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Old 03-15-2012, 08:19 AM   #15
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Yes, pictures will help...

Your RV's exterior walls are what they call Filon ( not sure if I'm spelling it right) fiberglass. In otherwords "cheap" mans fiberglass. Once you get into more pricey RV's then they use regular smooth fiberglass which is much thicker. When referring to this Filon is any of it separating from it's lauan plywood backer? meaning are there any areas of "delam"?

As far as putting too much $$ into any repairs. For a 2000 tt any resale value is and should be a minor issue. You got a far cheaper price to start with, so at least you didn't pay more and have problems.

We just sold our 05' tt a few weeks ago, and the bill of sale stated it was being sold as is.....I spent maybe an hour going over every square inch of the RV and pointed out things to watch for. Water leaks are going to be your #1 thing in preserving this nice RV....Having camped 380 nights in 7 seasons, I kept a very watchfully eye on all upkeep. On my roof I would clean it 3-4 times a season and literally get down on my hands & knees to look at every caulk line, and especially the top of every window.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:18 AM   #16
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Wishing you the best of luck in your project.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsubob2003 View Post

I don't understand why to not use 100% silicone but I will take your advice and use the self leveling stuff.
You did not say yet if your roof is rubber? If you did, I missed it.

Assuming the roof is rubber, the silicone caulk will eat through the rubber membrane over time. The rubber is made by Dicor. The Dicor caulk is made for it. Use it so you do not create future grief.

The Etrernabond works well, but it is EXPENSIVE and has to be applied correctly or there will be problems later. The Dicor caulk is a lot cheaper, but has to be CLOSELY INSPECTED at least once a year. You have to push/pull on the caulk line to verify that no cracks open up.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:58 AM   #18
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In re: silicone caulk

It was never designed for, nor will it perform in a waterproof outdoor application. It will fail sooner rather than later (if not immediately) and nothing, not even more silicone will bond to the top of it.

You will then find yourself spending uncounted hours removing EVERY STINKING PARTICLE of silicone before you can re-caulk or paint or repair.

Someone will no doubt pipe up and say we're all crazy and silicone works perfectly on their RV- contrast that to the next 50 guys who will tell you the story of gobs of useless silicone NOT sealing the leaky roof/windows/sidewalls on their own RV. Some folks (like the previous owner of my own MH) believe and trust in silicone like it was told to them in the Good Book.

I've come to believe that if you see silicone anywhere on a prospective motor home (except for that thin factory line on the top of the windows- used to prevent black streaks from the butyl caulk) you have proof positive of an unsealed and ongoing LEAK.

IMHO, of course
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:23 AM   #19
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Ok I worked on the camper some this weekend and figured out some stuff. First it is aluminum frame construction! So not worries on wall studs rotting out. Second the ceiling is made up of two pieces of paneling glued together with 1 inch if Styrofoam in between. I put a sprinkler on the roof and let it run all day saturday with the bunks let out on both sides. I ripped out all the ceiling paneling and both front walls paneling. I wanted to make sure I got all the leaks fixed. The roof is not leaking from any of the vents. It still appears to be leaking from either the front seam above the side window or at the side window as I am getting a small leak running down the wall at the window. Also I found two drips on the tent ends at the bottom of each corner. It appears to be running down the inside of the weatherstripping but when I look on the outside I think it is entering and the top seam behind the metal frame and just leaking out at the bottom of the tent on each side. I took a lot of pics but cant figure out how to get them off my Iphone. Will post them later today. One question in the meantime... can I re-glue paneling to the Styrofoam that got wet? is appears to be dry and mold free just not sure if new paneling will stick to it since it got wet? If so what type of glue should I use.

Thanks again for all your comments they have helped me a bunch!
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:05 AM   #20
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Better in my mind to discard the old Styrofoam- you really don't want to mess with the possibility of toxic mold. Having said that, however, if its dry it will probably glue up adequately.

But in any case, you must make sure you find an adhesive that is compatible with foam. Many will just dissolve it. Look for something like this
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:09 AM   #21
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Yes, the Styrofoam is completely dry and no mold. I am going to spray it down with some bleach to make sure.

I posted the image in the expandable section not sure how to get it in my message. I tried insert image but I don't think it will show up. I have been stripping the old sealant from all windows and wall/roof seams and redoing them but what should I do about this really stuck on metal tape the PO put on? See image at link below

fsubob2003 roof pic - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:05 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsubob2003 View Post


Yes, the Styrofoam is completely dry and no mold. I am going to spray it down with some bleach to make sure.

