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Old 08-09-2011, 06:58 PM   #1
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Rv roof repair from inside RV

Hello,
Hello,
I just bought a 06 weekend warrior fifth wheel and it is in good condition other than the problem about to explain. The day after I bought it I noticed the very corner of the roof "spongy like" and could hear that the wood was rotten. It is a 2ft by 2 ft.(max) piece of wood that is "soft". The actual roof is in great condition just that the seams jointing the roof and front of trailer had developed a crack.

So hears the questions, Can I repair the roof inside the trailer by taking down the paneling from the inside? Or do I have to cut the top just to gain access?
THANKS
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:22 PM   #2
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I am not sure if they used aluminum or 1X2 support. I would think if you can access it from inside and not tear into the roof it would be better in the long run with less chance of a roof leak because you tore it apart. Since it sounds like it against the edge it should be easy to get to with out to much tearing apart. maybe a RV repair person will see the post and chime in.

Good luck.
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:26 PM   #3
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Thanks for the response! Yeah I don't know either about the frame but from the inside doesn't seem to have water damage and it's no really supporting an ac unit, if have to go from top thinking just to leave it....
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Old 08-10-2011, 02:17 PM   #4
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If the inside looks good, I would suggest leaving it alone since it would be hard to repair and still have it look good later. Instead, go in from above. Repairs there wouldn't be visible and will be much easier to do than from below. You may get lucky and have to replace only the decking and not any framing. Very minor rot on any wood framing can be repaired with epoxy compounds designed for the job. Using Eternabond on the seams will prevent leaks later if applied correctly.

Whatever you do, don't ignore it. Wood rot is like a cancer and will continue to spread over time unless you live in a bone dry climate.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:27 PM   #5
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This is what my 2006 WW looked like with a sqishy rear right corner. Pics tell the story. Enjoy. Took a weekend to fix. I don't think repairing from the inside would be fun at all.

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Old 08-11-2011, 12:17 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info!! Griz thanks for the awesome pics.. Hey how hard was it to take the top layer off?
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:12 AM   #7
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Great pix griz!
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Old 08-11-2011, 05:58 AM   #8
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Thats an awsome repair job.
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Old 08-11-2011, 09:15 AM   #9
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Well done, Griz, both the repair job and the documentation!
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonschool1 View Post
Thanks for the info!! Griz thanks for the awesome pics.. Hey how hard was it to take the top layer off?
Just take your time and be gentle. The rubber roof will already be separated where the soft spot is and where it is not it is glued down with spray adhesive. Just go slow and steady. Suggest you go to Home Depot and when buying your supplies pic up a couple boxes of stainless steel screws. Don't reuse the cheep rusty ones you pull out. Stainless is the way to go! When buttoning it back up use 3M UV 4000 Sealant, way better than the Dicor crap. Some people use Eternabond in a 4" wide strip across the whole seem. I might add that someday but once you do it will never come off. I was reluctant to do that, you never know for what reason you might need to get back in their in the future. You also notice that the roof is black right before I spray adhered the rubber roof back down. I added sealant for all the wood, I painted some regular black tar roof sealant on. (1 gal can from Home Depot)

I know it seems overwhelming but if you have basic home repair skills and patenice once you start its like a puzzle and as you go it will tell you what the next step needs to be. MAKE SURE THEIR IS NO CHANCE OF RAIN before you start or you will be.............

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Old 08-11-2011, 10:57 AM   #11
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You said the wood was rotten, the roof "Spongy" and that the roof was in great condition.

I"m wondering how that can be.

You need to inspect the roof again, There has to be a leak somewhere.
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:09 AM   #12
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You said the wood was rotten, the roof "Spongy" and that the roof was in great condition.

I"m wondering how that can be.

You need to inspect the roof again, There has to be a leak somewhere.
Look at my pics. He has the same problem I and many other WW owners have. His is on the front seam, mine was on the back. My roof is in perfect condition and his is too from what he said. Mine was a leak at the rear seam and was a 2ft section and his is on the front seam and is a 2ft section. Just because you have one leak and a little wood to replace does not mean the whole roof is bad. You need to read and think before assuming and posting, Of course there was a leak. That is why he posted and that is why I answered! Pics tell the story. Now he knows what it looks like under there and will have the knowledge to repair. Thats why we have these forums.......to help people

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Old 08-11-2011, 05:27 PM   #13
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Griz,
Awesome explanation of the whole process!! Thanks for answering the question about how the whole roof isnt bad. Haha hey one more question how did you get the seisms off? Thanks
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:15 PM   #14
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Hello All!!
This is my first post on this forum as I just found it and this is exactly what I was searching for. My 07 WW LE3305 has the same problem on the driver rear of my trailer. I need to do something about it. I think I may have let it go too long as I can feel some dry rot on the inside of the trailer as well.

Griz- Do you mind going into more detail as to what had to be taken off in order to get the roof off? Like what on the side had to be removed? How much work is it to remove the rear skirt? Do I have to remove the caulking in order to locate all the screws?

Thanks,
Mike
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