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Old 08-09-2014, 05:48 PM   #1
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No Water Pressure

Hi Guys/Gals,
I have a 21' Bantam Trail-Lite from R-Vision that I bought 12 years ago. I didn't use it the past 2 years but had winterized it (live near Toronto, Canada). The problem is after draining some of the anti-freeze via the drains under the trailer, I find that after hooking up the water, there is absolutely no pressure coming from the taps.

The hot water heater seems to be filling but still no pressure anywhere. This is the first time I've had this problem. Is there a water regulator somewhere, or are the lines plugged?

Any suggestions would help. Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:01 PM   #2
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Are there valves to change from winterize to whatever?
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:04 PM   #3
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check your by-pass valves,make sure they are closed.they may have been left open after you winterized it.
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:56 PM   #4
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All the valves are back in their summer positions. I never use the fresh water tank but maybe I'll try filling it and use the water pump first. Maybe there's air in the lines.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:14 PM   #5
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Is there a screen at the fitting where you hook up the fresh water hose, is it clean and free of rust. Is your valve se to city water or tank fill? It may take a few min. to fill the water heater before you actually have pressure in the water lines.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:47 PM   #6
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Okay, so what I thought was going to be simple de-winterizing ended being three problems.

The lack of water pressure was probably air in the lines. There was a release valve by the hot water heater that I opened & released a bit more water and probably some air. The city water worked at that point.

But I have a broken cartridge in the hot water faucet in the shower. There was also a water leak coming out from that area into the kitchen that I thought was coming from the broken faucet.

However when I removed the back panel to the shower, it was dry there, so I think there's a leak in in one of the water hoses around the shower area. Unfortunately I'm going to have to cut out a piece of the paneling to get in there & locate it.

So I have my work cut out for me tomorrow. I just hope an rv centre open near me. I'll let you know how it all works out.

Thanks for the help.

-R
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:32 PM   #7
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I've sorted out the water problems (had a couple of leaks around the tubs area and have to replace the water faucets) but I also want to re-do some of the caulking on the roof and around the trailer in places. I don't have any visible specific leaks there, even though there are some cracks in the caulking.

I've got ProFlex for the roof. Do I just go over the original caulking or do I need to remove it? Same goes for around windows and other caulking around the sides.

Thanks again.

-R



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Old 08-18-2014, 10:20 PM   #8
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It depends upon what your roof it made of. If it is of EDPM(rubber) then make sure that you get a caulk that is approved for use on EDPM as the wrong caulk will destroy the membrane. If the roof is made of aluminum then it is pretty forgiving and the same is true for fiberglass.

I would use a plastic scraper and carefully remove as much of the old caulking as you possibly can. Be sure that whatever caulk you choose is of the self leveling type so that it will sink down into any openings or cracks to completely fill them. And never use a caulking material of silicone on a roof.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:26 PM   #9
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Thanks for the reply, Kirk.

I actually used Dicor Lap Sealant on parts of the caulking that had cracked. I didn't take the old caulking off because the rv shop told me not to bother. It was also on there pretty good and would've been hard to remove with a plastic scraper.

I have another question though, again it has to do with the water system. I replaced the city water inlet as that seemed to be broken and causing the low water pressure. The pressure works fine now although the new inlet makes a weird whining sound whenever any of the faucets are turned on. It could be annoying to the other campers.

Any idea what may be causing this?

-Rainer
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:53 PM   #10
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I have a 2004 Trail Lite bantam 19 and mine makes the same whining noise right when I hook up to city water and turn the water on (at the outside faucet). After that initial time I don't hear it any more.

Do you have a pressure regulator between your city water hose and the city water inlet?
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionix View Post
Thanks for the reply, Kirk.
I actually used Dicor Lap Sealant on parts of the caulking that had cracked. I didn't take the old caulking off because the rv shop told me not to bother. It was also on there pretty good and would've been hard to remove with a plastic scraper.
-Rainer
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The beat method is to remove the old caulking an apply 4"wide white Eternabond Tape: EternaBond

If you do intend to remove the heavily applied old caulking I recommend one of these, (with a scraper blade attached):
Multifunction Oscillating Power Tool - 1.6 Amp, 120 Volt

I've used putty knives and plastic scrapers in the past, but NEVER AGAIN!

Mel
'96 Safari
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:53 AM   #12
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Thanks for that info, Mel.

-R

Quote:
Originally Posted by mel s View Post
bionix
The beat method is to remove the old caulking an apply 4"wide white Eternabond Tape: EternaBond

If you do intend to remove the heavily applied old caulking I recommend one of these, (with a scraper blade attached):
Multifunction Oscillating Power Tool - 1.6 Amp, 120 Volt

I've used putty knives and plastic scrapers in the past, but NEVER AGAIN!

Mel
'96 Safari
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:55 AM   #13
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No, I don't have one. Went camping over the weekend and noise is actually not that bad.

-R

Quote:
Originally Posted by Loraura View Post
I have a 2004 Trail Lite bantam 19 and mine makes the same whining noise right when I hook up to city water and turn the water on (at the outside faucet). After that initial time I don't hear it any more.

Do you have a pressure regulator between your city water hose and the city water inlet?
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