Sagging rear end

[RidgeTop]

Just got back from a short new years trip to our local ocean harbor. First time towing our 04 WW FS2600 with the new 06 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4. We went with 3500 instead of the 2500 with hopes we could avoid air bags for the rear. Unfortunatley I still notice considerable sag on the tongue of the trailer and rear of the truck. Anyone with similar experiances ? Any advice appreciated.
Thanx,
Phil & Erin

[RidgeTop]

Just got back from a short new years trip to our local ocean harbor. First time towing our 04 WW FS2600 with the new 06 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4. We went with 3500 instead of the 2500 with hopes we could avoid air bags for the rear. Unfortunatley I still notice considerable sag on the tongue of the trailer and rear of the truck. Anyone with similar experiances ? Any advice appreciated.
Thanx,
Phil & Erin

[WWFan]

Phil:

Thought the same thing about getting our KR, buuuuuutttt...when you put 4200# on 'er, she loves to squat. And then you put some weight on the truck, and Man!- you've got a problem.

Seriously, I've got airbags as the #1 item next on the list. Our 5vr is bad enough- try a tag, and I can see you've just got to do the same!

Take care!

Sean

[Vette Racer]

Are you using weight distribution bars? As I understand TT type trailers, the bars when adjusted properly are suppose to equalize and transfer the weight forward on the tow vehicle and stop the rearend sag.

[Hoverbug]

Thats a good point Tom. But rather than transfer weight forward, the proper use of a weight distributing hitch and bars will distribute the weight equally on all axel. I have a friend that upgraded from a F-150 to a F-350 thinking a weight distribution hitch would not be necessary to pull an 8,000# TT. Not!

[diirk]

I agree. I think you need to look at your WD configuration. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to get it sit level unless your truck is lifted.

[RRC/AMC]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RidgeTop:
We went with 3500 instead of the 2500 with hopes we could avoid air bags for the rear. QUOTE]
The gap between the overloads and there contacts are to far away form each other. Thus causing it to squat quite a bit. Over on one of the Dodge website's there is talk of replacing the little bumpers on the contacts themselves and putting a longer energey suspension bump stop and closing the gap in there so they will make contact with minimal sag, but yet keeping a comfortable ride. You might look around for some info on that. or do what I did and add some Timbrens. gOOd luck...

[Vette Racer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Thats a good point Tom. But rather than transfer weight forward, the proper use of a weight distributing hitch and bars will distribute the weight equally on all axel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
You are correct HB, been awhile since I've thought about such things. But, bottom line, it should be able to be leveled out with the WD bars and correct tension as I remember.

[TXiceman]

A 26' trialer definately needs a weight distributing type hitcch, even on a 3500 series truck. If the hitch and W/D bars are set up correctly, the truck will be level when towing.

Ken

[RidgeTop]

We do have a WD hitch and bars. I am a little inexperianced with the system but I think I am cinching them down as tight as possible. Mabey I should take it down to the local dealer and make sure it's set up properly. I haven't changed any thing since I bought the trailer from a guy who was towing it with a new F-350 4x4. I did adjust the ball height could incorrect ball height be a cause ?
Thanx,
Phil

[Kablewizard]

Phil, the secret is not to make them tight. Its to use your camper tongue jack to bring the trailer to the right height after its connected to your truck, mine is 18" and my handle is 18" long . I raise the trailer to the hieght and then hook the chains. For us its four links from the end . Make sure the combination looks level , a slight tongue down is ok.

[RidgeTop]

Great advice Kablewizard. I'll give it a shot next weekend and let you know how it went. From what i've been told to set the ball height you want to level the trailer on level ground and then measure the distance from the tongue to the ground. Then match the ball height on the truck. Would raising or lowering the ball height slightly help ?
Thanx,
Phil and Erin

[diirk]

I would recommend that you take into account the amount of squat you get with the trailer hooked up. I did all the same measurements, then add 2" to the ball height to make up for how much it squats. You might also have to adjust the ball head angle. By adjusting the ball head angle back, it gives you more adjustability with the chain. I'm running 7 links with 5 remaining, the ball head angle almost all the way back. The truck and trailer sit almost perfectly level and the whole thing tows great.

Remember, when setting up the WD, you want to take measurements of the truck before and after. Measure the front and rear wheel height, then hook up and measure again. You should get the same amount of squat front and rear. If not, add another link and measure again.

The initial setup can be a little tedious, but once you have it figured out, it's pretty easy, and VERY worthwhile with how much it'll help out your towing.

[cmyfirepole]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by diirk:
I would recommend that you take into account the amount of squat you get with the trailer hooked up. I did all the same measurements, then add 2" to the ball height to make up for how much it squats. You might also have to adjust the ball head angle. By adjusting the ball head angle back, it gives you more adjustability with the chain. I'm running 7 links with 5 remaining, the ball head angle almost all the way back. The truck and trailer sit almost perfectly level and the whole thing tows great.

Remember, when setting up the WD, you want to take measurements of the truck before and after. Measure the front and rear wheel height, then hook up and measure again. You should get the same amount of squat front and rear. If not, add another link and measure again.

The initial setup can be a little tedious, but once you have it figured out, it's pretty easy, and VERY worthwhile with how much it'll help out your towing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I did the same thing that Diirk said and have a pretty level ride with my 2500 and a 25' trailer. However, some dips gave me a little bounce so I added bags to help with that.