Community Forums

WWFan · 04-23-2006, 06:50 PM

Just a friendly public service reminder...and no- I don't have any gruesome pictures to show you WHY you should!

I've had un-greaseables where the equalizer a 2" vertical gap from all the action. I was so happy to find that WW finally spend the $50 and made all their axles regreaseable.

I didn't want to leave out the ungreaseable sorts from this PSA...if you're the owner of one of these, then certainly a mechanic is an easy (yet expensive) route, but if you've got some time, a jack and a crowbar, and energy, it's really worth your time to do it.

If you've got them, the grease zerks are prolly on the inside to keep rocks from clipping off the zerks from the tires. They're not easy to get to without alot of crawling (fortunately I've got concrete to do that- but forget the creeper- the axles are so low and my gut is so high that clearance becomes an issue

), but certainly worth it.

Of course, if you've got a merry mechanic that can do it for ya, good for you!!!

Oh...and don't forget to wipe the zerk off before blowing some grease in at 10,000psi. Not to mention that it's a good time to regrease the wheel bearings, adjust the brakes, and inpsect the tires also.

Sean

WWFan · 04-23-2006, 06:50 PM

Just a friendly public service reminder...and no- I don't have any gruesome pictures to show you WHY you should!

I've had un-greaseables where the equalizer a 2" vertical gap from all the action. I was so happy to find that WW finally spend the $50 and made all their axles regreaseable.

I didn't want to leave out the ungreaseable sorts from this PSA...if you're the owner of one of these, then certainly a mechanic is an easy (yet expensive) route, but if you've got some time, a jack and a crowbar, and energy, it's really worth your time to do it.

If you've got them, the grease zerks are prolly on the inside to keep rocks from clipping off the zerks from the tires. They're not easy to get to without alot of crawling (fortunately I've got concrete to do that- but forget the creeper- the axles are so low and my gut is so high that clearance becomes an issue

), but certainly worth it.

Of course, if you've got a merry mechanic that can do it for ya, good for you!!!

Oh...and don't forget to wipe the zerk off before blowing some grease in at 10,000psi. Not to mention that it's a good time to regrease the wheel bearings, adjust the brakes, and inpsect the tires also.

Sean

Vette Racer · 04-24-2006, 04:53 AM

Yo, I got a better deal! Place where I buy my tires will pack wheel bearings, check brakes and adjust, and check out/grease the suspension, all for 39 dollars an axle. Not worth it for me to mess with it for that, as long as they do a good job. I packed those suckers last time on the Warrior, took me all day, thats a lot of work!

WWFan · 04-24-2006, 05:13 AM

Whoa!! $39 an axle?! Now THAT'S a great deal- I'd do the same (like you said- as long as they do a good job).

This would be the time that you really do like that TWO axle Terry, huh?

lincster · 04-25-2006, 05:28 AM

I went to grease my trailer a couple of weeks ago... missing like 4 zerks. I am going to call Zieman. I hear they are pretty good to work with and should send out the parts I need.

inacreek · 04-25-2006, 03:41 PM

FYI, I would never grease the wheel bearings from a bearing buddy set up on my trailer. You will find that the grease will find its way out of the bearings the easiest way. That would be the inner grease seal. From there it will end up all over your electric trailer brakes. Before you need to spend more money, remove the wheels and repack the bearing the correct way or have some do it for $39 an axle. Cheaper in the long run. My .02. Hope this helps.

WWFan · 04-25-2006, 06:29 PM

inacreek:

First of all...welcome to iRV2! Hope you have a great time here...

If you're referring to Lincster's post, he doesn't have bearing buddies...our WW's suspension points have grease zerks on them. On my old WW, I did put bearing buddies on it and experienced EXACTLY what you said- I suspect WW, which had the trailer 2 weeks before our trip decided to put the 'ol air actuated grease gun to those babies and wa'la- I spent the first night of a 10 day vacation spending $1000 to have all my brakes re-done...it wasn't pleasant to say the least. Live and let learn!

Take care!

Sean

Hoverbug · 04-25-2006, 07:00 PM

Great PSA Sean. While we're all working on our rigs trying not to think about gas prices don't forget you water heaters. If you have a Surburban pull the anode and flush the tank. If you have an Atwood pull the plug and give it good flush. Don't put any water in your rig without a filter. You'll be glad later. Happy Trails!!

Pafixitman · 04-26-2006, 07:53 AM

Repacked all 4 of mine, cleaned, inspected and adjusted the brakes, replaced all 4 shocks (did not know I had 'em till I looked), added 2 new stab jacks, flushed the water system and replaced the bath sink faucet!

Will check the air pressure tomorrow night when I hitch up. Head out Friday after work for the 1st weekend of the season!

TQ 27 · 05-04-2006, 10:23 AM

I just repacked the bearings on my 24 ft Featherlite enclosed race trailer (Dexter Axles) I have had Bearing Buddies since new (98) The trailer has about 50,000 miles and this was the first time I have repacked the bearings. Every thing was in fine shape and the service wasn't required. As far as blowing out the grease seals, if you don't over grease the hub, there should be no problem.

WWFan · 05-04-2006, 04:13 PM

You're so right there TQ...trick is not to over-grease the hubs!

Sean

OCDUNE · 05-05-2006, 08:11 AM

You guys are referring to the Zirks on the shackles and suspension right? I thought I would tackle those this week, but I had 2 of the first 5 pop out with my lever grease gun. I ran out of grease in that gun so I switched to my smaller hand gun. Didn't get any more to pop out but I did have several that I couldn't force grease into. Oh, and I found another one was already missing. So much for an easy job. This is a 2001 that I bought this year, probably has never been greased.

Sooo anyone know where I can get some replacements? I assume I will need a new bolt that passes through the leaf spring right?

WWFan · 05-05-2006, 09:54 AM

OCDUNE:

Yes...the suspension parts are what I was primarily referring to. I had the same thing happen when I started trying to grease the zerks: the first one I couldn't get any grease in initially- the ball on the end of the zerk was frozen stuck- you have to tap it a little bit with a hammer to unfreeze it. And yes- you will also have a problem with some of them breaking out in the coupler of the gun- the only thing that you have to make sure of is to wipe them off good before shooting with grease.

As far as replacements, you should be able to get them anywhere- Home Depot, Lowes, etc, but I haven't had one out to see if it's a screw-in or the tap-in type- if you can get a wrench on it to remove it, then it's a screw-in type. Drive types don't have the hex. And you won't neccessarily need the entire bolt, unless it's worn. But if you do, a trailer supply house will have them and they're not that expensive (I see to recall the're about $2 a piece).

Good luck!

ParTheCourse · 05-07-2006, 01:49 AM

Several years ago I had the opportunity to watch the mechanic perform the annual New York state inspection on one of my vehicles. When he only pulled one wheel to inspect the brakes, I challenged him, how about the rest of them? He explained that the state only requires one wheel.

Since then I have paid to have all the wheels pulled for a complete look-see including repacking the bearings. In the case of the 5er, my dealer charges me $25.00 extra to do the entire job and I yank it around feeling a little more comfortable knowing that everything was at least checked in the past few months, same for the truck and our car.