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Old 11-25-2006, 08:08 PM   #1
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LP full,12 & 110 ok & I get nothing but the light on, but flashing off 5 times about every 3 seconds. Book says the cooling unit has stopped working. Any tips I can try myself before its off to the dealer ? Thanks in advance--Proflow
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Old 11-25-2006, 08:08 PM   #2
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LP full,12 & 110 ok & I get nothing but the light on, but flashing off 5 times about every 3 seconds. Book says the cooling unit has stopped working. Any tips I can try myself before its off to the dealer ? Thanks in advance--Proflow
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Old 11-25-2006, 09:42 PM   #3
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Mine will flash if the propane has been off. I have to turn the fridge off then back on to let it purge and try to light again. Sometimes I have to do that 3 or 4 times. I hope this helps.
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Old 11-25-2006, 09:55 PM   #4
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This ones weird, it was working fine for hours & then went haywire.
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Old 11-26-2006, 03:05 AM   #5
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Proflow, can you give us a litle more info and first are you level? Are you able to electrically troubleshoot circuits? Is there any heat in the outside section of the cooling unit? If so can you asertain if the boiler or absorber is the hotter? There are service manuals at www.bryantrv.com you can download that might help. Let us know and we will try to help.
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Old 11-26-2006, 05:50 AM   #6
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If you feel comfortable with 120 volt power, you can disconnect the electric heater. First shut down the power at the power switch and unplug the RV.

Once the heater is disconnected use a power cord and connect it directly to the heater. Be sure to tape the wires before you plug it into a 120 volt plug. This Is refered to as "bypass mode".

If you have a V-O-M (volt ohm meter), check the heater for continuity and for open circuit or grounded to the case of the heater.

If the heater checks OK, and after several hours (about 6), the refig is cool, your cooling unit is working and you probably have a control board problem.

First be sure you are relatively level.

Ken
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Old 11-26-2006, 07:21 AM   #7
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Yep shes level. I can troubleshoot circuits w/a meter. I'll download that info to look at too so I have an idea of whos who in the zoo. Thanks---Proflow
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Old 11-26-2006, 09:23 AM   #8
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OK, I went to that site & they dont list the N811RT . But I did check 12v & 110 power & its good. The fuses are good on the board also. I found that the furnace had been left on last parked so lp is dead now. However this problem started before lp was gone. I jumped the lp pressure switch with a fuse to see if 110 would do its thing, but still no luck. My book says cooling unit bad if blinking 5 times within 3 sec. I dunno.
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Old 11-26-2006, 09:40 AM   #9
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OK, another update. I just pulled the heater wires from the board & checked them. I have 44ohms between them & no fault to ground. One was connected to low & one to High. Should I Power these wires up ? Just jump both of them into a power cord ? Thanks--Proflow
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:18 PM   #10
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I finally found this----Cooling unit sensing:The controls have the ability to sense the operation of thecooling unit. If the controls sense that the cooling unit hasstopped cooling:- The heat sources to the cooling unit are turned off and arelocked out by the controls.- The ON light flashes about five times every three seconds.You can reset the controls and remove the fault code one time.To reset the controls, shut off and then start the refrigerator.- To turn off the refrigerator, push the selector switch to theOFF position.- To turn on the refrigerator, push the selector switch to theAUTO position.If you reset the controls and the fault occurs again before therefrigerator completes a full cooling cycle:- The heat sources to the cooling unit are turned off and arelocked out.- The ON light flashes about five times every three seconds.- This time you can not reset the fault. Have the refrigeratorserviced by your dealer or a Norcold authorized Service Center. ------This is crap. So if this thing can only be reset once then its dealer time, Im screwed when the warranty is up. Not like I feel like hauling & leaving my rig @ some smucks rv shop either. Norcold & dealers got something going here or what ? Costomer for life ? I think not , Ill rip that piece of crap out of there & burn it. Proflow
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Old 11-26-2006, 02:43 PM   #11
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By disconnecting the heater element leads from the control board and applying 120 volts directly to the heater, the unit will run full time until the power is shut down. Do not power to the board and shut off the unit at the control switch prior to powering the heater.

If it is the control board, have the dealer install an after market Dinosaur board. They do not have the poor failure rate of the OEM.


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Old 11-26-2006, 03:06 PM   #12
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Thanks all---Seems it'll have to go to the dealer regardless just to reset it anyway. I got 44ohms & no ground fault on that heating element. Do I still need to power it up ? If so I will. Is that Dinosaur board owner resetable ? I understand safety factors & what not but this is stupid. Ive owned & installed 4 fridges in prior coaches without any problems at all. Seems like a clean install. Everything is vented , clearenced correctly on this one too,etc etc.. I hate leaving my stuff in others hands if I can do myself, warranty or not. Know what I mean ? Is it just me ? Probably not. Im still on the search for the reset on the Norcold N81X. If anyone knows please advise, much appreciated---Proflow
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Old 11-26-2006, 03:43 PM   #13
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OK another update. I juiced up the heater like spoken about. Outside temp-40, Inside temp of rv-40, inside temp of fridge-40. Went back out & temped the heat tube-65. That was in just about 5 min. So I suspect its working as expected but will check inside fridge temp in a few hours. Thanks for your help--Proflow
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Old 11-26-2006, 05:52 PM   #14
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I know what you mean about not trusting the dealers. I prefer to have a pretty good idea of what is wrong when I take anything in for repair.

Ken
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