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Old 04-03-2012, 02:27 PM   #15
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Pingel makes an excellent front wheel chock and the condor also offers a get off rocker so that you do not have to use the kick stand and then pull it upright. I use etrack which I bolted to the floor and used fender washers under the floor and welded the condor to etrack locks,and use 2 etrack rings to ratchet strap the bagger forward and down. I also use a ratchet strap to tie from the rear cross member to the ring to stop side to side rear movement. My raptor 3602's garage is also our family room so I want everything off the floor after I unload.

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Old 04-07-2012, 05:02 PM   #16
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Well I just came back from a month long trip 2300 miles and my bike never moved an inch

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Old 04-08-2012, 05:46 AM   #17
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I use a (removable) Condor wheelchock for my HD - cinch it down just enough to take the load to 4 points with tie down straps. The hauler area is a bedroom when the bike is out, hence the removable chock. (Edit) And, this is the 3rd application of using the Condor - I initially started using it with a trailer - all told, probably 9500 road miles without an issue.

Good luck!
Dan (Mack) (Former Outlaw owner, looking for a new ride!), w/2012 F150 FX4 and a 2012 Street Glide.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:17 AM   #18
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I use the Pingle removable chocks, Pingle rachet straps, and the Pingle tie-down loops around my lower triple tree for a solid, no scratch attachment. Tie the rear end down enough to keep it from walking sideways. Since it's a two-person job to do safely, I thought about trying the roll-in wheel chocks, but I can see some problems with the front wheel being locked in place while the bike moves side-to-side while strapping and especially un-strapping down. JMO. I don't need the additional weight either.
2007 K-Z 35 Toyhauler, 2006 Chev 2500HD Duramax, 2005 H-D Road King Classic, 2007 Mini-Schnauzer "Scooter"
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:56 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by BpK9Miami View Post
I use a (removable) Condor wheelchock for my HD - cinch it down just enough to take the load to 4 points with tie down straps. The hauler area is a bedroom when the bike is out, hence the removable chock. (Edit) And, this is the 3rd application of using the Condor - I initially started using it with a trailer - all told, probably 9500 road miles without an issue.

Good luck!

I would love to see a photo of how you rig this...
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:20 PM   #20
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I have the B&W Biker Bar for my HD Street Glide, pricey, but it is a real nice setup. I was limited on through the floor mounting locations in my Puma Unleashed 27sbu, this ended up 3" behind the sidewall of the fuel cell. I also run straps from the foot boards to tie downs on each side just to keep it from vibrating sideways and it has a hole that I put a clasp in to prevent accidental opening. Just got back from Arkansas and it didn't move a 1/8".

$350 is not bad considered what you would spend to repair bike and inside of trailer if one got loose

I'm going to install these flush mount bolts I made this weekend so I can remove it when I get to the site.

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Old 11-02-2012, 08:16 AM   #21
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Most of these points are excellent. I work seasonal for a motorcycle shop and haul a lot
of heavy motorcycles around. We have a straight truck with a hydraulic lift on the back
to load 4 at a time. The front chocks grasp the front tire, move forward as they are pushed on and secure it even more. I usually use the front forks or handlebars near the stem to strap down. A word on my personal toy hauler. I had ratcheted down fairly hard on the top of my upside down forks to travel 1000 plus miles. When I arrived I noticed one of my front fork seals had blown and was leaking oil. Was this coincidence or due to too much pressure? Not sure but now I go just tight enough to make it snug.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:36 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by DpDave View Post
I agree with Pete. I stick a couple of 2x4's under my Road King and cinch the straps down tightly enough that there is no movement.

I have had a problem in the past with the cheap straps pulling out slack while on the road, and let me tell you, it is no fun trying to right a bagger in an enclosed trailer by yourself... I now use a good quality ratchet strap, well over the required capacity.

I will also be installing Ultra-Tow Motorcycle Wheel Chock | Motorcycle Hauling Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment or a similar wheel chock before my next trip as well. Being a solo-er adds a new aspect to the challenge of strappijng a bike down.
2X. A good wheel chock ( the best one I have found is from Northern tool, $59) and block the frame underneath so you don't ruin the fork seals. If you don't block the frame and cinch it down tight you will have no front suspension after a few times. Also, buy the 2 loop end straps to wrap around the frame and connect the tie downs to. This insures the straps will hold and not scratch the bike. Tie down both the front and back with 4 straps.

