what trailer is better

[gman1970]

I would really like some input into what trailer is a better quality unit. I am looking at the Passport Ultra Lite 290BH by Keystone and the Jay Feather LGT 30U by Jayco.

Thanks for the help.
Geoff.

[gman1970]

I would really like some input into what trailer is a better quality unit. I am looking at the Passport Ultra Lite 290BH by Keystone and the Jay Feather LGT 30U by Jayco.

Thanks for the help.
Geoff.

[K-Star]

Geoff;

First, welcome to iRV2.com. I am sure you will find a lot of helpful information here. Please keep in touch and let us know how you make out with your purchase and your resulting camping experiences.

What type of camping are you planning? Few weekend get-aways? A week here and there? A month or more at a time? Future Fulltime? Type of tow vehicle (TV) you will be using will also be helpful.

Manufacturers build multiple units each being applicable to certain types of usage.

[Beckie]

We are also looking at TT. Wanting to get back into camping, it has been a while since the kids have been out of the house. We have a have a ford 150 8 cyl 4.3 on the door it has GVWR 6050#. So we need to stay under that for a TT? The one we like is 6500#, which we would have trouble pulling? We have been reading everything we can. But we do not want to have to get a new truck, we want to be able to use ours and have something we have not problem with. Any help would be GREAT. Thanks

[K-Star]

Beckie

First welcome to iRV2.com. You are about to jump into a very interesting conversation. There are many opinions about weights. I am of the mindset that one should tow within the vehicle's limits. Is is much safer that way.

There are a few terms to get familiar with for your tow vehicle.

GVWR is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating which is the maximum amount your truck can handle as a load. GVWR is the weight of the truck (full fuel tank) + occupants + all of your camping gear + trailer hitch weight. This combination should not exceed the 6050# you stated. Now hitch weight is not the trailer weight but rather the amount of weight that the trailer's hitch is adding to the truck. Generally that is around 15% of the overall trailer weight.

GCWR is the Gross Combined Weight Rating. That should also be on the sticker or in the owners manual. This is the total weight of the truck fueled up and loaded ready to go camping + the total weight of the trailer loaded and ready to go. I always use the GVWR of the trailer for this calculation. This calculation should not exceed the GCWR of your truck.

As far as the trailer, the only number I trust in sales literature is the GVWR of the trailer. This is the weight of the trailer loaded and ready to go. Including any liquids you plan to carry (ie: propane, fresh water, etc). You will also see a UVW which is Unloaded Vehicle Weight. This is the trailers weight with only the standard equipment. Options are not included in this number. The reason I use the trailer's GVWR is that unfortunately you won't get the actual trailer weight until it is delivered to the dealer by the manufacturer.

Hitch weight (pin weight for a 5er) is another term you will see. Again sales literature bases this number on a trailer with standard equipment. Options are not included. The actual hitch weight will be about 15% of the actual trailer weight loaded up and ready to go.

Keep reading thru the forums. You will see a lot of discussion on this topic. A few of our members have link in the signatures that go into the nth detail on this topic.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

[go44]

Hi gman1970
You have seen a few replies on weight..Here is another topic..

I have had a couple of light weight TT...I would suggest you choose a TT with a rounded roof , meaning higher in the center than the outside edges...Water tends to puddle in low spots on flat roofs which can be a problem..

Make sure the floor is constructed strong enough to support everyone...My 2000 Trai Lite had weak floors and a flat roof ( leaked) , not good...

If you buy used , ensure the TT has not been damaged by a leaking roof , windows etc..

Just a couple of pointers

[Randy the sly old fox]

Jeff - both of these mfgs have good records - however it is possible to get a lemon even from a good mfg. As long as the floorplan works for you and your TV can handle it there are onl a few more things to consider. Having dealt with an IN mfg from OR after my dealer stopped handling the brand - I decided to find a mfg closer to home - ie the pacific northwest. That way if I had problems that required factory attention it would be a reasonable trip. Several IN based Mfgs have plants in the NW so I did include them in my search. I also looked at dealers. My favorite dealer seems to switch brands often - but has stuck with Thor and Fleetwood products, another local dealer has handled only Keystone and Jayco. I finally opted for an Arctic Fox - made in Oregon and had a dealer about an hour away from me. After three years of use the TT has seen the dealer only once and has only been to the factory for an owner's rally. I also made a point to either buy off the lot - so I could inspect the unit for problems myself - or have a right of refusal clause put into the purchase agreement of a special order unit (another story of learing from mistakes).

Barbie: consider making a seperate post so you don't get lost in this thread. Your F150 has a small block V8 that might be good for towing a lightweight TT or a pop up. 6500 lbs is getting into F250 territory. This is for comfortable towing. If you want to do 25MPH on hills and maybe reach 65 with a tail wind then it will handle a 6500lb TT. I use a 2500HD to tow my 24' 5600 lb TT.

[Link]

The very best unbiased information on Rv's will come from the RV Consumer Group.
http://www.rv.org

This is a nonprofit membership organization .
They are not aligned or affiliated with the RV industry. They give value ratings, durability ratings and highway safety ratings... plus star awards and important specifications in easy to read format.

The RVCG information saved us from making a BIG mistake.

WE recomend the RVCG very highly.

[woodburner]

If you really want to know about any brand you're thinking of purchasing: Try going to a forum of owners who are experiencing first hand the ins/ and outs of the brand you are considering.
For the Passport; Check out Keystone RV Camping Group.
I guarantee you will get the lowdown on that brand which should help you with your decision.

[Link]

woodburner forgot to tell you that Keystone is in trouble--They are laying of almost 300 workers.

Next step?? Are they about to close the doors??

[woodburner]

I don't think Keystone is in trouble yet; they still have 2600 people on the payroll and keep in mind they are part of a MUCH bigger conglomerate; THOR. Which I'm fairly confident will do its best to keep them afloat as long as possible being they sell more RV's then anyone else in the business.
Going down there next week for a rally and I sure hope to learn more. I'd hate owning an orphan.

[Tugboat]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Jay Feather </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
My wife have the Jayco Jay Feather LGT 31E we got it new 4/15/08 have used it all summer and very happy with the unit. I tow it with a 2005 F150 super crew 4X2 and have had no problem. We would only look at units that had a GVW rating under what my truck could tow.

[Randy the sly old fox]

From what I understand, Thor Industries provides car load buying power when it comes to the parts and pieces that make up an RV - stoves, refers, axles, windows etc. They in turn pass these savings on to the independent brands under the Thor umbrella. Each brand of RV is its own unique profit and loss center. The buying power of Thor simply gives them an edge.

Fleetwood, on the other hand, owns and operates all the plants and provides a central design center for all brands. Also several brands might be built in the same plant.