Wood cabinetry. Slide=200lbs. Tandem axles=250lbs. Solid surface counter tops. TV included. We've looked at a lot of trailers, and our old brand, Coachmen Apex, has skimped a lot now...they don't even have a shower surround in the bathroom like our old one, and the frames aren't as heavy.
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Old 02-09-2018, 07:53 AM   #19
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Before you decide on a trailer there are several factors that you need to take into consideration with your tow vehicle. I will list them for you, please ask if you have any questions.

GVWR (Gross Vehicle weight rating) = This is the total your vehicle can handle including the vehicle tounge weight of the trailer occupants fuel and cargo. You cannot safely exceed this.

GCWR (Gross Combined weight rating) = This is the total your vehicle with the trailer attached can weigh. You cannot safely exceed this.

GAWR (Gross Axle weight rating) This is the maximum weight you can put on the front and rear axles of the vehicle. This can be managed by using a good weight distribution hitch to move weight to the front of the SUV and rear to the trailer axles. You cannot safely exceed this.

All the information above is available from Honda either through documentation or on the door stickers.

I do have a nifty excel file that calculates what you vehicle can safely tow. If you would like a copy please private message me and I will email you a copy. I am not trying to discourage you from using the Honda as a tow vehicle but I have my doubts it will be able to do what want safely. When we started our journey we had a Jeep Liberty with a 5000lbs tow capacity and quickly determined that it would not tow more than a pop up camper safely. Others will disagree with me but numbers don't lie and don't think your will work with the trailers you are looking at. We ended up getting a second hand F150 and upgraded to a 25ft travel trailer and we do not have any issues towing through any weather conditions.

One last question is does the Honda have the factory trailer tow package? This is important as it would have then come with transmission cooler, engine oil cooler and factory hitch on the back of the SUV. If it did not you will also need to add a transmission cooler at a very minimum.

Good Luck with the search and please feel free to ask me any questions you may have.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:23 PM   #20
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WOW! Weight police show up with 1 post.....Can you define safely? I'm confused..
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rampowerwago View Post
WOW! Weight police show up with 1 post.....Can you define safely? I'm confused..
sorta looks like this i think...

https://youtu.be/nd-hUX8memY?t=2m6s

A maxed out rear end suspension has a harder time controlling a bumper pull
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Old 03-01-2018, 09:15 AM   #22
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Not trying to be weight police as much as I am simply stating what the manufacturer of the vehicle has advised is its maximums. No where did I state they should not do it nor did I comment on their particular setup. I simply stated what they should be looking for, sometimes new campers are not aware of all the different weights they need to take into consideration it is not just simply about towing capacity. The fact that I have only made one post on this forum seems moot but ok. I have been rv'ing with my father since the early 70's and with my family for the last 20 years. So yeah I have seen a lot of good decisions by campers and whole lot of bad. Just trying to help people avoid the bad. If you feel I stated something incorrect please comment more than a one liner with actual advice or rebuttal of the points I made. Otherwise you are simply trolling and not worth any more dialogue.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:12 AM   #23
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If you feel I am not worthy, fine.... But you are like all the rest of the weight police when you express your opinion about safety. Define safely for me. That should be simple for one with such a mountain of towing kmowledge as you have.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:46 AM   #24
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There is no need to respond further to such an asinine question. Operating safely within the specifications of the manufacturer of the TV with the approval of the DOT. If you feel these don't need to be followed please elaborate.
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:11 PM   #25
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Typical, can't answer a simple question.
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:56 PM   #26
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Ram, no reason to be persnickety. The OP was asking for advice and the good folks here are obliging and trying to help...both on camper and TV. We’ve all made mistakes in the past and hope to pass on some hard-knock knowledge.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:00 PM   #27
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Buy when its warm

Buy when it is warm our if you live in the North, I bought a 2006 rockwood roo and all the soft spots where frozen and I could feel if they where soft or not. Turns out I have a crap ton of soft spots that can be felt from inside not out.
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:30 AM   #28
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Buy when it is warm our if you live in the North, I bought a 2006 rockwood roo and all the soft spots where frozen and I could feel if they where soft or not. Turns out I have a crap ton of soft spots that can be felt from inside not out.
Very good point. Any used RV unit over 6-7 years old or older, water damage should be your #1 concern. Both from the roof and the floor. A leak entering from the roof may find it's way down to the floor area, causing a soft floor. Be careful around the area just inside the doorway as some designs had bolts thru the floor to support the step. Instead of the steps being attached to the frame, they had 4 attachment points thru the floor. Very prevalent on trailers with Euro type frames. When you step on the step to enter does it fell mushy. Where the bolts went thru the floor, they used 2" washers. With time, those washers started to work their way thru the wood and foam floor structure.

The reason for this was the "popular" use of the "Euro" frame. The Euro frame used on light weight trailers are the ones rather than a "I" beam, they used stamped steel with oval holes punched out for strength. ( to cut down on weight over a "I" beam frame) The problem with this frame type, the rigidness or stiffness of the frame is now dependent on the floor structure instead of the "I" beam type frame. Also there were issues on this frame type when they used it on longer 25' to 32' trailers because they would "twist" or "roll". Used on units from the late 90's to maybe 2008/2009.
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