I posted the image in the expandable section not sure how to get it in my message. I tried insert image but I don't think it will show up. I have been stripping the old sealant from all windows and wall/roof seams and redoing them but what should I do about this really stuck on metal tape the PO put on? See image at link below

fsubob2003 roof pic - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery
As far as the metal tape; you could try heating up a section at a time with a hair dryer or a heat gun set on low and scrape the tape off with a wide blade scraper. Then you can try different solvents to see what might dissolve the adhesive.

Or, scrub the heck out of it so its absolutely clean and lay wide Eternabond tape over it (so that the Eternabond completely covers the old tape and extends one to two inches on either side). A single strip of Eternabond is best, but if one is too narrow, lay it on so the first strip is at the back and the last strip is at the front, overlapping at least one inch.

With Eternabond, the secret is: an absolutely clean surface, being careful to NOT stretch the tape during application and rolling it down VERY HARD to release the microcapsules

Images- the easiest way is to upload your pix to a free online photohosting site like Photobucket. Upload your pix, and under each new picture will be a set of URLS- copy the one that starts http//- this is your picture's address on the Web. When typing a new post here on IRV2, click the little "picture frame" icon above your text box (it has a little stylized mountain in a box) . It will ask you to paste the URL of your picture on Photobucket. Do so and your Photobucket picture will show up right where your cursor was blinking.
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:22 AM   #23
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"It rained at my house last night and there were not visible leaks so I think the roof is ok..."
Your roof is not okay. The rain is running inside your walls and rotting your trailer apart.
"I can see where the caulk has pulled off the trailer along on front"
Yes, it is leaking here.
"on the back of the roof where he appeared to have taped a joint on where the side wall meets roof and the tape is coming up a little"
Yes, it is leaking here.

PLEASE- before you start doing cosmetic work on the walls and ceiling- fix the roof! ANYPLACE and all places where even one drop of water can get through must be fixed. If you don't fix the roof, any work you put into the interior will be wasted, as it too will rot .

Do not use silicone. Repeat. Do not use silicone.

If the roof itself is rotten, you can pull it up and replace it with a marine-grade plywood. Plastic panels will NOT work as a replacement roof (or did you mean ceiling?). You can either re-fiberglass the new roof or apply a new DIY rubber membrane roof. From your description, of "roof paper" (there is no roof paper on an RV- only fiberglass, aluminum or rubber membrane) it sounds like you have a rubber membrane roof.** on edit- the previous poster gives you an excellent description of how he repaired his rubber membrane roof.

You will need to get many more tubes of Dicor or C-10 self-leveling sealant and a roll of Eternabond tape.

You need to remove ALL old loose cracking caulk, clean the areas and re-apply with Dicor. Check screws- some will be stripped and must be removed and the holes filled with Dicor. If you have long trim pieces, like at the edge where roof meets sides, you can remove the trim, apply butyl caulk tape and reapply the trim with new screws.

Any seams must be cleaned carefully and Eternabond tape applied and rolled down hard with a wooden or metal roller. Do the same around vents if they are iffy.

Applying gobs of caulk on top of old caulk will not solve your leaks, which are clearly major and of many years duration.

Please don't rely on wishful thinking. You have a dishonest seller and a severely damaged trailer.

Regarding the interior work- to be honest, I would not start messing with it if you only have a grand to spend. If its useable, then just use it.

But, if you want, you can just start ripping stuff out. It doesn't really matter what you use to replace wall or ceiling material with. They have virtually nothing to add structurally to the trailer. Buy light, thin materials that you can afford and you can work with. Do what your skill level can manage.

I think you are looking at an expensive, major project. If you can source a lot of material cheap or free, and you have plenty of free time, you might keep it under your budget.

I myself would take the seller to small claims court, but I wish you the best of luck.
what is wrong with using exterior silicone on outside seams?
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:15 AM   #24
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Thanks Senior Chief I will order some of that tape now... the local camping world had something similar but it was not called eternabond so I did not get it. If anyone has a site they would like to recommend me ordering it from please share! :O) if not I will just look it up on ebay or amazon...
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:30 AM   #25
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OK every joint and seam has been resealed. I ordered 50 feet of 6 inch permabond tape and roller for the roof. Once that comes in I will strip off all that foil looking take on the roof and redo it. Then I will be back to reassembly.

I think I am going to take out the front dinette to make it easier to run full sheets of paneling in the front. The ? I have now is should I leave the window in when I do the paneling or take it out?

