34CKNext Level with '05 Dodge 2500 4x4 SB CTD, ok ???

[twvette]

Hello all again ...

My deal on a used WW LE 35 fell threw (or should I say seller "disapeared on me")

So, trying to make my decision on which TH to order new. We are in love with a Holiday Rambler Next Level 34CK (a.k.a Mckenzie Dune Chaser). Wife loves the interior (can you say leather) and I love the structure (full aluminum framing and especially the smooth aluminum exterior). Cost is the same as a WW 35LE with same options suprisingly.

The Next Level TH on paper is one of the heaviest in its ~34ft size. It list dry as 10,040# in the brochure and the one we looked at had 11,700# on the sticker (which claims to include full 130g water, 60g fuel, lp gas, and "most but not all options"). I am going to assume the most but not all includes the generator, a/c, and perhaps a couple other "standard" items. It also has one of the heaviest pin weights of 2,400#.

Make note the NL mentioned above included a front bedroom slide out and fiberglass exterior ... both of which I would not order and should definetly save some weight but I have no clue how much ... nor do I knwo if its included in the sticker weight.

To make long story short, by the time I load up I am going to be about 2,000# over combined weight rating and about 1,000# over on carrying capacity weight of my truck.

The interesting side to all this is most seem to think I would be ok with a WW 35LE but not with the Next Level (other forums). I am wondering if this is more "sticker shock" than reality. I say this as many then also told me that WW is way low on their dry numbers and/or not including the main options, etc. (i.e. generator, fluids, etc.). So there is a good chance the WW 35LE and the NL 34CK weight very close to the same in reality.

The other interesting point is it doesnt matter which 5er TH I get (unless maybe a WW super lite,) I am going to be over the truck load capacity regardless ... it is just a matter of "by how much".

I have decided its going to be one way or the other. I will order a WW 31LE to make sure I am as close as reasonably possible to be within my truck rating but will possibly still be a tad over or I am going to get the Next Level and slow down even more/accept some additional "risk".

MY HEAD HURTS ... what do I do ... will never know until I have already bought it put it on a scale.

[twvette]

Hello all again ...

My deal on a used WW LE 35 fell threw (or should I say seller "disapeared on me")

So, trying to make my decision on which TH to order new. We are in love with a Holiday Rambler Next Level 34CK (a.k.a Mckenzie Dune Chaser). Wife loves the interior (can you say leather) and I love the structure (full aluminum framing and especially the smooth aluminum exterior). Cost is the same as a WW 35LE with same options suprisingly.

The Next Level TH on paper is one of the heaviest in its ~34ft size. It list dry as 10,040# in the brochure and the one we looked at had 11,700# on the sticker (which claims to include full 130g water, 60g fuel, lp gas, and "most but not all options"). I am going to assume the most but not all includes the generator, a/c, and perhaps a couple other "standard" items. It also has one of the heaviest pin weights of 2,400#.

Make note the NL mentioned above included a front bedroom slide out and fiberglass exterior ... both of which I would not order and should definetly save some weight but I have no clue how much ... nor do I knwo if its included in the sticker weight.

To make long story short, by the time I load up I am going to be about 2,000# over combined weight rating and about 1,000# over on carrying capacity weight of my truck.

The interesting side to all this is most seem to think I would be ok with a WW 35LE but not with the Next Level (other forums). I am wondering if this is more "sticker shock" than reality. I say this as many then also told me that WW is way low on their dry numbers and/or not including the main options, etc. (i.e. generator, fluids, etc.). So there is a good chance the WW 35LE and the NL 34CK weight very close to the same in reality.

The other interesting point is it doesnt matter which 5er TH I get (unless maybe a WW super lite,) I am going to be over the truck load capacity regardless ... it is just a matter of "by how much".

I have decided its going to be one way or the other. I will order a WW 31LE to make sure I am as close as reasonably possible to be within my truck rating but will possibly still be a tad over or I am going to get the Next Level and slow down even more/accept some additional "risk".

MY HEAD HURTS ... what do I do ... will never know until I have already bought it put it on a scale.

