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Old 02-22-2006, 08:35 PM   #57
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Here are most of the mods I've done to date on the WW LE model.

Cutting off and Shorting the sewer line:


Buford's Pole Holder Mounted:


How to Get Power to Buford's Pole:



Split vinyl tube protecting upper shelf cloth ledge:


Adding additional heavy duty support to pantry slide shelves (Purchased a Home Depot):


How to carry 20 foot sewer hose: Cut off the end of the stock 10' hose
carrier and then the larger hose curls perfectly into a 5 gal. bucket.


Coiled Fabric Heating Ducts Covered and Protected in front storage area:



Protect wiring where it contacts metal frame:


Make sure your brake wires are out of harm's way. Tie them up high or
they might end up being crushed between the axle and frame.


Adding another mounting location for the small table:


Adding Reading Lights Over Master Bed..... Where to run the wires from:






Protecting the WW wood photo-finish at door handles. It's easily damaged
and this is a high contact area, especially if the wife and kids have long fingernails.
I went to TAP plastics and got some heavy duty vinyl and cut it to size.



For those too cheap to install an air conditioner in the master bedroom:


Adding more support to sagging water tank crossmembers:


A shut off valve between the two 75 gallon water tanks enables you to fill only
the front tank...... if that is all you need to carry.



Adding more storage space below the bed by making it deeper. Also
added a bit of a slope for better sleeping. It's lower at the foot of the bed.


Made Ramp Door Cables attached to Stainless steel eye bolt and Nut at Ramp.


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Old 03-13-2006, 05:38 PM   #58
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OK...here goes some of mine....

4each 6-volt Trojan T105's:


Added a GE Supra Key Storage Unit in case we get locked out:


Added the FlashCube that allows you to use the marker lights & rear flashers when the TV is not hooked up:


Just added this one: a GREAT atomic clock with indoor temp & RH reading, outdoor temp, and of course- time and date:


Here's a website pic of the clock itself:


Addition of the 2000w external sound system:


And the external speaker connectors (Speakons):


The internal sound system that the TV and other items use indoors:


The inverter install: a Xantrex 3000w:


...and the switches inside the circuit breaker box:


...and the extra outlet I added so the CONverter is not on an inverted circuit:


...and the battery disconnect for the inverter:


The Tornado Black Tank Cleaner system:



The Polesandholders.com Flagpole install (one on each side of the ramp):


...and the new controller for the LiveWireWhips.com LED lights on top of the flagpoles:


Welll..that's enough for now. I also have shortened the sewer pipe, and done some of the other mods that others have done. I particularly want to look into the Fuel mod so I can run the genny off the 40gal tank.

Sean
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:50 AM   #59
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Nomad, none of your pic's seem to load. All I see is the header you wrote then a big space. Any help?
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Old 04-16-2006, 10:42 AM   #60
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People have posted about what to do with there hitch when bed space is necessary.

There is no need to worry about the weight or size of a hitch (actual weight, not towing capacity) and I will tell you why.

I have a short bed adjustable Husky Hitch. That thing is heavy and unbalanced to carry by yourself. I had welded some wheels to metal square tubing tracks. I would drop the hitch in the tracks, re-pin, and wheel the hitch down a ramp off of my truck. This is not the final answer though.

One day while camping I saw something that amazed me, and I can't believe I didn't think of this. Someone drove up with his 5er, pulled the hitch pin, raised his trailer, and drove off, with the hitch still on the trailer!!! No more breaking my back!! So now I leave mine on the trailer with the coupler pad locked. This keeps someone from removing the hitch. I leave the pins in my truck and will be fabricating a steel dowel rod to go into two of the mounting holes so one can't drive off with the whole trailer. Unless you can find a way to pad lock the pins in the hole, or just pad lock one mounting hole. I have it covered in the winter to keep it dry and from rusting. Just tuck the tarp under the trailer body between the king pin box and body so the rain runs over the tarp and not under. I will try to attach some pic's. Hope this helps!!!

So just make sure you get the right hitch for you towing applications.

TM Hitch storage
Hitch storage
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:08 AM   #61
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sjseng

The pictures load fine for me, you might want to check your browser settings. Otherwise someone here may have an idea what the problem is.

I remove my hitch by using an engine hoist and storing it in the garage when I need the truck bed. Whatever works.
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Old 04-17-2006, 05:43 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by sjseng:
People have posted about what to do with there hitch when bed space is necessary.

There is no need to worry about the weight or size of a hitch (actual weight, not towing capacity) and I will tell you why.

I have a short bed adjustable Husky Hitch. That thing is heavy and unbalanced to carry by yourself. I had welded some wheels to metal square tubing tracks. I would drop the hitch in the tracks, re-pin, and wheel the hitch down a ramp off of my truck. This is not the final answer though.

One day while camping I saw something that amazed me, and I can't believe I didn't think of this. Someone drove up with his 5er, pulled the hitch pin, raised his trailer, and drove off, with the hitch still on the trailer!!! No more breaking my back!! So now I leave mine on the trailer with the coupler pad locked. This keeps someone from removing the hitch. I leave the pins in my truck and will be fabricating a steel dowel rod to go into two of the mounting holes so one can't drive off with the whole trailer. Unless you can find a way to pad lock the pins in the hole, or just pad lock one mounting hole. I have it covered in the winter to keep it dry and from rusting. Just tuck the tarp under the trailer body between the king pin box and body so the rain runs over the tarp and not under. I will try to attach some pic's. Hope this helps!!!