Been doing it 48 years now....
Bill & Linda. If it doesn't move and should, WD-40 it. If it moves and shouldn't, duct tape it. F-350 dually, 40' Sunnybrook Titan toy hauler and custom Harley
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:52 PM   #23
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Use a front wheel chock or the bike can flip out from under the straps.
If you dont have a chock, use a strap to keep the tires from creeping sideways...and avoiding the damaging flip.
If you are hauling more than one bike, put a strap on the rear tire too or the rear of the bikes can creep against the next bike.

Damage can occure from falls AND contact vibration!

Best of luck!
Kim and Steve, Mustang LCDR (USCG Ret), Outlaw #1193
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:11 PM   #24
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Interesting replies. I'm in the motorcycle business and do many shows a year in the MH and trailer. Soon (once they build it) a toy hauler and I travel around the country doing about 20K miles a year. My bike (07 BMW RT) is my main means of transportation once I arrive at my location. I have had other bikes, V Strom, various Triumphs , and my wifes 200cc scooter. I've been doing this for 7 years, before that I towed many a race car. Here my recommendation for what it's worth.
First, never leave your bike in gear, never! Sometimes just the vibration will sometimes jam the trans in between gears. I've seen this happen several times, people arrive at their location and can't move their trans as it's stuck in gear. There's no reason at all to leave it in gear.
Use a wheel chock, any of the ones mentioned will work. it hold the wheel far better then a piece of wood.
Tie downs: Quality ratchet, I use ones that are rated for 1000lbs each with heavy duty soft ties.
Where to tie the bike down; Every bike is different. On my BMW I can tie it down using the lower triple tree which is unsprung weight. I can ratchet it really tight and the front suspension is still working with no load on the front shock. This is an ideal method of tyeing a bike down. You can't do this with very many bikes as BMW is the only bike I know that has this type of suspension. The other bikes I've had I always have tied to the lower triple tree and pulling moderately tight, collapsing the suspension about 50% or so and never collapsing it all of they way down.The back I also tie down. I can only tie the back down using "sprung" location so I ratchet pretty tight collapsing the suspension about 50%. I have never had a problem in the 140K miles that I have transport my bikes and that include a time when I was in accident when some jackass hit my trailer.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:18 PM   #25
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When Joan and I decided to go full-time we knew we wanted to take the bikes. We bought a 12' dual axle trailer previously rigged for dirt bikes and converted it for our street bikes. I moved the existing e-tracks to the front and rear of the the trailer floor. I added wheel chocks; off setting them so Joan's bike sits 2' further forward than mine. This gives me a little extra room when I need to move between the bikes while they're loaded in the trailer. This also allows me to enter the trailer from the side door without having to climb over one of the bikes. Besides the chocks and e-track I added 'floating' u-bolts through the floor (and around the trailer frame) on both sides of each bike located beside the bike seats. The u-bolts float so that when the bikes are out of the trailer they rest on the floor to reduce the tripping hazard. But when I need to strap I can pull them up about 2" to connect the straps. I load the bikes into the chocks; then use soft ties around the lower bike frame with heavy straps forward to the e-track; then I strap from the rear e-track through the rear wheel of each bike; then to top it off I strap across the seat to the floating u-bolts. The chocks keep the bikes from going forward or falling sideways; the front straps compress the suspension and keep the bike from going backwards; the rear straps keep the bike from going forward; and the center seat straps keep the bike from falling sideways and will keep the suspension compressed. The only direction that isn't doubly protected is backwards....but I don't expect the motorhome to accelerate so fast that this would be a concern.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:54 PM   #26
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Here's a few pics on how I tie my Streetglide down. Floor d-rings are far enough out from the bike a lot of suspension compression is not needed.
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:05 PM   #27
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Some good discussion. I use a Hydralift on my motorhome and they have excellent tie downs.
Tie Downs - Hydralift-USA
I also use the triple tree instead of risking the handle bars.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:52 PM   #28
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My MH has a crisier lift, I tie either my GW or my V-Star with al least 6 points and a wheel chock. One of the point is a handle bar tie, but it is mostly to align the bike while tighting the other points. I would not place too much stress on the bars, also I use a bar tie designed for that purpose, not something that is home made.

It really depends on the weight of the bike, if your are tieing a 400lbs bike it can be a little less secure than a 1000 lbs bike.

I agree with the statement to not have it in gear or on any of the stands, center or kick. Use the bar stap to align it veticallly then secure it with as many ties as you can get on it reasonably. Tie straps are cheap, matorcycle parts not so much.

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