Photo Finish Cabinet Protection

[56Nomad]

Call me crazy..... but the photo finish wood grain on all the Weekend Warriors is
easy to damage. On our last WW, we wore the finish off on many of the cabinet
doors right at the knobs. That location is a high wear point which really looks
pretty crappy after a couple of years. We really use our toyhaulers......
put over 40,000 miles on our 2003 WW.

On the '06 models, they have handles instead of knobs, however after our
last three trips I notice the finish is chipping where the fingernails hit the
finish.

So I drove over to the plastic store and bought $20 worth of clear plastic
which I've cut to size and put it as backing behind the cabinet handles.
30 plus pieces........

It sure would be nice if WW went with real wood

[56Nomad]

Call me crazy..... but the photo finish wood grain on all the Weekend Warriors is
easy to damage. On our last WW, we wore the finish off on many of the cabinet
doors right at the knobs. That location is a high wear point which really looks
pretty crappy after a couple of years. We really use our toyhaulers......
put over 40,000 miles on our 2003 WW.

On the '06 models, they have handles instead of knobs, however after our
last three trips I notice the finish is chipping where the fingernails hit the
finish.

So I drove over to the plastic store and bought $20 worth of clear plastic
which I've cut to size and put it as backing behind the cabinet handles.
30 plus pieces........

It sure would be nice if WW went with real wood

[FatDog]

it not only works, it gives the cabinets a bit of pizzazz as well
classy job keeping the cabinets looking youthful

[56Nomad]

On that other forum it was suggested that
a solution might be to varathane the cabinet doors

[melon]

I think real wood is too heavy. Although, partical board it not all that light either. Great idea 56.

Rod

[WWFan]

Rod:

I second that emotion...real OAK is just about as heavy as you can get, so your solution, plus that of Howie's are real qood ones! How did you get the edges of your clear plastic to not look like they're cut out and wragged?

Sean

[56Nomad]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by WWFan:
How did you get the edges of your clear plastic to not look like they're cut out and wragged?
Sean </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sean,

I used a .030 poly vinyl not plexiglass, so I was able
to make sharp cuts with a box cutter knife and
a T-square.

Then made a sheet metal template for drilling out
the handle holes.

[WWFan]

Ahhhh.....that would make things alot easier! Thanks Howie!

[Grizwald2]

This is a great idea and something I want to do right from the get go. Thanks for enlightening me 56, especially with 3 women in the house with sharp fingernails. I'm always harping on them to watch opening the car doors so as not to scratch the paint on the inside of the latch.

Specifics please where do I buy this stuff?

Don

[56Nomad]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Grizwald2:
This is a great idea and something I want to do right from the get go. Thanks for enlightening me 56, especially with 3 women in the house with sharp fingernails. I'm always harping on them to watch opening the car doors so as not to scratch the paint on the inside of the latch.

Specifics please where do I buy this stuff?

Don </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi Don... I had drive over to San Jose to get the plastic sheet at : TAP Plastics

I wanted it thick enough to be rigid, but thin
enough to cut with a blade. If you have to use
a saw to cut it, then you gotta polish the edges, and that is too much work

[Grizwald2]

Thanks for sharing FD

Don