I should have thought of this before I resealed them all. I see screws around the entire perimeter so I assume I can take those out and the interior ring will come off? I would like to run the paneling behind the trim ring for a cleaner look.

The refrigerator guy is coming out today to see if he can fix the fridge. It will not come on at all. If he cannot fix it at a reasonable price I am going to pull it out and just buy a small dorm style fridge to replace it.

Also, since I have had leaks what should I do for the stall smell? Its not bad like a musky smell or anything its just a little stall smelling. I was thinking of spraying everything down with diluted vinegar and letting it air out for a few days. I was also going to get some damp rid to suck all the moisture that may be left out of the air.

Also, where to get decent tires? I put two el cheapos on there when I bought it but I would like to get two more nicer tires since its a dual axle to replace the two older ones and even a spare tire and rim. Discount Tire only has Carlisle radial tires for $70 a piece. The size is odd 175/80/13 and I am having trouble finding them locally. They have new white rims for $35 each. I can get a Rim and tire from Wal-mart for $95 but it is a galvanized rim. FYI I am not ever going to travel with full water tanks so the weight should not be too bad...

Thanks for all your responses! I hope to take her out on the first trip in a couple weeks!
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:35 AM   #26
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Quote:
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what is wrong with using exterior silicone on outside seams?
If you are using silicone, interior or exterior type for strictly decorative purposes, no problem. If you actually want it to seal out water....

Three words.

It
Will
Fail
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:45 AM   #27
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OK every joint and seam has been resealed. I ordered 50 feet of 6 inch permabond tape and roller for the roof. Once that comes in I will strip off all that foil looking take on the roof and redo it. Then I will be back to reassembly.

I think I am going to take out the front dinette to make it easier to run full sheets of paneling in the front. The ? I have now is should I leave the window in when I do the paneling or take it out?

I should have thought of this before I resealed them all. I see screws around the entire perimeter so I assume I can take those out and the interior ring will come off? I would like to run the paneling behind the trim ring for a cleaner look.

The refrigerator guy is coming out today to see if he can fix the fridge. It will not come on at all. If he cannot fix it at a reasonable price I am going to pull it out and just buy a small dorm style fridge to replace it.

Also, since I have had leaks what should I do for the stall smell? Its not bad like a musky smell or anything its just a little stall smelling. I was thinking of spraying everything down with diluted vinegar and letting it air out for a few days. I was also going to get some damp rid to suck all the moisture that may be left out of the air.

Also, where to get decent tires? I put two el cheapos on there when I bought it but I would like to get two more nicer tires since its a dual axle to replace the two older ones and even a spare tire and rim. Discount Tire only has Carlisle radial tires for $70 a piece. The size is odd 175/80/13 and I am having trouble finding them locally. They have new white rims for $35 each. I can get a Rim and tire from Wal-mart for $95 but it is a galvanized rim. FYI I am not ever going to travel with full water tanks so the weight should not be too bad...

Thanks for all your responses! I hope to take her out on the first trip in a couple weeks!
I would go ahead and take the window out- its easy. Here's a good video on how to.

Musty smells- wipe down every surface you can reach, including the insides of closets, cupboards and drawers with vinegar/water or a very dilute bleach solution.

Shampoo carpets and spray any other soft surfaces with your choice of odor-remover, and let sunshine and fresh air do the rest.

If you have a portable black-light, you can turn out the lights and check for rodent or pet urine stains (they glow).

If you can't find tires locally, you can order them through Tire Rack.com. They'll be shipped to you and you can have them installed at your nearest tire shop. The prices are pretty good, even with shipping.


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Old 03-26-2012, 07:31 AM   #28
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Thanks, I found some tires and rims locally so I now have 2 spares as well.

I began tearing out the dinette this weekend to make it easier to put up the wall panels and found more wood rot. Sooo... I completely gutted the front half of the camper. took out dinette, water heater furnace etc. The hardest part was removing the floor. The floor was glued down to insulation board just like the ceiling... It took forever to get it all up and clean. I then sprayed lysol disinfectant spray on everything several times with a bug sprayer and let it air out. I found some ants in the floor and took care of those as well. I laid down one sheet of flooring and used 1/2 ply I also had to replace the wood floor joist? I am not sure about the way they have these floors they seem very flimsy. I guess they did what they could to make it "ultra lite" I hope to lay down another sheet today and begin on wall panels by the weekend. It will definitely be a lot nicer and sturdier when I get through with it. It might be a hundred or so pounds heavier as well.
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