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Old 07-26-2005, 07:44 PM   #1
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Hey Everyone:

Just finished doing my first mod to my 2005 F350 KR, and boy- was that easy- 10 minute job and hardly no effort required...it's what they call the New Stationary Elevated Idle Control for 2005 Model Year Light Trucks. Basically, it's a mod that will allow you, upon certain circumstances, get a 1200rpm stationary idle for options such as PTO applications, or for any time where you will be idling for more than 5-10 minutes and need a higher idle. Not to get too in-depth here, but the 6.0's have a tendency to "wet-stack", which means on a persistent idle, the un-burned fuel in the cylinder has a tendency to pass the rings and into the oil resevoir, therefore "making oil". This simple mod will eliminate that condition if used. For practical purposes, if you are idling for an extended period of time, it will also allow better cooling circulation (both engine and A/C, if used). For this simple hookup, you will need a 2005 truck that has Outfitter Switches, but it can also be accomplished by fitting in a standard switch, but this will not detail what you need to use a standard switch- only the Outfitter Switches.

I 'borrowed' a post from TDS that even makes this alot easier...thanks to 6Robert2, who I believe actually borrowed it from another post.

<span class="ev_code_BLUE">You will need the following:

1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions

Optional:

1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear


Directions:

Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:

Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]

Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends)

Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.

Testing

All the following are required to enable high idle:

Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed


Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.

Happy Hi-Idling!

</span>

Obviously, you are at your own risk in trying this out- I do have to stress that when he says 'make sure you ge tthe solid orange wire", that's a tad difficult to find it, but then my eyes just ain't the shape they were in 20 years ago...so there!!

Sean
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Old 07-26-2005, 07:44 PM   #2
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Posts: 3,479
Hey Everyone:

Just finished doing my first mod to my 2005 F350 KR, and boy- was that easy- 10 minute job and hardly no effort required...it's what they call the New Stationary Elevated Idle Control for 2005 Model Year Light Trucks. Basically, it's a mod that will allow you, upon certain circumstances, get a 1200rpm stationary idle for options such as PTO applications, or for any time where you will be idling for more than 5-10 minutes and need a higher idle. Not to get too in-depth here, but the 6.0's have a tendency to "wet-stack", which means on a persistent idle, the un-burned fuel in the cylinder has a tendency to pass the rings and into the oil resevoir, therefore "making oil". This simple mod will eliminate that condition if used. For practical purposes, if you are idling for an extended period of time, it will also allow better cooling circulation (both engine and A/C, if used). For this simple hookup, you will need a 2005 truck that has Outfitter Switches, but it can also be accomplished by fitting in a standard switch, but this will not detail what you need to use a standard switch- only the Outfitter Switches.

I 'borrowed' a post from TDS that even makes this alot easier...thanks to 6Robert2, who I believe actually borrowed it from another post.

<span class="ev_code_BLUE">You will need the following:

1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions

Optional:

1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear


Directions:

Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:

Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]

Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends)

Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.

Testing

All the following are required to enable high idle:

Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed


Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.

Happy Hi-Idling!

</span>

Obviously, you are at your own risk in trying this out- I do have to stress that when he says 'make sure you ge tthe solid orange wire", that's a tad difficult to find it, but then my eyes just ain't the shape they were in 20 years ago...so there!!

Sean
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:04 PM   #3
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Sean, that is great!
I have always worried about wet-stacking my F350 when i have let it idle for more then 5 or 10 minutes at the stock idle.
I am going to reread that entire post and print it out.
That is really good stuff.

By the way, do you have the PTO option??
With or without, that low RPM idle aint good.
thanks for a good TRUCK idea,
Mike
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:10 PM   #4
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FD:

No...no PTO, but as I explained to Moski, she can go to the grocery store on a HOT day, lock the truck using the keyless entry pad, go in and do her shopping, and come out to a "cold" truck. That may be a bad example (as one of the guys over 'there' said, "idle STILL gives you 0 mpg", but I can see where if you're parked, there might be a real good chance you'll use it. Gosh...for $0.01 worth of wire and a couple of buttt-connectors, why not? Clark's gonna love it- I suspect all the ambulances he's used over the years have had to have someone do this mod for them- now he can do it in 10 minutes himself.

And I know you were just worried as heck about 'wet-stacking' your F350....

I hope I didn't break any I-NET rules by copying those guys' posts, but I felt it was a good one. Hope it helps!

Sean
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:13 PM   #5
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Yea, i'll never need the PTO,...
... but that low idle for extended time has been a little worry of mine for years. It is not optimum for our trucks. (And i don't care how many UPS trucks are left running all day long, I still think their idle is turned up.)
Good report Sean, that was quite a write up.
That one is a Read-Worthy! I will be re-reading and printing
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:31 PM   #6
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Sean,
Our new Rescues have this option on them. They rev up to keep the alternator charging to power the light bars. The older trucks had a small box unit with a digital readout that told you the amps and rmp. The new ones don't. I will do this mod this weekend.

I got my front windows tinted today like on old red, looks much better. Now I have to figure out where to mount my flashlight and such.

Got the truck financed today at the CU. It cost me $80.00 to get into this new truck, and my payment are lower than the old one. What a deal!!!

Thanks for the tip!!!

Clark
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:40 PM   #7
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Clark:

I suspected they did...all Ford's done is make this an easy fix for the DIY...took a whole bunch of mod shops outta the picture!

I think there's something to this...Ford has such the market that they actually thought about this for the SPEC buyers...something that the "City Yard" can have done without ordering it special.

The 'alts' are another reason!!

Sean
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