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Old 10-09-2017, 09:25 AM   #1
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Stress Fracture on Raptor 352TS

We bought a 2016 Raptor 352TS new from CampingWorld. The front left nose has developed about a 12" - 18" stress fracture from the corner of the bedroom slide toward the kingpin. I reported it to Keystone and took the camper to a local RV repair shop (I've given up on CampingWorld) and they are saying the method Keystone is giving them to repair the stress fracture is really a band-aid. I'm taking it in at the end of the month to see what the plan is for repair. Has anyone else had a similar situation? If so, how was your unit fixed?
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:10 PM   #2
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Someone Iím familiar with had a crack just like that on a different manufacturers unit also manufactured in 2016. The manufacturers first try at a fix was to install a relief cut (give the flex someplace to move). Crack came back. The fix involved removing the fiberglass siding which exposed the aluminum wall framing. That turned up some broken welds. I understand the broken welds were repaired and additional reinforcement was added. So far, so good as far as I am aware.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:56 AM   #3
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Stress Fracture

Thanks for the info. I hadn't thought about bad welds. I have a feeling the company is recommending the easier/low cost fix and the repair shop is telling them that's not going to do the job. When the camper is sitting on the front supports the crack is closed. When it's put on hitch you can actually see the crack expand a bit. We'll see how it plays out later this month when I take it in.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:30 AM   #4
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If your repair shop is willing, ask them to take photos and tell Keystone why the repair they are suggesting is insufficient. Worth a shot
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvgkid View Post
We bought a 2016 Raptor 352TS new from CampingWorld. The front left nose has developed about a 12" - 18" stress fracture from the corner of the bedroom slide toward the kingpin. I reported it to Keystone and took the camper to a local RV repair shop (I've given up on CampingWorld) and they are saying the method Keystone is giving them to repair the stress fracture is really a band-aid. I'm taking it in at the end of the month to see what the plan is for repair. Has anyone else had a similar situation? If so, how was your unit fixed?
I had similar cracking on my Everest. Something is probably broke or as others have said some welds let loose. Mine was welds. Fixed them myself and fashioned a lap patch. I used a #30 drill bit to stop drill the crack until I did the repair.

Because we often weigh our trailer I doubt it was caused from any sort of overload. The welds looked to weak for the area they were in so Iím just guessing they just gave-out. We traveled some really bad sections of highway during the time just before I noticed the crack.
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:00 AM   #6
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Stress Fracture

Thanks for all the feedback. We have already sent pictures to Keystone (prior to 1 year warranty expiration) and we will figure it out. The repair shop was badmouthing Lippert frames as not being all that well made and i've seen a lot of posts about how quickly (and with poor quality) they are turning out campers since sales are really hot.

The Raptor factory Pin Box does not have any shock absorber so I'm thinking if our next camper doesn't have something like a 5th Airborne or Mor Ride I'll buy one as replacement for the factory pin box.

We are also looking at a Montana 381TH so we'll see what the impact this issue has on trade value even though it should be a warranty fix by Keystone.
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:10 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the feedback. We have already sent pictures to Keystone (prior to 1 year warranty expiration) and we will figure it out. The repair shop was badmouthing Lippert frames as not being all that well made and i've seen a lot of posts about how quickly (and with poor quality) they are turning out campers since sales are really hot.

The Raptor factory Pin Box does not have any shock absorber so I'm thinking if our next camper doesn't have something like a 5th Airborne or Mor Ride I'll buy one as replacement for the factory pin box.

We are also looking at a Montana 381TH so we'll see what the impact this issue has on trade value even though it should be a warranty fix by Keystone.
I have a Montana 357tht which is the previous toyhauler to the model you are looking at. One month out of warranty a crack started at the bottom right of the garage door opening. No help from manufacturer at all.
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Old 10-23-2017, 02:36 PM   #8
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381TH

So we went ahead and bought the 381TH. For what it's worth, on the 2018 model, it has stickers all over it saying 3 year structural warranty. Hopefully we will not have to test that warranty. Looking forward to using the new camper this weekend in Asheville, NC.

By the way, there's nothing under the floor of the 381TH garage so I'm planing to drill (2) 1/2" holes in the floor to mount my WheelDock motorcycle chock. I think I just have to avoid the metal cross members. Hmmm...I wonder if that will void the warranty???
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Old 10-24-2017, 06:11 AM   #9
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We have a 2016 425 Raptor and had the exact same stress crack luckily we caught it a week before our warranty went out. We took it to colrain RV and they really went out of their way to help us solve this problem. The factory just wanted to do a simple fix. luckily colrain RV argued with them to do a better fix. They cut a section of the fiberglass away and had to add extra support and then replaced the fiberglass. So far it's ok. As far as the pin box, we upgraded to the air ride from Lippert just after we bought this 5th wheel.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:25 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by cvgkid View Post
So we went ahead and bought the 381TH. For what it's worth, on the 2018 model, it has stickers all over it saying 3 year structural warranty. Hopefully we will not have to test that warranty. Looking forward to using the new camper this weekend in Asheville, NC.

By the way, there's nothing under the floor of the 381TH garage so I'm planing to drill (2) 1/2" holes in the floor to mount my WheelDock motorcycle chock. I think I just have to avoid the metal cross members. Hmmm...I wonder if that will void the warranty???

Before you drill holes, check out the Condor wheel chocks. I use a freestanding one in my TH to transport my Goldwing. No issues, very secure, no unnecessary holes.
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:39 PM   #11
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Condor

I have been using a Condor for the last few years for my 2014 Ultra Limited. I agree the Condor keeps the bike secure but you must be stronger than me to rock a Goldwing out of that chock. I can get it done after a lot of rocking and applying the front brake but it's not pretty. The reason for the Wheel Dock is that none of that rocking is needed...the back of the chock is flat until you engage it to lock in your wheel. When unloading, just push the back down flat again and roll the bike out. My other option is to strap down the front of the Wheel Dock with tie downs. I could also install some etrack which I could use to strap it down...the etrack only requires some screws...no drilling though the floor.

Wheel Dock also has some plans on their site where you attach the chock to some 3/4" plywood and tie the plywood down with straps.

I'm not excited about drilling two 1/2" holes in the floor of the garage so I may try some other approaches before doing it.
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Old 10-26-2017, 12:29 PM   #12
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I have been using a Condor for the last few years for my 2014 Ultra Limited. I agree the Condor keeps the bike secure but you must be stronger than me to rock a Goldwing out of that chock. I can get it done after a lot of rocking and applying the front brake but it's not pretty. The reason for the Wheel Dock is that none of that rocking is needed...the back of the chock is flat until you engage it to lock in your wheel. When unloading, just push the back down flat again and roll the bike out. My other option is to strap down the front of the Wheel Dock with tie downs. I could also install some etrack which I could use to strap it down...the etrack only requires some screws...no drilling though the floor.

Wheel Dock also has some plans on their site where you attach the chock to some 3/4" plywood and tie the plywood down with straps.

I'm not excited about drilling two 1/2" holes in the floor of the garage so I may try some other approaches before doing it.

Yeah, if you donít have reverse on a Goldwing, it would be a mighty big job getting it out. That reverse is also nice for a controlled descent backing down the ramp.
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