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Old 06-11-2018, 10:46 PM   #1
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Solar on Fuzion 427





Have the solar almost done, 810 watts right now, I have another 810 watts to go. Victron BlueSolar MPPT 150/35 - Solar Charge Controller. XAN806-1220 Xantrex Prowatt Sw2000 2000w True Sinewave Inverter, and 3 270 watt connected in series. Looks like I can route through the basement beside the vent pipe. I did get the bluetooth adapter for the charge controller, works great.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:49 AM   #2
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Looks awesome so far, good work!
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Old 06-16-2018, 09:44 AM   #3
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Looks good.

From the data sheet, that controller is rated for 35 amps going to the battery.

35 amps x 12 volts = around 400 watts.

The data sheet indicates 500 watts, probably because panels are rarely running full power.

Here is the data sheet.

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...-150-35-EN.pdf

I might be wrong, but I think that it is under sized for your goals.

If you wire your rig for 48 volt batteries instead:

35 amps x 48 volts = about 1600 watts

Then it can work. Otherwise you need at least 3, maybe 4 of them.

This is one of the reasons that we encourage our solar install customers to consider to run their setups as 24 or 48 volt battery banks - when practical.
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harryn View Post
Looks good.

From the data sheet, that controller is rated for 35 amps going to the battery.

35 amps x 12 volts = around 400 watts.

The data sheet indicates 500 watts, probably because panels are rarely running full power.

Here is the data sheet.

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...-150-35-EN.pdf

I might be wrong, but I think that it is under sized for your goals.

If you wire your rig for 48 volt batteries instead:

35 amps x 48 volts = about 1600 watts

Then it can work. Otherwise you need at least 3, maybe 4 of them.

This is one of the reasons that we encourage our solar install customers to consider to run their setups as 24 or 48 volt battery banks - when practical.
It rarely gets to 500 watts, it is always cloudy in the middle of the day in Colorado. Max watts is 810 in series, so figure 80% 648 max. Also there are a lot of trees so that is why I wired in series. So I guess if I am wasting anything at full power it would be around 148 watts and that doesn't happen too often. It probably has 500 watts for a 12 volt system because it charges above 12 volts
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Old 06-16-2018, 01:27 PM   #5
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It did get to 500 watts one day.

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Old 06-16-2018, 04:33 PM   #6
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Looks like it is working great.

I was thinking from your first post that you were planning another 800 watts, so that would take another controller.
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Old 06-17-2018, 09:08 AM   #7
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Looks like it is working great.

I was thinking from your first post that you were planning another 800 watts, so that would take another controller.
Yes, I was planning on putting a battery in the garage. I did get six of these solar panels off ebay. Just didn't want to buy too much too soon.

How do you do the 24 volt system? Can you put 4 battery's in series for charging and pull 12 volts off two of them? Or do you get the 24 volt inverter and just use 120 AC?

Just starting out, these Fuzion's drain the battery's fast, two days when we got it home so I had to do a solution for that. I already had the inverter.
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:47 PM   #8
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If you're not currently overloading your charge controller this month during good days with a high demand, you're probably good to go. Looking at the INEL site for my area, with flat mounted panels you get approximately 20 percent less power in the months of April or August in the northern Utah area than you will get in June. That pretty much mirrors what I get, and covers the months most folks get to do most of their camping. By December it's just sad, provided you actually get some sun and don't have snow on the panels.


I used the same inverter in my Bighorn, and have it powering the whole rig. When we turn the microwave on if the tv is running on satellite the drain on the batteries is around 180 amps, so we keep that to a minimum.


As you've mentioned, these larger fifth wheels can be quite the power hogs. The 18cf PolarMax Norcold draws a fair bit due to the fans in the freezer, refrigerator compartment and on the back. I also added two more fans in the back I use when the slide is on the sun side of the rig which draw almost an additional amp. If powered up I rarely see a draw of less than 5 amps on the batteries, quite a bit more with a couple banks of LED lights on, and of course it goes up more with the inverter switched on. You can't even recline the recliners, use the light over the stove/Bottom of microwave, or run the stove exhaust fan without AC power though which is why I added the solar. Otherwise I would need to run the generator pretty much every day even with 4gc batts.
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Old 06-18-2018, 11:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thiswebs4u View Post

How do you do the 24 volt system? Can you put 4 battery's in series for charging and pull 12 volts off two of them? Or do you get the 24 volt inverter and just use 120 AC?

.
I build and install 24 and 48 volt systems for RVs and conversion vans professionally, so perhaps that aspect helps.

As an example though, you look at what your main loads are:
- 12 volt
- 24 volt
- 120 volt ac

If there is a LOT of 120 volt demand, or you are using 12 / 24 volt compressor refrigerators, it makes sense to consider to move up to a higher voltage.

Step 1 - you have to be willing to install an inverter that matches the battery pack voltage. (12, 24, 48). If not, don't think about it.

Step 2 - 12 volt items are run from 24 - 13 volt or 48 - 13 volt DC- DC converters. The nice thing is that this gives rock solid 13 volts all of the time, regardless of pack SOC.

Usually it doesn't matter, but especially for diesel heaters and 12 volt compressor refrigerators, it is a big deal.

If you need more amps than a single converter can supply (roughly 300 watts ) just add more. They can be located local to the loads to reduce wire losses instead of running big heavy wires around or centrally.

Alternatively, make as many things 120 vac as possible.

It may or may not make sense for your application. A lot depends on if your existing inverter is able to keep up, or if you want to expand on what can be done.

For example, if you want to have 120 vac in all of the plugs, 100% of the time, an inverter can be placed in-line with the incoming power so that there is essentially no difference between plugged in, generator, or battery powered.

It is something that you have to really want vs something that is completely economics driven.
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Old 06-19-2018, 08:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harryn View Post
I build and install 24 and 48 volt systems for RVs and conversion vans professionally, so perhaps that aspect helps.

As an example though, you look at what your main loads are:
- 12 volt
- 24 volt
- 120 volt ac

If there is a LOT of 120 volt demand, or you are using 12 / 24 volt compressor refrigerators, it makes sense to consider to move up to a higher voltage.

Step 1 - you have to be willing to install an inverter that matches the battery pack voltage. (12, 24, 48). If not, don't think about it.

Step 2 - 12 volt items are run from 24 - 13 volt or 48 - 13 volt DC- DC converters. The nice thing is that this gives rock solid 13 volts all of the time, regardless of pack SOC.

Usually it doesn't matter, but especially for diesel heaters and 12 volt compressor refrigerators, it is a big deal.

If you need more amps than a single converter can supply (roughly 300 watts ) just add more. They can be located local to the loads to reduce wire losses instead of running big heavy wires around or centrally.

Alternatively, make as many things 120 vac as possible.

It may or may not make sense for your application. A lot depends on if your existing inverter is able to keep up, or if you want to expand on what can be done.

For example, if you want to have 120 vac in all of the plugs, 100% of the time, an inverter can be placed in-line with the incoming power so that there is essentially no difference between plugged in, generator, or battery powered.

It is something that you have to really want vs something that is completely economics driven.
Thanks, harryn, That clears up a lot. Have to wait on the back solar but now I know what to look for.
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