[RRC/AMC]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by twvette:
will never know until I have already bought it put it on a scale. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> You will no if you buy a Rampage or one of it's clone's, the Freestyle and the Trailrider made by Skyline RV because they weigh all of there units indiviually and then post the stickers! When on there sight be sure and look at the Virtual tour of the factory, alot of good info. FYI I saw a 2500 Duramax pulling a pretty big HR today, don't no the exact size but it had a BR slide. I know he was overweight but then again, who isn't?

[C.CARNEY]

Guys,

I believe that if you buy a big trailer, you need a big truck. That's one reason I upgraded recently to a new F350. My old one was rated at 20,000 lbs CGVW, this one is 26,000 lbs. I was 2000 lbs over on the old truck, just didn't want to be illegal. A diesel powered truck, 3/4 or 1 ton will pull just about anything. BUT, you also have to be stable and you have to stop. Yes, all the trailers have four wheel brakes and with a good brake controller, you can stop them. But, you will get into a situation where the truck just isn't enough. They put ratings on trucks, and yes most people don't follow them. I did a trip to Lincoln, NE at the beginning of last month from So Cal to Missoula, MT to Lincoln. I saw ALOT of truck/ 5er combos and MANY were over weight. Way to big of a trailer on a 3/4 ton truck. If you decide to run that combo, it's your gamble. You might not ever have a problem, but it only takes one time. Is your family worth the gamble?

twvette, I have a friend who has a NL just like the one your talking about. He pulls it with a Dodge 3500 DRW CC diesel 4 x 4. He pulls it fine, but has said numerous times about it's weight, he can really feel the heavy trailer behind him. Even one tons have a limit, and some of the big 5er toyboxes push those limits.

This is just my opinion, I really believe in a big truck for a big trailer. Good luck in your decision.

Clark

[lincster]

I don't think you will be fine with either trailer. Both are very heavy and will make you go over your tow ratings of your truck.
You need at least a 1 ton for either trailer, the Ford Tow Boss package would be the best. 26,000lbs GCWR and 13,000lbs GVWR.

[diirk]

Most of the time I think that a 1-ton is needed for a 5'er. If for no other reason than to just be legal. But they do have the higher capacity and overloads to handle the pin weight. If you do decide to go after the 5'er with your truck, airbags are a "must have". They'll make a huge difference for you.

[TXiceman]

I can ot suggest that you knowingly run that much over your truck rating. Air bags are just a crutch and you are still over loaded.

My suggestion is a smaller trailer or a larger truck.

Ken

[twvette]

The thing thats bugging me is that so far is per m y research so far on several forums the only difference between a '05 Dodge 2500 and 3500 srw is a helper/overload spring. The axles are rated the same, frame is the same, etc., etc. One person thought there might be diff. change but that is unconfirmed so far.

I know everyone thinks a 3/4 ton will always be a 3/4 ton but to me its looking like its actually a 1 ton with a minor spring upgrade missing.

If there were obvious differences I would bite the bullet and sell my two month old 2500 and get a 3500.

In other words, to go from my 20,000# rating to 21,000 all I probably need is the helper spring, and then to go 23,000# just replace with 4.10 gears ... atleast this is the way it appears based off Dodge ratings site and I think there is some marketing going on to differentiate between 2500 and 3500 rathe rthan true differences.

Of coarse I agree a long bed and drw would help but i also want to be able to drive this truck as a daily driver.

[diirk]

Those are exactly the differences, oh, and the sticker on the door that will CYA if for some reason you get pulled over or are in an accident. Physically, yes you could pull the trailer. Legally...nope! These same differences apply to all the other 3/4 ton-1 ton trucks, with the exception of the 05 Ford F350 with TowBoss pkg.

[WWFan]

twvette:

I've got to go with the crowd here...3/4 tons are just not enough for anything large enough for TH use- that's why we upgraded to the F350- not only do you get the added capacity, but with a DRW the ride is just so much more pleasant- especially with the TH sittin' on it. Here in California, the big advantage for going 3/4 ton was that it was under 10k, so there wasn't any additional weight fees, and a bunch more than what you could do with a 1/2 ton.

And believe you me...we've hashed this out more ways to Sunday than you could shake a stick at!