|
08-09-2014, 04:48 PM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
|
No Water Pressure
Hi Guys/Gals,
I have a 21' Bantam Trail-Lite from R-Vision that I bought 12 years ago. I didn't use it the past 2 years but had winterized it (live near Toronto, Canada). The problem is after draining some of the anti-freeze via the drains under the trailer, I find that after hooking up the water, there is absolutely no pressure coming from the taps.
The hot water heater seems to be filling but still no pressure anywhere. This is the first time I've had this problem. Is there a water regulator somewhere, or are the lines plugged?
Any suggestions would help. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
08-09-2014, 05:01 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
|
Are there valves to change from winterize to whatever?
|
|
|
08-09-2014, 05:04 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Aiken,SC
Posts: 1,025
|
check your by-pass valves,make sure they are closed.they may have been left open after you winterized it.
__________________
Good Sam Life Members
Served in U.S.A.F.
|
|
|
08-09-2014, 05:56 PM
|
#4
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
|
All the valves are back in their summer positions. I never use the fresh water tank but maybe I'll try filling it and use the water pump first. Maybe there's air in the lines.
|
|
|
08-09-2014, 07:14 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ft wayne Indiana
Posts: 479
|
Is there a screen at the fitting where you hook up the fresh water hose, is it clean and free of rust. Is your valve se to city water or tank fill? It may take a few min. to fill the water heater before you actually have pressure in the water lines.
|
|
|
08-09-2014, 07:47 PM
|
#6
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
|
Okay, so what I thought was going to be simple de-winterizing ended being three problems.
The lack of water pressure was probably air in the lines. There was a release valve by the hot water heater that I opened & released a bit more water and probably some air. The city water worked at that point.
But I have a broken cartridge in the hot water faucet in the shower. There was also a water leak coming out from that area into the kitchen that I thought was coming from the broken faucet.
However when I removed the back panel to the shower, it was dry there, so I think there's a leak in in one of the water hoses around the shower area. Unfortunately I'm going to have to cut out a piece of the paneling to get in there & locate it.
So I have my work cut out for me tomorrow. I just hope an rv centre open near me. I'll let you know how it all works out.
Thanks for the help.
-R
|
|
|
08-13-2014, 09:32 PM
|
#7
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
|
I've sorted out the water problems (had a couple of leaks around the tubs area and have to replace the water faucets) but I also want to re-do some of the caulking on the roof and around the trailer in places. I don't have any visible specific leaks there, even though there are some cracks in the caulking.
I've got ProFlex for the roof. Do I just go over the original caulking or do I need to remove it? Same goes for around windows and other caulking around the sides.
Thanks again.
-R
|
|
|
08-18-2014, 09:20 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Part-time out of Mesquite, TX
Posts: 1,103
|
It depends upon what your roof it made of. If it is of EDPM(rubber) then make sure that you get a caulk that is approved for use on EDPM as the wrong caulk will destroy the membrane. If the roof is made of aluminum then it is pretty forgiving and the same is true for fiberglass.
I would use a plastic scraper and carefully remove as much of the old caulking as you possibly can. Be sure that whatever caulk you choose is of the self leveling type so that it will sink down into any openings or cracks to completely fill them. And never use a caulking material of silicone on a roof.
|
|
|
08-19-2014, 09:26 PM
|
#9
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
|
Thanks for the reply, Kirk.
I actually used Dicor Lap Sealant on parts of the caulking that had cracked. I didn't take the old caulking off because the rv shop told me not to bother. It was also on there pretty good and would've been hard to remove with a plastic scraper.
I have another question though, again it has to do with the water system. I replaced the city water inlet as that seemed to be broken and causing the low water pressure. The pressure works fine now although the new inlet makes a weird whining sound whenever any of the faucets are turned on. It could be annoying to the other campers.
Any idea what may be causing this?
-Rainer
|
|
|
08-20-2014, 11:53 AM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Austin,TX
Posts: 464
|
I have a 2004 Trail Lite bantam 19 and mine makes the same whining noise right when I hook up to city water and turn the water on (at the outside faucet). After that initial time I don't hear it any more.
Do you have a pressure regulator between your city water hose and the city water inlet?
|
|
|
08-20-2014, 01:08 PM
|
#11
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,777
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bionix
Thanks for the reply, Kirk.
I actually used Dicor Lap Sealant on parts of the caulking that had cracked. I didn't take the old caulking off because the rv shop told me not to bother. It was also on there pretty good and would've been hard to remove with a plastic scraper.
-Rainer
|
bionix
The beat method is to remove the old caulking an apply 4"wide white Eternabond Tape: EternaBond
If you do intend to remove the heavily applied old caulking I recommend one of these, (with a scraper blade attached):
Multifunction Oscillating Power Tool - 1.6 Amp, 120 Volt
I've used putty knives and plastic scrapers in the past, but NEVER AGAIN!
Mel
'96 Safari
|
|
|
08-26-2014, 10:53 AM
|
#12
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
|
Thanks for that info, Mel.
-R
Quote:
Originally Posted by mel s
bionix
The beat method is to remove the old caulking an apply 4"wide white Eternabond Tape: EternaBond
If you do intend to remove the heavily applied old caulking I recommend one of these, (with a scraper blade attached):
Multifunction Oscillating Power Tool - 1.6 Amp, 120 Volt
I've used putty knives and plastic scrapers in the past, but NEVER AGAIN!
Mel
'96 Safari
|
|
|
|
08-26-2014, 10:55 AM
|
#13
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
|
No, I don't have one. Went camping over the weekend and noise is actually not that bad.
-R
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loraura
I have a 2004 Trail Lite bantam 19 and mine makes the same whining noise right when I hook up to city water and turn the water on (at the outside faucet). After that initial time I don't hear it any more.
Do you have a pressure regulator between your city water hose and the city water inlet?
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|