So just make sure you get the right hitch for you towing applications.

TM Hitch storage
Hitch storage
Tyler:

I do the same thing...when I want to rid the bed of the hitch, I just leave it hooked up to the pin- makes it soooooooo much easier than trying to wrestle it out of the truck- THEN find some place to put it, making sure not to drop it on my foot!
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Old 05-07-2006, 01:39 PM   #63
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I got tired of moisture getting in behind the lens of my incandescent lights and corroding the bulb contacts so I installed some sealed LED clearance/marker lights.
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Old 05-10-2006, 08:59 AM   #64
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Hey gang. I know it has been a while, life has kind of snuck up on us.
I saw this thread and wanted to throw this out there on something I did before our last trip.

This is an exhaust extention for the gen-set.


This is coming out of the bottom threw the tailpipe.

This is the top exhausting over the roofline of the trailer.


I did this last weekend and took it out to O'neill Park for two nights. I was really impressed. It didn't make the gen-set go silent, which is what I was hoping for, but it did make a big improvement. It cut the noise level down quite a bit and I didn't have to smell fuses. In fact, I ran the gen-set until about 11:00pm the last night without my neighbors even knowing I had it on, and they were in a tent. I guess I can't complain about that.

But mods are not all we have been up to. Deb in prego again, we will be expecting number 2 sometime in August. Another girl. I have to keep trying for that boy.

Sam is growing like a weed.


As you can see, this is her by the camp fire eatting s'mores.

Alrightly, good to be back
Rod
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Old 05-10-2006, 09:15 AM   #65
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Gosh is it nice to see you back again Rod....
so Deb's preggo again!! Good stuff there Maynard! Sammy is looking a lot older than the last time!!

THIS mod is my next one- did you get the Camco unit for this, or did you just fab your own? I can't get past the $150+ price that CW has on it- FOR A PLASTIC PVC PIPE! But then again, I haven't been able to find any 1 1/2" double walled steel piping to replace it either (have to admit I haven't tried that hard yet).

As you know...we do alot of infield race stuff, and this needs to be on the top of my list- if not just for us, but our poor neighbors.

DesertFox1: Thanks much for the link on the LED's- I'm trying to find a suitable replacement for the 1003 bulbs that are in most of the 12v fixtures in our SLC. I'll puruse this site and see what they got...good one!

Sean
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:22 PM   #66
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Hey Sean, good to hear from you.

I fabbed this one in my shop with 1 1/2 inch steel tubing. I know it gets a little warm to the touch, but if you are dumb enough to be toughing exhaust...well, I don't think I need to say much more on that. I really didn't do much research on this mod because it seems preatty cut and dry. I did see the one in the CW catalog and once I saw the price I figger I could build a better mouse trap. Also, I didn't know that CWs was plastic! Is that right? I thought plastic and heat didn't really mix.
For this one I mitered the joint(instead of bending it) so I could keep it close to the side of the trailer, that way I could leave it on while it was parked at rhe side of my house. I saw the bend that the CW one had and thought it might stick out too far. I also cut it at about 3 feet up because I thought it might be too long to fit in the storage of my trailer. Then I used a rigid conduit coupler to connect the two pices, and a bungy cord threw an eye bolt on the top. Total price, $17.00, and that is a lot better that CWs $150. I used it all weekend without any worry or problems.

Rod
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:35 PM   #67
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Rod:

That's exactly what I want to do- fab my own- and yes- the Camco model that CW has is some sort of PVC plastic- prolly a whole $3.00 of it. I know they didn't spend a whole bunch on engineering. Maybe the box it comes in costs more than the product itself.

You know...I'm wondering if there's a Mfr out there that actually plumbs it up through the wall so it's always exhausting up above the coach. If I had my druthers, that's the mousetrap I'd like!
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:43 PM   #68
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My business partner suggested running it throught the wall, then I explained it was seal up, but that got me thinking why not? I mean other that the risk of fire and maybe producing too much heat in the wall, I guess it would be a solid idea. Maybe some builder might think to do that it the future, I dont want to be the one to buy that "trail and error" model. Heck, I think mine is bad enough sometimes.
The plastic thing still throws me. I wonder who that works. Anyone have any luck with that, please let me know.

Rod
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Old 05-23-2006, 07:21 PM   #69
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Here's a mod that I would highly recommend......MaxAir roof vent covers.

Sue bought them for me for Christmas from the great people at Rvupgrades.com and I just installed them.

Now there's no more worrying about the rain or wind and you can even leave your roof vents open while towing.



Wes
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Old 05-29-2006, 08:47 PM   #70
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Hey Wes,

Sorry you didn't make it out to Calnevore..... The roof vents look great....I may have to look at those....I have heard a few people say they really love them. I have been getting my trailer out every couple weeks...Just got back tonight from Smith Creek out by Austin NV. The trailer is doing fine. I still want to get out with you and the family on one of these weekends this summer. Hope all is well.

James
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