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Old 08-05-2005, 08:48 PM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Rod Out </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Does that mean you're going to bed, or are you in checking mode?

Nighty night!
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Old 08-05-2005, 08:54 PM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by WWFan:
[QUOTE]Rod Out </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Just trying to stay Hip

Rod
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Old 08-06-2005, 08:27 PM   #17
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OK Turkeys, Here's the deal. If you have a Suburan hot water heater instead of an atwood, you need to check the anode rod. Every year you need to change it, just to keep the corrosion down in the tank. I have gone two yrs on mine. Yours are on your own.
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Old 08-06-2005, 09:01 PM   #18
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Okie Dokie Turkeyette!

I take it you've got a Suburban and got lucky with 2 years? Or do you have an Atwood? And what is the difference between them?

And have I read somewhere that there is something you can do to decrease the damage made to the anode rod?
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Old 08-06-2005, 09:36 PM   #19
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OK, here's what I do. I drain and flush the tank every yr and then flush and replace the anode rod every two yrs. Thats for a Suburban style heater. Not the atwood heater.
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Old 08-06-2005, 09:59 PM   #20
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Geez...are you gonna make me drag it outta ya?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> And what is the difference between them? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

And do you have pics...us mentally challenged folks are resorting to using pics to describe our endeavors!!!
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:07 PM   #21
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Nope, you just have to figure it out! No pictures!
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:12 PM   #22
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Senoir Tomas:

Now is that any way to talk to a fellow member?

Don't make me hit that "Notify Mod" button!
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:23 PM   #23
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darn, where is that button at! Don't worry, I'll find it.
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:28 PM   #24
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It's the button that the Tool Tip says "Kick Tom for me, OK?"
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Old 08-07-2005, 03:38 PM   #25
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Whoa, I must have pa....eh, fallen asleep before that last post, otherwise I'd have said something.

You know Sean, I can't tell you how to tell the difference between them for sure. I do know the Atwood has a plastic plug in the lower center and the Suburban has a large metal plug. When you remove the large metal plug the anode rod is attached to it. Takes a large socket to remove it, don't remember the size. They say that if you drain the water tank after every trip the rod will last longer.
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:54 PM   #26
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Sorry I could not post earlier. But I think we need a little water heater 101 class. Here is what I know. First, the difference between an Atwood or Surburban is about the same as choosing between a GM or Ford. There are folks on both sides. And as far as the rv manufactures go, well, they install whichever is the best buy at the time they need them. The main difference between the two is that the Atwood tank is aluminun clad and the Surburban is a steel ceramic clad tank. Atwood says that their heater does not need an anode rod since the aluminum does not react to the water minerals, or to only a small degree. Personally, if I had an Atwood heater I would remove the plastic drain plug and replace it with an anode rod. Rv stores have them just for that purpose. The Surburban drain plug incorporates an anode rod. If the rod I removed is any indication I would reccomend inspecting it every 6 months. It is a 1-1/16" nut. The heater water should of course be cool and power off. Open a hot water faucet to relieve pressure,also flip the pressure relief valve up to open. If the threads on the nut are corroded spray with liquid wrench or wd-40 and let sit overnight. Remove the anode rod and watch all the gunk come out. You can put the rod back in and flush again a few times or, as I would suggest, get a 'water heater clean out wand'. It is simply an 1/8' copper tube with a hose fitting. Stick that in the drain and you will be amazed at the sand that comes out. Finally, buy an inline hose filter to reduce the minerals entering the water system. You'll be a happy camper with a water heater that will still be working when you sell the rig. Ring,ring,ring! Recess. Happy Trails.
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Old 08-08-2005, 06:36 AM   #27
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Thanks for the class Hoverbug. I knew that, just couldn't remember all the details. Too many brain cells gone!

At any rate, Atwood tanks will go away, I promise. Had one eat through the tank and pumped 40 gal of water inside a MH. Opened the door and it looked like a waterfall running down the steps.

The only complaint I have with the Suburban is no way to regulate the temp, and the darn thing isn't hot enough for my tastes. My Atwood would burn you up but the Sub is just semi-hot. Makes 6 gal go faster which equates to faster showers.
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Old 08-08-2005, 08:20 AM   #28
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Yeah Tom,it's called progress,I guess. The Kencraft has a Surburban, but that vintage has a temp selector.
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