Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Toy Haulers Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-03-2006, 06:57 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 73
Just got back from a short new years trip to our local ocean harbor. First time towing our 04 WW FS2600 with the new 06 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4. We went with 3500 instead of the 2500 with hopes we could avoid air bags for the rear. Unfortunatley I still notice considerable sag on the tongue of the trailer and rear of the truck. Anyone with similar experiances ? Any advice appreciated.
Thanx,
Phil & Erin
__________________

__________________
RidgeTop is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-03-2006, 06:57 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 73
Just got back from a short new years trip to our local ocean harbor. First time towing our 04 WW FS2600 with the new 06 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4. We went with 3500 instead of the 2500 with hopes we could avoid air bags for the rear. Unfortunatley I still notice considerable sag on the tongue of the trailer and rear of the truck. Anyone with similar experiances ? Any advice appreciated.
Thanx,
Phil & Erin
__________________

__________________
RidgeTop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2006, 07:09 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
WWFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 3,479
Phil:

Thought the same thing about getting our KR, buuuuuutttt...when you put 4200# on 'er, she loves to squat. And then you put some weight on the truck, and Man!- you've got a problem.

Seriously, I've got airbags as the #1 item next on the list. Our 5vr is bad enough- try a tag, and I can see you've just got to do the same!

Take care!

Sean
__________________
http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/508/sigfile1.jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wwfan/sets/
WWFan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2006, 08:38 AM   #4
Moderator Emeritus
 
Vette Racer's Avatar


 
Oklahoma Boomers Club
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Sand Springs, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,823
Are you using weight distribution bars? As I understand TT type trailers, the bars when adjusted properly are suppose to equalize and transfer the weight forward on the tow vehicle and stop the rearend sag.
__________________
Tom
KE5NCP
2016 Silver Ram 3500 CC Dually, 2011 HitchHiker DA 349 RSB, 2014 Wrangler unlimited Rubicon
Vette Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2006, 10:04 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Hoverbug's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Klamath Falls, Oregon (The right side of the Cascades and home of Crater Lake)
Posts: 854
Thats a good point Tom. But rather than transfer weight forward, the proper use of a weight distributing hitch and bars will distribute the weight equally on all axel. I have a friend that upgraded from a F-150 to a F-350 thinking a weight distribution hitch would not be necessary to pull an 8,000# TT. Not!
__________________
Klamath Falls, Oregon:The Right Side Of The Cascades!
1990 Rexhall Airex 29I,Ford 460cid,Gear Vendor,Granning Tag Axel
'87 GMC Suburban 2500 W/454 CID
Hoverbug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2006, 10:11 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
diirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 349
I agree. I think you need to look at your WD configuration. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to get it sit level unless your truck is lifted.
__________________
Diirkhttp://smiley.onegreatguy.net/yay2.gif

2007 Rally site
diirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2006, 11:04 AM   #7
Member
 
RRC/AMC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Barstow Ca.
Posts: 78
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RidgeTop:
We went with 3500 instead of the 2500 with hopes we could avoid air bags for the rear. QUOTE]
The gap between the overloads and there contacts are to far away form each other. Thus causing it to squat quite a bit. Over on one of the Dodge website's there is talk of replacing the little bumpers on the contacts themselves and putting a longer energey suspension bump stop and closing the gap in there so they will make contact with minimal sag, but yet keeping a comfortable ride. You might look around for some info on that. or do what I did and add some Timbrens. gOOd luck...
__________________
04.5 Cummins

06 Rampage 387
RRC/AMC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2006, 01:49 PM   #8
Moderator Emeritus
 
Vette Racer's Avatar


 
Oklahoma Boomers Club
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Sand Springs, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,823
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Thats a good point Tom. But rather than transfer weight forward, the proper use of a weight distributing hitch and bars will distribute the weight equally on all axel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
You are correct HB, been awhile since I've thought about such things. But, bottom line, it should be able to be leveled out with the WD bars and correct tension as I remember.
__________________
Tom
KE5NCP
2016 Silver Ram 3500 CC Dually, 2011 HitchHiker DA 349 RSB, 2014 Wrangler unlimited Rubicon
Vette Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2006, 04:13 PM   #9
Moderator Emeritus
 
TXiceman's Avatar


 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Oklahoma Boomers Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Full Time, TX Home Base
Posts: 17,150
Blog Entries: 21
A 26' trialer definately needs a weight distributing type hitcch, even on a 3500 series truck. If the hitch and W/D bars are set up correctly, the truck will be level when towing.

Ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|Full-Time! - 2012 6.7L Ford Crew Cab Dually -2013 HitchHiker Champagne 38RLRSB - Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
TXiceman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2006, 09:15 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 73
We do have a WD hitch and bars. I am a little inexperianced with the system but I think I am cinching them down as tight as possible. Mabey I should take it down to the local dealer and make sure it's set up properly. I haven't changed any thing since I bought the trailer from a guy who was towing it with a new F-350 4x4. I did adjust the ball height could incorrect ball height be a cause ?
Thanx,
Phil
__________________
RidgeTop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2006, 10:39 AM   #11
Moderator in Memoriam
 
Kablewizard's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Mesa, AZ, USA
Posts: 2,361
Phil, the secret is not to make them tight. Its to use your camper tongue jack to bring the trailer to the right height after its connected to your truck, mine is 18" and my handle is 18" long . I raise the trailer to the hieght and then hook the chains. For us its four links from the end . Make sure the combination looks level , a slight tongue down is ok.
__________________
Jim (SSG US Army Ret.) and Cheri (TSG Phx ANG Ret.) Mesa, AZ
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 HD Mega Cab Diesel | 2005 Honda Goldwing | 2006 35' Dune Chaser 5th Wheel
Kablewizard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2006, 06:03 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 73
Great advice Kablewizard. I'll give it a shot next weekend and let you know how it went. From what i've been told to set the ball height you want to level the trailer on level ground and then measure the distance from the tongue to the ground. Then match the ball height on the truck. Would raising or lowering the ball height slightly help ?
Thanx,
Phil and Erin
__________________
RidgeTop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2006, 07:27 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
diirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 349
I would recommend that you take into account the amount of squat you get with the trailer hooked up. I did all the same measurements, then add 2" to the ball height to make up for how much it squats. You might also have to adjust the ball head angle. By adjusting the ball head angle back, it gives you more adjustability with the chain. I'm running 7 links with 5 remaining, the ball head angle almost all the way back. The truck and trailer sit almost perfectly level and the whole thing tows great.

Remember, when setting up the WD, you want to take measurements of the truck before and after. Measure the front and rear wheel height, then hook up and measure again. You should get the same amount of squat front and rear. If not, add another link and measure again.

The initial setup can be a little tedious, but once you have it figured out, it's pretty easy, and VERY worthwhile with how much it'll help out your towing.
__________________
Diirkhttp://smiley.onegreatguy.net/yay2.gif

2007 Rally site
diirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2006, 09:53 AM   #14
Junior Member
 
cmyfirepole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Las Vegas....baby!!
Posts: 5
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by diirk:
I would recommend that you take into account the amount of squat you get with the trailer hooked up. I did all the same measurements, then add 2" to the ball height to make up for how much it squats. You might also have to adjust the ball head angle. By adjusting the ball head angle back, it gives you more adjustability with the chain. I'm running 7 links with 5 remaining, the ball head angle almost all the way back. The truck and trailer sit almost perfectly level and the whole thing tows great.

Remember, when setting up the WD, you want to take measurements of the truck before and after. Measure the front and rear wheel height, then hook up and measure again. You should get the same amount of squat front and rear. If not, add another link and measure again.

The initial setup can be a little tedious, but once you have it figured out, it's pretty easy, and VERY worthwhile with how much it'll help out your towing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I did the same thing that Diirk said and have a pretty level ride with my 2500 and a 25' trailer. However, some dips gave me a little bounce so I added bags to help with that.
__________________

__________________
cmyfirepole is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Twang" from rear end gordonandpatti Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 5 05-19-2008 04:02 PM
RTS-II REAR END Micheal MH-General Discussions & Problems 2 02-13-2008 07:03 PM
What Chasis and Rear End Do I Have? Kevin H Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 6 07-02-2007 03:27 PM
Rear End Mod Big buford Toy Haulers Discussion 37 08-22-2005 08:24 PM
Two Rear End Sounds (on the RV) Retired and Happy Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 5 03-12-2005 01:42 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.