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Old 10-17-2010, 09:19 PM   #15
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You can find all the info you need for the Dodge pickups and chassis cabs HERE. Just drill down to your year, cab configuration, etc. and select the GVWR/GCWR/Payload/Trailer Tow options from the Technical Information heading on the right side of the screen. Be sure you are looking at your model, wheelbase, powertrain, axle ratio, etc.

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Old 10-18-2010, 12:25 AM   #16
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Just kidding about the bicycle.



Thanks for the link.
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19gc45 View Post
Further to last post.
I'm getting a little frustrated trying to sort out towing capacities. If I thought I could tow a heavy rig like the Alfa with a Dodge 4500 or Ford F-450 I'd settle, but the more I read the more it seems like I might need a MDT. Either that or go looking for one of the others with the exact combination of specs required. Could be a long process with a used vehicle. How do I say help without sounding needy?
The F450 is rated to tow a 24,000 lb. fifth wheel trailer. More than enough for campers.
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:29 AM   #18
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I guess I haven't sorted out tow ratings yet. F450 what engine?
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:59 PM   #19
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heres one thats close

11 Cherokee 295WP toy hauler fifth wheel 5th wheel rv : eBay Motors (item 270652611340 end time Oct-28-10 11:30:41 PDT)
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:54 PM   #20
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The framework being made of aluminum or wood makes little difference actually. Aluminum may be a bit lighter weight than a sturdy wood frame, but water intrusion makes little distinction. Yesterday I watched the Thor factory repair shop rebuilding a toy hauler ruined by water intrusion. They had already replaced the curb-side side-wall (except aluminum frame-work of course) and were working on the driver-side side-wall replacement. All aluminum frame-work RV's must have some wood incorporated to have something to fasten some things to, so wood is not entirely eliminated in the side/end framing. The high-end wood-framed RV's are heavier, but wood is not the entire cause; insulation, better windows, and other items add to it's UVW just as much.

Whichever you buy, the key to keeping it sound and solid is regular maintenance and inspection for deteriorating caulking/sealants.
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Old 10-29-2010, 01:35 PM   #21
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I would be hesitant in shopping for the cheapest toyhaulers. The anticipated stress they can see from offroads or heavy loads can add up. I've bought three new ones and bought sturdier each time.

If I was after a compromise situation which included taking along a big bike, I would now personally go with a F450/slide-in camper and get a 10' flatbed trailer for the haul. In fact that package just down right appeals to me anyway!

(and thanks moderator Dirk for your quick and helpful reply to my email for help this morn !)

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Old 10-29-2010, 02:07 PM   #22
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I would be hesitant in shopping for the cheapest toyhaulers. The anticipated stress they can see from offroads or heavy loads can add up. I've bought three new ones and bought sturdier each time.

If I was after a compromise situation which included taking along a big bike, I would now personally go with a F450/slide-in camper and get a 10' flatbed trailer for the haul. In fact that package just down right appeals to me anyway!

(and thanks moderator Dirk for your quick and helpful reply to my email for help this morn !)

Mike
Thanks.
I've abandoned the whole toy hauler idea for a number of reasons, primarily the loss of comfortable living space. I'm looking at full-timing for 2-3 years, so a truck camper doesn't really appeal although I did consider it. I've pretty much decided on a standard 5th wheel with a Hydralift carrier. A top end older fiver is within my budget limits.
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